Steering feel wheel offsets and scrub radius may be sleep provoking for some

Again, many thanks - I've now started a notebook writing all this down, and am off to buy a pyrometer.
For my driving (mostly street and trips), the best tires ended up being Michelin Pilot Sport a/s to cope with wx changes back in DC (225/50 and 245/45 -17).

I did dig through the internet and did come up with stock settings to compare:

Dino 246
scrub radius ~2"
front camber 0 - 0'15"
front toe-in 1.5 - 3.1mm
front caster 4
rear camber -0'50" to -1'15"
rear toe 2 - 4 mm

308GT/4
scrub radius ~ 3"
front camber 0'10" - 0'30"
front toe-in 1 - 3 mm
front caster 4
rear camber -1'20" to -1'40"
rear toe 2 - 4 mm

Mondial 3.2
Scrub radius: near zero (+/- couple mm)
front camber -0'20" - 0'40"
front toe-in 1.5 - 2.5mm
front caster 4
rear camber - 1'20" to -1'40"
rear toe 2 - 3 mm

Menditto 3.2
front camber -1.5
front toe .14'
front caster 6.4
rear camber -2.2
rear toe .2'
running rear wheel spacers

Will begin working with what I have over the next weeks and determine baselines, and get a better idea what I'm looking for and begin getting temps.

My many thanks. This is part of the fun (at least to me) of having this car.

best
rt

RTurner: Be sure to get a probe tipped pyrometer. The probe tip is inserted into the hot rubber to read the interior rubber temperature (as the surface cools rapidly). The IR pyrometers are not as accurate due to the speed of rubber cooling down after a run. I got mine through Longacre.

Many great points here! As noted, there are differences between track setup and road use. Having done many mods to the Euro spec 1985 308 GTS here... Have come to the conclusion that the stock suspension of the 308 stinks. It is too soft and not adjustable and the car, frankly, sits too high anyway. Went with Nick's dual adjustable shocks and uprated springs as seen at http://www.nicksforzaferrari.com/for...ebsite1005.htm with 300 lbs front / 250 rear (stock is 178/187).

Alas, forget the exact alignment settings, but it was a touch more aggressive than stock for better cornering. And FULLY agree about the advice from others about lowering the car and CORNER WEIGHTING IT (wet, your weight in the driver's seat and at least 1/2 tank of gas). Also agree that suspension tuning also involves the tires and air pressure.

Lastly, we have your driving style/preference... another variable in the mix.

Enjoy the Drive,

Steven R. Rochlin

See pic. FYI: these 16-inch 7/8 inch rims and Kumho tires will be replaced tomorrow with Kinesis K27 17-ich 8/9 and Mich Pilot Sport PS2 rubber.

MY opinion on comparing this alignment to the 3.2:: observations:

Menditto 3.2
front camber -1.5 .............Added just over 1.0 d to negative camber
front toe .14' ................set toe to minimum negative
front caster 6.4 ..............added caster
rear camber -2.2 ..............added exactly 1.0 to minimum camber
rear toe .2' ..................set toe to miniimum
running rear wheel spacers

The added caster enhances high speed straight line stability; this also increases the steering effort. The other parameters can be set to balance this overstability (not wanting to rotate).

Adding 1 degree camber to both ends increases grip which increases the ability of the car to accelerate in yaw (rotate). Adding just a touch more to the front moves the balance slightly towards oversteer (or nullifies some understeer).

Running the toe(s) at minimum makes the dead zone of straight line tracking smaller, enabling both quick steering responce and wander.

This should be a pretty lively car to drive, maybe not so confidence inspiring as stock, but in the hands of an expert somewhat more capable than the stock setting. In the hands of a novice some interesting vehicular dynamics can sneek up on you.

Mitch
Brilliant analysis - very instructive. Am checking with Longacre and shopping around this weekend.
Many thanks!!
best
rt