TR majorstuds and nuts

While removing nuts from various parts, I am finding that often enough, some studs come out with the nut "frozen" on. I assume that I should take these apart and re-insert the stud properly. Also, on several studs the threaded portion is rather rusty.

I am thinking of running a die over the studs, and a tap through the nuts, but am wondering if I will make them too "clean".......meaning that the die and tap may remove more than I want.....which would result in a "loose" fitting.

Or do I just brush clean the studs?

It does not matter especially if you are talking about the many 8x 1.25 nuts and studs. If you really want to be picky just order a bunch of studs and nuts of various sizes from MMS and just replace them as a matter of course.

Henry: I would just brush the studs. For my car I'm gonna buy new nuts (why do I laugh when I type that....?) to go along with the fanatical and anal engine detailing that I'm doing. My copper sealing washers arrived this afternoon - less than 24hrs from when I ordered them! I just couldn't believe it! But back to the studs and nuts issue, I guess I'm lucky as I didn't have any trouble with any fasteners on my car.

Gents:

FYI, the 6mm studs that are used to secure the valve covers are one of the few deals in OE Ferrari parts bins. I replaced all of them on my car...and they were a whopping 37 cents each from Algar.

Got to do some non-car work tonight...

Later,
David

Bob: Who is MMS?

Jeff: I guess that that is the difference between a 30K and a 70K car!!! It seems that most of the engine is dry.....where it is the driest, there the nuts are the hardest. I am removing the headers.....had to torch one nut off! Maybe I will get rid of the shielding.....what do you think?

I ordered a Heli-coil set, and a metric tap and die set......I am all set!!!!!!!

I nicked the edges of some of the cam lobes. This was because I removed the shims, to measure, and didn't put them back....then I turned the engine to get at other shims. I had to remove the cams on one side. It sure seems that the cam lobes are soft. I will just file the edges, VERY carefully. On the other side, I will have to replace with a proper shim, before I move on to the next cam lobe.

I must seperate the engine block from the trans.....that is because the broken bolt, and stripped thread, are on the front engine cover. You will definitely be done before I am.

Good luck!!!!!!!!!!!

Isn't this FUN???????????/

Yeah....I'm having a blast too. My fingers are raw and blistered from scrubbing the fuel lines. I tried the yellowish anodizing spray but the results didn't look too good - darn! I even tried fogging a gold and the yellow together and this produced a good result exactly matching zinc plating. But I couldn't duplicate the technique consistently....it was then that I invented a few new cuss words. I will work through the night tonight getting everything finished and loosely assembled before I forget where everything goes, then move it all out into the shop. Gotta make room for some guests tomorrow night, some friends are coming over to watch the race with me live! I'm getting pretty ansy about it. The boys in red had better do good!

Are you sure there's no way to remove the broken bolt other than seperating the motor and trans? Is it a bolt or stud?

One bolt has wrecked the threads in the cover.....another bolt broke with most of it still in the cover. In order to machine it at exactly 90 degrees, I will have to seperate the block. Also, I nicked the water housing, trying to get the inner plate off.....will have to weld, and regrind. No other way to do this without seperating.

I already removed the clutch and flywheel.....will need a new throw-out bearing.

The FUN never ends!!!!!!!!!

Henry,

MMS:
http://www.metricmcc.com/

Separating the engine from the transaxle is not big deal...27 nuts, I believe plus two hidden bolts at the rear of the bell housing. The bolt thread up into the block from the transaxle. You'll need the transaxle to case o-rings...and a tube of Permatex Ultra-Gray sealant for reassembly. On and off, excluding stud repair, figure about 1.5 hours. It is much easier to reinstall with a helper, guiding the studs back over the holes.

Regards,
David

David,

You mentioned metricmcc before. I ordered, and recieved their catalog yesterday.....didn't know it was MMS.....Thanks.

I removed the flywheel, and found those 2 nuts that you are referring to. I will pull the block with an engine hoist. Actually this is fun!

I removed the left side exhaust......wish I would have done it while the car was still on the lift.....now I am on my knees.

On this side I couldn't remove one block to trans nut.....couldn't get the box end wrench all the way on the nut......I will grind it off, and then grind excess wall to make room for a box end.

Tomorrow, I will remove the right side headers, etc, and then seperate.

Is there anything that is connected internally between the block and transmission?

Thanks again.

Henry,

Some of the nuts are a bit tough to get a wrench on, as you have found. Don't forget about the stud that goes through the LHS diff cover. This is one of the longest studs, and care should be exercised when pulling and reinstalling the engine, as this stud can be damaged. The engine can easily jam while trying to pull it off the transaxle...so try to pull up and as level as possible. On the 365BB, there is nothing internally connected...though it's a good idea to drain the oil first. On the dry sump cars, I'm not sure if there are any internal connections...I doubt it though.

Regards,
David