3X8 Head retorque

Is it necessary to have the head bolts retorqued on the 3x8 series?

I MIGHT have a leaking head gasket and I was curious if this should be done ever or every 10k-20k?

Magnum,
That's a difficult question to answer, with certainty. My thoughts are that most head gaskets benefit from a re-torque after the first 1000 miles or so of running. Any minor seeping, that might be evident, would be eliminated, making the presumption that the head and block surfaces were clean and properly machined prior to the head gasket replacement.

Personally, I don't see any benefit in doing any additional re-torques after the initial one. If a head gasket seep is suspected after many miles of running, I doubt that a re-torque would stop any leaks...

Through the years, I've rebuilt several hundred different type of engines, mostly European...Always a retorque after 1000 miles, that's it.

Regards,
David

David,

Thanks for the info

Interesting, and I would like to hear more input on this subject. I know during the major service on my 328, my mechanic retorqed the head bolts. He said he does this on most if not all 308/328/Mondials as they can and do (according to him) get loose. He told me it is not terribly difficult, and worth the extra effort to ensure it is done correctly.

Dave,

I agree with you completely that it's not difficult to do...However, I question the reason as to why it would be needed, on an ongoing basis. During the initial break-in, the gasket does compress somewhat due to heat cycles. In that the head bolts are "in strech", and not at the yield point, the nuts should stay tight once the gasket has been compressed. I must admit I find it odd to find a "loose" head nut after the first service...

Appreciate your input. Thank you.


Regards,
David

IIRC, my mechanic said that in several instances he has put a torque wrench to the head bolts and check how tight they were and he could get over a quarter turn before they reached spec. Not all of them mind you, but two or three...it happened enough that he began the retorque process, (how ever that procedure is done), and now makes it a regular practice on the 308/328/Mondials, at approximately 30k intervals.

Someone over on Ferrarlist had his engine seize on his 328 (oil and coolant mixing) and found several of his head bolts loose. He ended up finding a used engine to replace it. I think it was Jim Cunningham.

I am about to pull the engine on my TR for a major service. I will be doing a valve adjustment procedure, during which I plan on checking the torque of the head bolts. I agree with David that this shouldn't be necessary, but I just can't help doing it, especially, when everything is so accessible......time is not money, for me. My car has 70K miles on it, with no problem......I will report should I find any loose head bolts.

If I wasn't doing the major, I would NOT remove things just to check the head torque figures.

BTW: Jeff Green just did his major service on his TR. Maybe he can comment on whether he checked the torque figures, and if any where off.

Hello to All: No I did not verify the torques as I was also under the impression it was not necessary. Anywhoo.....Henry, do you see where some of those head bolts are? Nasty locations, not easy to get at. Oh....I was mistaken about my water pump impeller spinning freely....don't know what I was thinking (or typing). I meant that it appeared like new and had no wobble or looseness. I now know this doesn't mean much.

Jeff,

I know....Superman, again. I've got the factory tool for checking/re-torquing those impossible to get at head bolts on the 4V engines. Drop me a note when you're ready...

Regards,
David

Ha Ha Ha....LOL...

You crack me up David! My car now has 33k miles on it, do you think it would be worth the trouble to do this procedure? Is that tool that funky bent/angled thing with a box end? And the torque wrench must be inserted at 90 degrees or at a right angle to that doohicky, to get an acurate measurement? Please forgive the scientific jargon.