With the help of David, I was able to post some pics of the completed engine before it gets hidden away in the rear compartment. I would not mind having an extra for a coffee table!
Thanks, guys. I stripped and repainted everything after the top end was rebuilt. I am especially proud of the wrinkle job on the intakes - it looks 100% stock and is very tenatious after baking it. I had all the nuts/bolts and other metal parts replated in both yellow and clear zinc. If I keep on top of keeping it clean, I think the plating and overall cleanliness can be maintained - at least until it blows an oil line or something. The engine compartment has also been redone as well, so I am crossing my fingers that this thing will start after taking that much apart and replacing/rebulding half of it.
Jeff - I used VHT Universal Silver, which is a heat paint. I tested about 10 colors of various brands and that one came the closest. I used a new Maranello for color match, as my original intakes were stained and dulled from age. I can take take you through the process I came up with to do the manifolds. For the whole engine, it is important to use heat and solvent-resistent paint, otherwise it would be a mess after the first time it was steam cleaned or fuel/oil leaked on it.
Mitch - It clean enough for me - maybe not for a concours judge, but my car is a driver anyway. The red lettering is incorrect. It is supposed to be unpainted, but I was unable to bring up the correct sheen of the aluminum without making a mess, so left it painted for now. Should have taped it off....
You're engine looks great. Congrats on a major undertaking....!
I too used the VHT products on my BB engine, though I used the Natural Aluminum color. Once the engine came to temp...and cooled down, the lustre subsided slightly. Even two years later, she still looks great.
If I may, perhaps I can provide a word of experience-derived advice.
I had to change my thermostat last week. Diagnosis was pretty straight forward, especially using an Infra-Red temperature monitor on the thermostat housing, the radiator input and output ports, the engine temperature versus fan turn-on temp etc.
Here is the advice. I note that in picture number 3 the thermostat is not present. In picture number 4 you have it installed. When removing my thermostat I encountered great difficulty because the hoses were cut LONG, with each end abutting the thermostat housing directly. The hose clamp was 2 inches or more from the round-housing-body, thus, the extra length accomplishes nothing. HOWEVER, when trying to remove the thermostat, the extra length on each degree of freedom prevents sufficient movement to slide forward or aft to "pop" off one of the hoses. I had to deflect the thermostat housing sideways to provide enough movement of a hose away from the central housing to get it loose. I hope this is clear.
The net result is that I would provide just enough hose length to allow the hose-clamp to get good purchase on the metal tube of the thermostat, and no more.
Jim - Good advice. I just put the motor in the other day and think I have them cut a bit long, but it was not a issue as I had it a few extra inches rearward to hook up eveything near the firewall. Although the motor is now in position, it is not yet too late for me to detach one and se what kind of movement I have, adjusting if necessary. Since I have not replaced the thermostat, there is a good chance it will fail, so I would be in the same spot as you were last week. Sure would be nice to have a removable firewall.... Thanks!
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