308 Alternator Removal Procedu
308 Alternator Removal Procedure:
By: Verell Boaen
Alternator is removable after removing passenger side wheel & wheel well liner, then a few other things:
Next (sigh) drain coolant down enough ( About 3-4 gallons) so that you can undo the top end of the large coolant pipe that crosses diagonally in front of the alternator. Also loosten the a clamp on the bottom of the pipe just enough so it will turn in the hose, but not enough to get a massive leak. Rotate the pipe down until the section in front of the alternator is horizontal.
Remove the flat horizontal heat shield that lies on top of the exhaust in front of the sump & extends from the front of the sump forward under the alternator. It's mounted by 1 of the sump studs, the alternator pivot bracket, and a bracket to the top of an engine mount. (Removing this isn't absolutely necessary, but it gives you some badly needed extra space, and is one less source of a sharp edge.)
Removing the alternator bolts are a royal PITA.
WARNING: This procedure works, but generally you will make a blood sacrifice to the Ferrari Engineering team... It's also best done when there are no ladies or small children present, otherwise their 4-letter word vocabulary will be greatly expanded...
Remove the 3 nuts on the studs holding the alternator mounting bracket to the engine.
Remove the alternator adjustment bolt (See below).
Pivot the alternator around so you can get to & remove the alternator bracket by removing the pivot bolt & nut.
Remove the flat heat shield (or the venting cover depending on your model) from the back of the alternator.
Remove the battery cable & indicator wires from the alternator(you did disconnect the battery 1st didn't you).
Now you can remove the alternator by twisting it around until it squeezes out between the engine, over the exhaust manifold, & gas tank.
To remove or adjust the alternator tension adjusting bolt:
To hold the nut on the back end of the alternator tension adjusting bolt you have to:
1) Stick your hand holding a 17mm box end of a combination wrench up between the
forward (ie front of car) edge of the horizontal heatshield that runs along under the pulley end of the engine, and behind the rearward side of the vertical heatshield for the fwd exhaust manifold. The wrench goes on the nut 'backwards'
ie: the wrench is angled under the alternator & towards the outside of the car.
Turn the wrench so it jams against the exhaust manifold heatshield. It will generally stay jammed long enough for you to loosten the adjusting bolt with another wrench.
(It's almost impossible to do this with out scratching your arm or wrist on one
of the heat shield edges - the blood sacrifice...)
If you're lucky (fat chance) the wrench will stay on the nut until you've got the belt on & will swing down and jam itself against the alternator while you tighten the tensioning bolt again.
Tightening the alternator pivot bolt on re-assembly:
You have to use a socket on a long extension (10" - 12") to get to the nut for
the alternator pivot bolt. There's just enough room to get the wrench & socket
up beside the engine and then blindly poke the socket toward the alternator
until you get the socket onto the alternator nut.
The last time I pulled my alternator (for my timing bearing replacement), I
welded some pieces of 1/4" steel rod to the two nuts, locking them so they can't
turn.
BTW, to put tension on the belt while tightening the adjusting bolt, the best
I've come up is to slip an angle ended pry bar between the top of the alternator
and the cam cover. Put the corner of the angle up against the cam cover, the
tip of the bar on top of the alternator & then lift up on the bar, forcing the
alternator downwards against the belt.
Good luck...
(Message edited by f512m on August 17, 2004)
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