Camshaft GT4 status and questions

During the my current major service I have taken the camshafts out. I have measured the cam lobes and the cams of the front bank are worn out of spec. Recommendation in this board was to give them to WebCam and have them hard-welded. I have talked to WebCam and they were very informative and helpful on the phone and prices are reasonable, so I will use them. But first I have to decide what exactly I want to do with the cams. One thing is to see whether the rear bank cams are within tolerance.

So my first question regarding the data in the WSM:
In the WSM there are two figures which I assume are valve lift in mm(inlet 8.949 exhaust 8.323). Are the figures in the WSM the valve lift at operating clearance, 0.5mm clearance or no clearance?

Once have found out this, I see three options:

Option 1: assuming two cams are within tolerance, send two cams to WebCam to get it hard-welded and ground to factory spec.
Pro: half cost
Con: I can not be sure whether all cams will have the same profile

Option 2: send all 4 cams to WebCam and have them repaired/re-ground to factory spec
Pro: all cams will have the same profile
Con: -

Option 3: send all 4 cams to WebCam and let them give it a "performance street" profile, like proposed on their website. It cam duration would be a 270/262 deg, compared to 260/254 deg stock. Valve lift increased by 0,2 mm on both cams. No figures given on overlap.
Pro: more peak power
Con:
- how much bottom end power will I loose?
- will carb jetting and ignition advance still fit?
- will the stress on the valves considerably increase? I have no idea about the condition of the valves (not even if they are still sodium filled ones or have been exchanged) and have decided not to take the heads off this year.

In order to find answers on these questions, I would very much appreciate your opinion and experiences.

So far I tend to option 2. What would you do?

Regards
Harry

Hi Harry,

I think Option #2 is minimun to insure all 4 cams end up with the exact same profiles and that they all have the same surface hardness, to insure they all will have the same life expectancy.

Option #3 is desirable for the above reasons and the added peformance since the time frame is the same to repair and the cost is close to the same. You get the same repair job with the bonus of additional performance.

The additional lift won't cause problems and I can't really see added stress as an issue unless you start regularly racing the car.

If you still have sodium valves they will be in there no matter which option you choose. So I would consider that a non-issue at this point.