308 clutch

Hi Jrv, and all
On FC you mentioned a supplier you use for clutches, AW Imports, but did not include all the digits for the phone number. Would you mind posting that # again. Thanks-

If I do this job myself, I hope you don't mind me bugging you through this site as I progress? It doesn't look like the most difficult job, and I'm looking forward to learning more about my car. I just plan on going very slow and stopping when I reach a point I can't figure out.

Thanks again.

John

Hi John,

opps missed a digit.

AW Parts - 800-631-5589

ask for Frank, tell him AJ (yea I know but that's what he calls me {} reffered you.

Get the latest 4V/328 Clutch Kit. There was a Factory TSB in the mid 80's to use 4V PP's going forward in the older cars to reduce pedal pressure. Those older PP's being sold are from V12 Ferraris and "V12 Jags" and require heavy foot pressure.

BTW: people asking questions doesn't bother me at all. In fact that's what these resourses are all about. I like helping keep the cost down so that the enjoyment level will go up. The Old Saying goes, Ferraris in the Shop are NOT good advertisment, Ferraris Driving Around Are. {}

Hi JR,
Are you saying the later 4V 328 clutch will work on the early 308's like my '78?
Thanks, DJ

DJ,

yes they are exactly the same size.

The difference lies with the Fulcrum point. The Fulcrum was changed on the PP Spring to allow the same clamping force on the disc side, while requireing less pressure on the foot/cable side.

This update is 20 yrs old at this point, so it's a little surprising to me it's not more widely known. Guess some secrets are better kept than others.

Regards, JRV

Dang! Mine was replaced in the fall of 2001 but still retains the stiffness. My knee should wear out about the same time the clutch does. Guess I'll make the switch then.
Thanks, DJ

I bought the parts from Frank today, and hope to get started soon. He was a really nice guy. Very helpful.
Anyway- I was wondering if I need to buy that socket for the lower trans gear ($60)? I would hate to buy it for a single use. I've seen folks make then with a grinder- seems like a lot of touque to be put through a cut socket.
Are there other ways to get that nut off, or just buy the socket and forget about it?

Also- what sealant should be used on the transfer case mating? Does the bell-housing need sealant?
Any other areas need sealant, like the o-rings?
Thanks again.

John,

I have the tool, it does make it easier.

As far as sealant. I use High-Temp Copper Silicone on the Transfer Cover and also on the O-Rings as Lubricant so they don't get pinched and as insurance. Those are the only surfaces requiring any sealing.

Glad you liked Frank. He is very helpful imo. Not the worlds best expert, but honest and very reliable.

DJ,
Here's another way to lighten your clutch....
http://www.modena-motors.com/308%20Heavy%20Clutch.htm

David,

that's a nice update and I have complete respect for Tony, hope he'll visit here and chime in from time to time. I do however have a reason for not wholesalely reccomending that Mod. When Ferrari switched over to the contact vs freeplay system coincides with clutches lasting 10K miles. The reason is, because of the reverse levers, as the clutch wears it causes the TO to contact the PP in ever increasing amounts, essentialy like riding with ones foot on the clutch constantly. This constant pressure led/leads to premature wear on the disk. Of course the solution to this is simple "periodic adjusting", however "most" drivers wait until the overheating/damage to the disk has already been done before bringing it in for the adjustment to relieve the pressure and realign the pedals.

Of course if guys are aware of the additional service needed and are willing to have timely adjustments done, then it's a worth while update.

Regards, JRV

That's right, forgot your post on that over on Chat. Do you know which change makes the most differece? Sounds like the 328 clutch may be the way to go for the less "fastidious" owner.