365BB restoration

I grinded the flange of bolt by grind sponge wounded around a drill.

I bonded a 3M sandpaper tightly around the squared lumber of aluminum and grinded the plane. It is possible to give a grind precision up to one-100th if I work carefully.

Great thread. I enjoy it a lot.

This thread is one of the best, ever.

Thanks a lot!

It is the air cleaner case that was the most troublesome in DIY cosmetic restoration of the engine. My car (#17903) is made in production of the 109th at the end of first series and the air cleaner case includes its cover is made by FRP (a cover is made by aluminum after the middle of production) .

This is the inside of air cleaner case when my car arrived from the U.K. As for the appearance, it was painted exaggerated spray thinly once, but a state of originality and FRP was good.



I asked for re-plating some parts which can disintegrate. Most are Uni-cro plating.

I take off flanges made by aluminum and the part number plate by rivet stopper. Under the plate is certainly the original painting. It is 100% mat black of lacquer.



I mask the whole part of FRP for preparation of blust cleaning..

I did blast by the resin media.



A state after blast cleaning.

Because I can not use a medicine such as paint remover for FRP, I whittle old coating away by sanding the surface. FRP seeme to have been non-appropriate, there were innumberable air bubble; therfore, I fill the polyester filler on the surface.



The sanding of polyester filler. Because air bubbles emerged from a bottom again and again, I had to repeat filling and sanding.

The cover which finished sanding.



A close-up of the FRP surface which finished sanding.

The plain flange which bent an aluminum board. I exfoliate the painting and do sanding, paint Zin-cro primer for adherent.



I mask it again in aluminum part and spray urethane surfacer. I did sanding the surface after making two coat and natural dry (for 48 hours) . I check close unevenness and air bubble and then revise it.