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#1 (permalink) |
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After putting the engine in the car, I hooked up all of the water lines......filled with antifreeze. Using a coolant tester, I started to apply some pressure. I saw a couple of leaks, tightened them down, and OK. I increased the pressure, and at about 10 lbs, I saw a leak from the front curved large hose (from the water pump). As I tightened it up, all of a sudden, it really poured out!!!!! It seems that tightening the clamp sort of slipped the hose partially off the engine (water pump outlet). Should the clamp be RIGHT up against the engine?
I did buy a new hose, since the old one had a crack in it. It seems that the new hose is "slippery"........it appears more smooth, in texture. How tight should these hoses be? I generally tighten hoses with a screwdriver......I try to avoid a ratchet, due to the fact, it is too easy to over-tighten, and cut the hose with the clamp. Is there a "proper" type clamp for this location? Access is tight, so I removed the intake plenums......so I can see any leaks of all the coolant hoses I replaced on the engine. I am now trying to remove the A/C compressor......damn thing didn't work anyway.......I was going to get it charged up. This would allow more reasonable access to the other hoses. Right now, a leak free coolant system is more important to me, than the A/C. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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The new hoses arre tending to be supplied in silicone from many places, they will appear much smoother, they are also much more likely to "slide" under pressure from the clamp. When we install any hose, our policy has always been to use a little aviation sealer on the fitting, this both helps seal and stop tendency for the hose to distort and slide out. Do not position the clamp too near the end of the hose, it must also be square to the hose end, and it can be adequately tightened with a screwdriver. Oh, and it is a bear to replace that hose!
Good luck, Brian |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Henry,
Here's the product Brian is referring to: Form-a-Gasket #3 (Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant) Product ID : 3D - Category : Shop Supplies - Permatex Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant Slow drying, non-hardening brush-top sealant approved for use in aviation as well as automotive applications. Temperature range -65°F to 400°F; resists gasoline, oil and grease. Suggested Applications: Close-fitting machined surfaces, sealing hoses, solid gasket dressing PDF Product Sheet: http://ken-co.com/permatex/aviation-gasket.pdf ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Hi Henry...sorry to hear about the leak. When I replaced that hose on my TR I went to Auto-Zone and looked through their stock one by one, till I found a hose that had a section of the proper shape. I then paid a whopping $8 and cut out the section I needed that had the proper angle. The clamp towards the engine must be very close to the cam belt cover, and squarely installed. I use a small ratchet and some long extensions to get a small socket on the clamp, working from underneath the car. It is a pain though. Can't wait till that ol'e TR of yours is back on the road again.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Thanks guys for all your help.
I bought some of the aviation sealer at NAPA, today.........this evening I took off, and resealed all the coolant tubes laying on the engine. Now I will replace all the short sections, located on the firewall tubing.........there are about 9 of them..........ain't this fun????????? Jeff: Do you have the Auto-Zone part number for that hose you bought? Thanks |
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#7 (permalink) |
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I removed all the water coolant hoses, and re-sealed them, using the aviation sealer. After applying 5 psi pressure, I opened up the 3 bleeder screws........no problem. I then went ot 10 lbs pressure, and still no problem.
Overall, I used about 4 gallons of anti-freeze. I will let the aviation sealer cure, for a couple of days, before I go to the max........15 psi. I hope to have this car running, by the end of July. There are other things I still have to do to it. |
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