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#12 (permalink) |
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I guess we need a check list to follow so that these same and simular problems can be solved following simular check lists layed out in methodical order, I'll throw out a list off the top of my head and others can chime in with add ons/mods until we have compiled a steadfast procedure that can be added below in the Tech Archives:
1- CO & HC readings, pre-cat & tweeking to spec as possible. 2- Spark Plugs conditions, and notations. 3- Fuel Pressures 4- Intake Leaks checks 5- Comparative Analysis of Data Gathered. The above doesn't fully address the ignition system condition as a whole but plug readings will give insight. Also doesn't address compressiom, but again insight into condition can be garnered thru comparitive analysis of data compiled. more input please. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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If you car is an 85' US Spec as you say, you have an AAV for high idle which has a vacuum line running from an adapter on the intake with the cold start injector bolted onto to it.
You say your AAV is working, well something isn't right as if it was working you would have a high idle of 2200-2500 rpm. Either it is stuck closed, or you have an obstruction in the line, or the lines are plugged off. Agree with everyone else you need to check the pressures. From what describe it could be many factors. Have you bothered to pull your CSI and see if it constantly sprays, even when engine is warm? Read up in your manual about the Warm Up Reg. and read your diag. carefully. To me it sounds like you could be having a problem with that. WUR can give all kinds of strange symptoms when not functioning properly. Go get those fuel pressures and report back. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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At long last, I have fuel pressures for my car. The cold pressure was 21 PSI, and the hot pressure was 53 PSI. Once the car was off, the pressure remained good well past 30 minutes. We also adjusted the CO and emissions to their proper level (CO was 3.5 before). We also found that the thermo sensor switch in the coolant tank was bad which may be the cold start issue. Algar Ferrari is mailing us a new one today. I should have it installed by tonight. With a little luck, all the problems should be fixed as to the hot start and cold start issues.
While the car was in the shop, I also flushed the radiator, changed the gear oil (AGIP Rotra LSX 75W/90), replaced the brake hoses (OEM Ferrari), flushed the brake fluid, changed the oil and filter (AGIP 10W-40 SYNT & UFI filter), changed the radiator fan switch (fans come on at a lower temp now - about 190 instead of 200+), and replaced the thermostat. Thanks again for your help. Ken |
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