328 clutch gear locking nut wonbt come off any tips

I am finally getting on with replacing the slipping clutch on my 328, and as usual on these cars (my experience anyway) it's not long before something doesn't play ball, the ring nut that holds on the lower transfer gear will not move, god only knows how much torque the so called ''expert mechanic'' put on this thing. I have the proper tool and have been using a three feet long bar to try and move it but no can do, does anyone have any clever tips ?
I am thinking of getting out the trusty Dremel (again !) to cut the nut off, but it is pretty thick and the bearing is sitting right behind, has anyone managed to cut one off ? Looks like either way I will need a replacement nut, I think the part number is 126853 am I right ?

Do you have a source for compressed air? I take them off with an impact gun.

If you don't have a good impact gun availible then cutting & then splitting the nut might be the only way. Before that though, you might try heating the nut with a propane torch to expand it and help loosen the locking forces involved.

I did have a quick try with a propane torch but didn't want to give it a lot of heat because of the bearing right behind, I may try and shield the bearing somehow and have another go, but I think cutting may have to be the final solution.

I'd be very careful heating the area, you might try a propane torch and use a spray bottle of water to cool everything around the nut to prevent and warping or damage.

I have seen nut splitters at Harbor Freight cheap less than $10 or you might find a good quality Snap On one also, cutting it off with a Dremel would take a while and you risk damaging the threads if you make a mistake.

You might try a really good pair of vise grips on the nut with a cheater bar with a little heat or possibly hitting the nut on the edge with a punch and hammer though it may stress the shaft.

I would use an O2/acet torch to heat the nut, on the side away from the bearing, and remove the nut with a pipe wrench. This will produce the most heat to the outside portion of the nut, very quickly, with less chance of heating the bearing. I've done this on my TR. I believe that a propane torch will heat too slowly, thus allowing heat to reach the bearing, by the time the nut is hot enough to remove.

Just my thoughts.

I am in 100% agreement with HenryK. Heat the snot out of the nut. Heat works for everything. It won't hurt a steel bearing. I would not cool some parts with water while heating other with a torch, as you run the risk of cracking aluminum. Just heat and torque. An impact gun will snap the tabs on your $140 special ring-nut tool. I assume, of course, that you have bent back the locking inner ring on the nut. (P.S. - you really have to heat the nut quite a bit - heat initially, and then intermittently apply torque to break loose, heat, torque, etc.)

Jim S.