Has anyone installed a Boxer clutch

Great Info.

Seems their fix is the same as I suggested.

I guess I should mention 'a trick' when fasteners are too long and one fears they may come loose, the nut can be completely removed in some cases and the overhang peened to prevent backing out or in extreme cases (like Rod Bolts on some extreme Turbo Motors) the bolt tips can be welded then ground almost flat (leaving some weld) preventing a bolt from backing out or loosening.

Thanks for the Tips...I'm sure this knowledge will come in handy for others down the line.

Regards, JRV

JRV: In order to remove the fork shaft in the bell housing, I had to grind, then drill out the two bolts......even heat wouldn't work. I am soaking the bell housing in solvent over night to free up the bearings.......it seems that the clutch dust, over time, got into the bearings and caused them to become stiff. I will use graphite grease for these 3 bearings.

Interestingly the holes, and studs used, are exactly 0.250 inches. I plan on just using 1/4 inch bolts, with nuts and washers......I will then grind them to a thin size, and lube them with anti-sieze.......what are your thoughts?

What grease would you use to lube the throw-out bearing shaft? I don't want to soak the bearing in solvent, for obvious reasons....I need a grease that will stay thick, and not get onto the clutch discs.

Thanks.

Henryk,

on the bolts, why anti-sieze? you should never likely revisit in 20 yrs.

on the TO Sleeve & Internal TO Race I use graphite also, not a whole lot, but a nice coat. Many new TO bearings (from other makes) come with a solid dry graphite ring internally that rides on the sleeve.