308 tranny shifting

[ago]

My 308 is grinding going into 2nd ,3rd ,and 5th,sounds like I might need a overhaul.how hard is it to remove the tranny.?

[steve]

Before you go into pulling the engine/trans what are your symptons. How about a little history like how many miles on the car , how many miles on the clutch, has the clutch been replaced , is the clutch cable ok and lubricated , what fluid is in the gearbox , has it been changed recently , etc. So we need some more info. I also think that in order to remove the gearbox you need to pull the engine in the 308. Once this is done it is fairly easy to rework the transmission. Please a little more info. Thanks

[Racer86]

Steve is correct in asking those questions. It might just need the clutch adjusted

[consejero]

BEFORE YOU SPEND MONEY CHECK THE OBVIOUS FIRST!

I think everyone here is right when they recommend inspecting the clutch but there are other things that need to be inspected first.
Check the clutch slave cylinder. Make sure it depresses fully if not, bleed and or replace worn parts. Check the clutch master cylinder as well. Clutch and brake fluids can and will absorb water/air just by sitting around and chances are pretty good that unless you've had your car religiously serviced at the dealer since inception, it's probably running on the original oil. Also check the rubber hose for cracks and swelling when the clutch is depressed. Excessive swealling of the rubber hose will cause the slave cylinder to not depress fully as well as worn rubber seals on both the slave cylinder and the master cylinder.

Clutch issues normally cause grinding in first gear. Grinding in the other gears may infact be worn or missalignment of parts and worst case scenerio, worn synchros.

Try re-adjusting or at least inspecting the linkage underneath the car. There's an exposed portion of linkage between the body and the transmition, it's possible that the linkage could have hit something and bent. Also check for wear and loose bolts inside the car below the shifter. Ferrari shifting is significantly precise. Remove the shift gate/bracket (shiny part) and try shifting without it. If it stops grinding then it's out of adjustment somewhere.

The more you drive it with the gears grinding however the more damage you will do. Even if your problem is just the clutch, the continued grinding may infact cause the synchros to wear out and maybe even break a tooth or teeth on the gears.

I removed and overhauled my transmition when I rebuilt my engine a couple of years back. The procedures are easy however, getting parts is an expensive pain. Removing the transmition is pretty difficult. I haven't heard of a way to remove it without pulling the engine but I guess it's possible. For me, I had to remove the engine since it bolts directly on top of the tranny. You will need the Ferrari manuals though. Last I checked Nick of Forza Ferrari sells copies of them. My manual not only shows how to but also all the necessary specs etc. for rebuilding or reconditioning. Becarefull when dissasembling. There's these little ball bearings that are held in place by springs and in my case just grease. These can come loose and go all over the place.

Once you have the tranny out, it's easy to overhaul but time consuming. If you're removing the engine might as well overhaul everything. Trying to get new synchros will be extremely difficult/expensive however a clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing are not that difficult to find and relatively inexpensive by Ferrari standards. It's pretty typical to find stress cracks on the flywheel when replacing the pressure plate so be prepared to have it resurfaced as well when putting everything back together.

Good luck and hope this helps. If you have to rebuild your tranny email me and I'll try to help.
JR

[ago]

I am using red line ns oil,25000 miles on speedo,shifts perfict going into 4th up shift or down shift,also good going into 1st down shifting,

[ago]

Also clutch feels good ,new oil,no problem going into gear when stopped

[steve]

AGO has anyone touched the shifter linkage/adjustment? Also does it "grind" gears when you try to shift? My 1st impression is that there is a linkage adjustment that is slightly out. Shifting when the engine is off is usually not a problem it becomes a problem when the gear set starts to spin. Did you recently change the gear oil and did you add the syncro modifier to the oil. I also assume that you are having this problem AFTER the trans. is warm?

[tomdial]

Hi!
If you drain the warm trans oil, you can easily see whether it is a real problem. If you find it to be metal dark grey, it is going south.

If not, check the clutch. Put the car on a even surface, put it in first gear and let someone fully press the clutch pedal. Now try to push the car. If the effort is much more than with the gear box in neutral, disengage the clutch pedal 1/4 of an inch. If the car cant be pushed any more, it is the clutch or its cylinders.

If all of this is OK, let someone move the gear stick a little while you look at the linkage from underneath the car. I have had configurations, where a joint was worked out so far that a shift in 5th ended in 3rd.

Chris

[ago]

Is there a post on proper linkage setup,clutch seems OK. do some oils help worn syncros more than others,thanks to all who have replied.

[consejero]

Originally Posted by ago

Is there a post on proper linkage setup,clutch seems OK. do some oils help worn syncros more than others,thanks to all who have replied.

There's no post that I know of but the manual gives a brief "how to" It's not difficult, just do it! it helps if you have a buddy in the driver seat. Get under the car and look at it for a while, it will come to you :0)