Daytona Cam Cover Gaskets and O rings

Help!

I wanted to spruce up the engine bay in the Daytona, so I removed all the wrinkle painted pieces to repaint them. All the heat shields, cam covers and cam gear covers. I got all the parts stripped, repainted and looking pretty good.

Now for the reinstall..... easy, right? NO.

The large o rings that fit between the cam covers and cam gear covers are proving a nightmare. I was planning on reusing the gaskets and o rings as they were in good shape. But reinstalling the cam and cam gear covers with the O ring properly in its groove in the cam gear cover is proving pretty much impossible.

I have tried using a very thin metal shim placed between the two pieces to hold the O ring in place as the cam cover is slid down into position. Even though the shim is only .05 thick, it binds up the cam cover. Despite my best efforts to be careful, the "O" ring has sustained some damage. With some sealant (locktite 518 ? ) it may still be ok, but its marginal.

So, I have two problems. The O ring may need to be replaced and even if it is replaced I have no idea how to get these pieces installed without damaging the new one? Any ideas? Is there a magic trick to it?

Replacing the O rings seems to be a pretty massive undertaking. It would appear that to do so will require the disassembly of the complete timing gear and chain housing and all the timing assembly components. IS this right? My engine cleanup really was not intended to turn into an engine disassembly!

So.... any advice or tips?


Terry

Hey Terry,
Sounds like you're in a bit of trouble. The explanation given about the shim stock will work if you've got RTV on both sides. The thing to be very careful of is not to exert any side force on the chain cover studs, especially the rear one in the center. I've seen many Daytona timing cases cracked where the stud enters, as the case is very narrow there. Once cracked, it's an engine out job to repair the case by welding. Same applies to replacement of the four O-rings. They go behind the timing case, and getting that apart is best done with the engine out. I use black powder coating on these covers, as it turns out nicer and doesn't require a redo later. See photos.

>>The explanation given about the shim stock will work if you've got RTV on both sides. <<

Bill is exactly right...the rtv is used as lube and sealant at the same time. Also, the shim stock of choice is stainless in a thick enough grade to be grabbed with vice grips and extracted without tearing, by sliding back and forth and exerting upward pressure at the same time.
Definately not the easiest task but it IS THE WAY it's been done from the beggining.


ps: that crack looks ugly Bill!

JRV,
Yeah, I've run across this several times. Timing case is very narrow at the stud boss and sideways prying on the chain cover cracks em. Typical sign is heavy oil leak from up high runing down the timing case, No new cases are available, so it's engine out for a weld repair. The chain cover must be used as a guide during the repair to keep the stud alignment correct. Current overhaul had cracks on both sides of one stud, and one side on the oposite bank. Another neat find on this one was the chain tensioner. Cracked casting, nut and bolt severely damaged. Previous "mechanic" tried to loosen the nut with a long chisel. Another weld repair to fix it.