Finally got Voltage to the Cold Start Inj but after one second the V drops to 10V and it wonbt open Ideas

Ok guys. I finally got my CSI and TTS Voltage as they didn't have any before. Now I have 14V for the first second when turning the engine over but it drops to 10V right after and stays there while the starter is turning or while the key is in the III position. What could be causing this drop? Dirty connection at the starter? It also happens at the Cold Start Injector Fuse inside the car so it must be up stream. Is the CSI suppose to open only at 12V or should 10V be enough to open it? Thanks.

Rich,

The CSI is only supposed to spray for the 1-3 seconds while starter is turning then shut off, just as the fuel pump does, to prevent flooding in the case of a no start.

sounds like it's working properly now.

Rich,

the CSI sprays the mist into the Intake Housing simply to create a very rich primer shot of A/F mix...then the lower pressure of the WUR takes over after the engine is running.

I know but I tested it when cold and it didn't spray again but got 14V for a 1/2 second or maybe one second then dropped to 10V and it didn't spray.

Is it normal to see a drop to 10V during normal cranking?

>>Is it normal to see a drop to 10V during normal cranking? <<

I've never checked that....but it sounds possible if the starter is drawing current away from the circuit.

The FP relay will shut the pump down after 3-5 seconds no matter how long the starter is cranked, so I would suspect the voltage reading/feedback you are getting is why the diode replaced the fuse.

Maybe but I have the diode in place now. So it should be ok. It should be spraying but for some reason it isn't. I checked cont. from the G wire to the TTS and it is grounded and the white wire has the 14V-10V start up. It should spray. When I put 12V to the CSI by itself it atomized perfectly. A very nice mist. Oh well I will keep you posted. Thanks.

Rich,

check the ground &amp; the hot at the CSI and see what you get. Maybe the ground circut is bad?

then maybe try with a fuse instead of a diode?

also, I'm not sure where or how you are getting 14v's, instead of 12v's ?

Beats me. Ok I got it to WORK!!!!!!!!!!!! YAAAAAA!!!!! I feel good. I checked continuity between the ground for the CSI that the TTS feeds it. It was fine by my Multi-Meter, showed a closed circuit and I could ground it in various parts of the engine and it was still closed and it would beep. I thought well, I will make a ground and put it in the rear of the harness for the CSI and then connect it back up and see if it sprays. I turned the key and it Sprayed just like it was suppose to.
Now I am not sure if the where the problem is in the ground (green wire from the TTS to the CSI). Maybe in the TTS however all resist. values check out from specs in the WSM or maybe somewhere in the wire. What is strange is that my Multi-meter shows continuity between the wires and no break.
I am very very excited. Persistance definitely paid off. I appreciate everyones help on this matter.
JRV you are 100% correct some part of the ground isn't correct in the circuit. Not sure about the 14Vs but that is what I get when first cranking. Then it drops. Once the engine fires and is running it levels off to 13.34V.
Now to just fine out where the bad connection is or if it is in the TTS. Thanks Again.

WHHHOOOOOOOOO HHOOOOOOOOO!!!

Congrats man !!!

Remember that the ground is made via the threads of the thermo time switch, sometimes loosening and retightening will produce a stronger grounding. If not just replace the switch, it is inexpensive.
The secret to electrics? understand the system and how it works, then check the ground, then the power track. Nearly always the basics turn out to be at fault, when everything is checked then go through 1) sensors 2) wiring continuity 3) control unit.

glad you are getting there, it is good training!

brian