83 QV Distributor Leak

Hey Guys,

How hard is it to fix a distributor oil leak? Not the gasket but the seal inside the distributor? It is as simple as pulling the oil seal out and putting the new one in?

About how long will it take? Any special tools?

TIA

It's easy, but this did not fix my leak (84qv).
I replaced the gasket and seal(3).
I'm thinking my leak is coming from the cam extension o-ring.
The extension is the piece that the ignition rotor goes on,
and also is the plug for the end of the cam.
I've ordered new o-rings and roll pins from FUK (that doesn't look nice!)
I'll keep you posted.

O-ring is #8 w/extension to the right.

Larry
Fremont, Ca.

thanks larry

please do!

On a side note, FUK does not look as bad a FoUK

Hi Sam,

Check the Technical Archives. I've posted an aricle on 328; your 308 will be very similar.

Carl

As I had said, replacing the seal & gasket did nothing to
slow down the distributor leak on my 308.

I suspected it was the o-ring on the cam extension. IT WAS!

I removed the dist cap, rotor, then the backing plate (2 6mm nuts, 1 bolt),
tapped the backing plate off with a block of wood & hammer
(put a rag under it, it will leak some oil).
I then clicked the starter a few times until I had clear access to the roll pin that holds the extension in, using a small drift punch, I removed the roll pin. The cam extension then slid out with the help of some smooth jaw vice grips. NOTE THE POSITION OF THE FLAT SPOT for reassembly.

The o-ring was hard, like plastic, and had shrunk so much it was actually smaller than the OD of the extension and broke when removed.


I replaced the o-ring with a generic one that was slightly larger than extension OD(so it would have some pre-load). I applied some non-hardening sealer putty used for sealing motorcycle crankcases in the groove and on the o-ring (don't over do it).


I then reinstalled the extension (positioning the flat like it was), I had a little trouble keeping it square to the cam and had to tap it loose and retry a few times, finally I drove it home, then used a small drift punch to align the roll pin hole while turning the extension (it turns pretty easy).

(see the putty/sealer barely oozing out)

I then tapped the roll pin in flush, reinstalled the backing plate, rotor & cap. The first time I removed the plate it came off completely clean and I reused the gasket with some contact cement type sealer (gasga-cinch), but when I removed it the next time the gasket tore. The roll pin can be reused with no problem.

Because you have to remove the backing plate to remove the cam extension, you should probably just replace the seal, gasket & o-ring all at the same time. The seal knocks out with a drift and a new one is easily installed with a socket & vice.

Now I just have to do the front distributor......

Larry Shultz
Fremont, California

Larry,

EXCELLENT POST!!!

It was the o-ring on my car as well.

That's a very detailed post!

Just one quick question... Ive been told that I ought to change my distributor cap as it is leaking electricity. (Im in England, but Ive got a US 1985 308 GTS QV). I was horrified to discover that these are £190 each (roughly $340). Anyone know of any cheap(er) alternatives??

Caps? I assume you tried Ferrari UK? I thought their price was closer to around $255...