512 BBi ignition problems

dont know JRV..I will check probably not, it is a late BBi...but I will check. Let you know this evening/tomorrow morning

I finally got the car down from the lift and checked it out...yes it does appear to have a crossover line between the two WURs. I am convinced that either the WUR on one side is stuck open or the FD is jammed...no amount of leaning on the fuel mixture screw seems to do much...it still runs rich on that one bank..I will try new plugs tomorrow..please give me your opinion David, JRV and anyone interested...this is driving me nuts.

>>yes it does appear to have a crossover line between the two WURs.<<

This is important. This balance Line equalizes System Pressure between both banks. If one WUR goes bad, both banks run poorly.

Now to go forward t is omportant to have the CO &amp; Hc numbers from the exhaust gas anf the Hg numbers of both banks at idle.

Regards, JRV

Hey

Just a few quick follow up questions..

On the passenger side FD, there are 2 lines running to the pass. side WUR (Is this in fact the WUR, or is a hybrid FPR?). One line is on the top of the FD, one on the bottom back side. The one on the top is the feed line to the WUR(s), and the second is a return line that controls pressure correct?

Now, the WUR has a T junction on the fuel lines. The pass. side FD feeds the one WUR, and the second WUR feeds from the T off the first one. Is this correct? And if so, what would be the best procedure for checking static fuel pressure between the FD, WUR(1) and WUR(2)?

Next set of questions involve the C0% and idle mixture. IIRC, you attach duel vac gages to a port on the manifold, one on each side. You then turn the idle mix screws (spring loaded, located in the center of the plenum correct?) back and forth until both sides are equalized. Is this the correct procedure? Is there an easily accessible port for this (HA!) on the plenum that is used for this procedure? Or will any vac line disconnect due?

Also, the idle mix. Does an 83 Euro 512BBi contain an O2 sensor? If not, what would be the recommended way of sampling the exhaust gas for determining rich/lean status? Something available for the "home user" so to speak. If the car wasn't a such a collecter piece, I'd just weld in a bung and hook up an O2 ;) I kept a mixture monitoring gage in my last car, V10+Turbos+Lean=not good.

While we're on the subject, what is the correct proceedure for adjusting the mix on the air meter/FD housing? On this car, there is only a brass (non spring loaded or anything) screw between the AM and the FD body, about dead center in the case. This screw is almost fully closed, with no resistance felt if it is turned counter-clockwise. Is this the adjustment screw? Or is it simply a cap, to which the hex screw (like the Lotus) is hidden deep inside the housing?

The boxer does have some bluish smoke from the pipes, and some oil around the rim as well. But, I think this is just a bit of oil from the rings being washed out over time, since it's running do darn rich. Sound right? I don't know think the valve seals could be leaking, but then again.. I'm new to Ferrari.

Thanks
James

James, welcome aboard.

all Boxers are euro, some stll have the conversion mods in place, some don't, but the tuning is essentialy the same.

start here at the link, then we'll fill in any blanks you may still have:

http://www.ferrari-talk.com/discus/m...tml?1054733418

JRV,

Thanks for the link. Do you have a recommendation for equipment to measure the CO%? Does the car have an O2 sensor from factory?

Also, is the screw on the AM/FD housing simply a "cover"? Hex screw is in deep in the housing? There is a special tool from bosch (3mm) for this adjustment correct?

Do you feel my assessment of the oil/smoke is correct? Washout of the rings due to all the problems with ultra-rich condition?

If the WURs are sticking, do you have a procedure for R&amp;R and cleaning?

Thanks a bunch!
James

James,

The O2 sensors are part of the conversion, no boxers came from the factory with O2 sensors. Your conversion package is a hybred KE system of sorts, there were a few so can't tell about yours without pics .

To measure the exhaust gas, any 2-4-5 gas analyzer will work. All readings must be taken pre-cat for tuning/diagnostic work.

That screw on the FD's is the sealing screw underneath of which is the setting screw. The upper screw must be removed for access and hole plugged while taking exhaust readings. Any long 3mm allen will work.

If running rich Boxers will smoke. Before overall condition can be determined the engine should first be tuned properly as to CO &amp; HC, Timing, Plugs, etc. before trying to second guess other issues.

The WUR's are really not adjustable at home, I personally even prefer new ones if they are out of spec which is determined by testing them with FS Gauges and comparing the pressure readings to the WSM specs.

Anything else {}?

Regards, JRV

Thanks a lot JRV

I had a feeling the screws were merely covers. I asked Coach to check his tonight earlier, but I guess that proves one theory was right heh.

If the car has O2s, I can take the readings from them correct?

I'll take my digicam over to his house next time, and get you some engine bay shots, but I think we're on the right track.

James

>>If the car has O2s, I can take the readings from them correct? <<

No...{}

when checking/setting, O2's should be disconnected and exhast gas readings taken with an Exhaust Gas Analyzer (you can cheat &amp; get close with a ColorTune) before the Cats. This is the only way to get real numbers to work with. And remember, LS exaust is RS FD Adjustment (the exaust crosses over).

Best, JRV

I may buy a CO tester, couldn't hurt to have one around. I know at some point I need to dive into the lotus and get her tuned up a bit.

Thanks for your help thus far JRV!


James