Winterizing Your Ferrari

When it starts getting chilly down here I know it must be time for our Northern nieghbors to start thinking about winterizing and letting those cars hibernate for a couple months. Probably be a good idea to develop a Winterizing List so that the cars sleep tight and wake up right.

Any takers with a List?

Regards, JRV

Good Idea JRV...I don't have a list, but I guess a lot depends on weather the car will be in heated storage or just a garage. And also if the car is going to be periodically started and moved. Here is a few things I'm going to be doing:

1. Clean outside & inside, doesn't have to be spotless but you do want contaminants removed that may "set in" over the winter months.

2. Treat the leather so it won't dry out. I use the Leatherique stuff and it works great.

3. Change the oil and run engine for a minute or so to circulate it. I will put in cheapy regular oil for the winter months. And in the spring put in the good synthetic stuff.

4. If the motor isn't going to be started at all during the winter, pull the spark plugs and squirt some oil in the cylinders. Deactivate the ignition and turn the motor over a few times to circulate the oil. Now put the plugs back in.

5. Verify Antifreeze/coolant is sufficient for cold temps, I just flushed my cooling system so I'm good to go.

6. Put sabilizer in the gas. Fuel isn't what it used to be in the old days, the newer stuff goes stale quicker.

7. To prevent tires from flat spotting you can park on pads made just for that, or fill up the tires to 40 to 45 psi. Also moving the car a few inches every now and then helps.

8. Set some rodent traps around the shop just in case they need a place to stay and have their sights on your car. Optional: place mothballs in and around the car.

9. You can cover the car if it's spotless. I don't bother as my shop doesn't seem to get very dusty, and I like having quick access to the car. If the car is going to see sunlight and UV rays, like through a window, then do cover it up.

10. Some people put the car up on stands, but this can be bad for shocks and suspension bushings over time. An alternative is to remove some weight from the suspension but not all of it by only partially jacking it up.

11. Apply some silicone gel to weather strips and the like to prevent them from drying out. A very thin film is all that's needed.

12. Flushing and filling the brake system is good if your running the normal stuff. The synthetic stuff doesn't absorb moisture so it's okay.

13. Consider putting a large plastic sheet under the car so when spring comes and the concrete floor sweats it will act like a moisture barrier. It won't stop cold metal parts from getting condensation, but every little bit helps.

14. Get a battery tender, you'll much happier in the spring. If no tender, then at least disconnect it from the car, and store it in an appropriate place.

15. When I had my concours '63 Vette, I would do this and many other things too. The last thing was to put some dessicant bags in and under the car. Then roll the car (flannel covered) backwards into a huge baggie, use a shop vac to suck as much air out as possible, and seal it up. The car would emerge in perfect condition with no corrosion even on the bare metal parts.

I will be periodically starting and moving my car every few weeks or so. I'd like to hear what other's do too, so speak up!

Wow Jeff great list of 'things to do' to put a Ferrari into hibernation. You brought up some things I didn't even think about like treating the rubber and leather...all your points are excelent advice.

Regards, JRV

While I agree with most of what Jeff states, there are a couple of items which I would like to comment on:

#3: I usually plan a change of oil before storage, so that any acids that form, do not sit in the engine over the Winter months. I do not re-change the oil in the Spring. Any moisture that accumulates will only be evaporated by the heat, during Spring warm-up.

#4: I don't like spraying oil in the chambers, because of eventual fouled plugs on start up, in the Spring. If you must do this, then I would recommend spraying some de-fogging spray (found in boating stores) into the intake, while the engine is running, till you see smoke coming from the car. Then shut the car off, and you are done with this step......without removing the plugs. Of course, the plugs can still foul.

#8: Another good item is Bounce Fabric Softener....place sheets in all compartments, and several in the engine bay......mice don't like the odor.

I have also heard of people starting their car on a weekly basis.........This is something that I would NEVER do. I would rather start the car once, in 60 degree heat in Spring, then start it 15 times during the Winter, at temperatures of 10-20 degrees F.

Just my thoughts.

On the engine starting issue. As bad as it may sound, IMO periodic starting may be a good thing.

The oil left behind running an engine dries up/runs off after about 2-3 weeks leaving virtualy no oily protection on many of the internal metal parts. Restarting beyond this period is known as "Dry Starts" and can and does wear out top end pieces, especially cam lobes and followers. I suppose we could then debate 1 dry start in spring vs several semi dry starts during the winter. But there are many other systems in a car that can benifit from starting, rolling, rocking, moving and even driving such as the brakes, charging system and shocks.

Regards, JRV

Well yesterday I needed to get the 308 ready for todays snow. Here's a picture and I just came in from cleaning the driveway. HA

Ha Ha Ha Ha !!!! That's a Good One !!!

I have a question concerning the engine "dry starting" and "semi dry starting" issue. What about just cranking the motor over with the ignition disabled to circulate oil every week or two? Wouldn't this be easier on parts than starting it up? This does not help the trans or differential however. Moving the car a bit would get the differrential, but what would help the transmission except starting and moving the car?

Hi Jeff,

Dry starts are really not a good thing .

A semi-dry start occurs after two or more weeks, dry starts after a month or more.

As stated above, oil runs off all the upper metal as time passes, as well as draining out of the oil gallies in the engine. This causes a lag between the time the engine starts turning, rubbing metal on metal, until oil finally reaches the far ends of the lubricating system and the parts at those ends of the system. This lack of oil can cause very premature wear on suseptable parts, such as cam lobes, followers (thimbles and shims), valve guides & seals, etc. Also a phenomenon that has been reported is actual surface rusting of parts as the oil recedes and moisture from condensation moves in, akin to the way brake rotors rust after washing ones car.. The solution can be found above by driving the Ferrari daily with the Snow Plow attachment afixed(just kidding {}).

There are ways to mitigate some of these issues like electic primer pumps, but probably the best way to mitigate possible trouble is by starting the engine and letting it warm up periodically and a short slow drive to excercise all the different systems that make up an entire car.

Regards, JRV

Steve,
I love that 308 plow shot....Thanks for the laugh.
Perhaps they make a similar model that will fit my BB? Hope the Winter is a short one!

Regards,
David