365 BB Clutch Adjustment

You'd think I have this down to a science by now...with 20 gleefull year of ownership with this car, but noooo.

Here's the problem. It all started when I totally disassembled, rebuilt, replaced, replated all of the clutch adjustment linkage arms and pieces...I reassemble components as I remember them to be...and adjusted the clutch as I have down sooo many times before (without a hitch).

Here's the procedure that used to work...
1) Disconnect clutch cable from fulcrum arm.
2) Set TO bearing to PP clearance at 2mm, using the horizon adjuster.
3) Reconnect clutch cable and adjust cable adjuster for 5-6mm centerline offset from the top clevis pin to the bottom one (verifying that the offet plate hole lines up with the fulcrum arm.

Voila, I should be done...

However, now when I do this...and set on the clutch pedal and release...there is now substantial play in the clutch cable under the car, and the fulcrm arm in not back (to its orginal adjusted position. Note that with slight hand force, I can pull the arm back to it's proper position...

I'm totally at a loss here...
All clutch components are new, including the flywheel. The TO bearing moves freely on the transaxle snout...and the clutch arm moves freely in the tranaxle...

What am I missing here?

Picture prior to depressing clutch-Adj. looks good


After clutch depressed and released-adj. off and slack in clutch cable

David,

Did you remove the cable or just the linkage pieces?

From the photo it appears that the rod adjustment is all the way in, instead of all the way out as it would be in the case of a new clutch. Is that what I'm seeing? Have you tried lenghtening the adjuster?

Another thing just occured to me. It is possible to put the lever back on on the wrong spline of the cross shaft. Could this have happened?

In looking at the very last pic again, isn't the arm supposed to be striaght down with peddle pressure off?

Just a thought: In the first picture, if one follows the long axis through the center of the spring, it continues to the left side of the adjusting rod pin below. In the second picture, the axis is seen to the right of the pin.

With the clutch fully depressed, the axis, I believe should move so that it goes through the center of the pin, and not to the right of it.....if it goes to the right of the pin, then releasing the pedal will allow the axis to stay to the right, as seen in the second picture.

Does this make sense?

Just my .02 cents!!!!!!1

JR,
I did not remove the clutch cable from the car...It does move freely and appears to be in good condition.

All the linkage pieces you see were removed...cleaned, rebuilt, etc.

"Is it possible I put the clutch release lever on the wrong spline...Absolutely. Although I marked the shaft (with magic marker), the solvent used for cleaning wiped it off. Clearly a brain dead moment!

My WSM shows that the clutch release arm should be at approx 45 degrees, when the TO bearing is just touching the PP. Hmmm, if I lenghten the adjuster rod as you suggest, the overall geometry will centainly change...I didn't realize that the adjustment arm should be "extended" so to speak with new clutch components. I'll give that a try in the am.

How does the adjustable pivot, on the overcenter spring pivot come into play...?

Lots of variables here, for sure...

Appreciate yout help!

Regards,
David

Now for the solution: I may be wrong, so please bear with me.....this is analytical fun!!!!!

Depress the clutch and verify that the axis does NOT go past the center of the pin, thus to the right of it.

If it does, and I assume so, then the lever arm attached to the fork shaft should be moved slightly upward, maybe a spline or two. OR, the adjuster rod should be adjusted so that it brings in the axis of the spring.....if it doesn't disturb the 2 mm space between the TO bearing and the clutch.

Henry agree about the spring.

From the pics it appears that if the adjuster is lenghtened, it will push the spring back into the over center position where it's supposed to be.

>> the solvent used for cleaning wiped it off. <<

I center punch them with a small sharp punch, dead center of the split.

Oh, I love analytical fun...

Although I am an EE with minor in Mechanical Engineering, geometry and I never got along. Who would of thought after all these years I'd actually need it?

I suspect you're on the right path...If the adjuster rod length is changed and/or if I move the splined arm position, the TO bearing clearance will be affected. They both interact with one another...

I'll get someone over here tomorrow to photograph the postion of the arms with the clutch depressed.

Thanks for your input!

David

JRV: I think the adjuster should be shortened, and not lengthened. By lengthening, it will push the axis farther to the right......I believe, we want the axis to stay to the left....thus shortening.

Henry,

to me it looks like to the right (in the pic) is the direction the spring needs to go. The rod looks to be at it's shortest already, or close to it. I believe the spring goes from overcenter on one side to overcenter on the other as it travels it's arc.

But sometmes I get this stuff backwards unless it's up close and personel..;-).

Could be two problems, off a notch and wrong rod lenght?