just a note on behalf of Ferrari... no I don't think it was the cost of the copper. I think they did the best they could with the technology that was available at the time. It's easy for us now saying well why didn't they do this? well because nobody was doing that and let's face it Ferrari is usually the leader of the pack as is so obvious by anyone familiar with the GM/308 Fiero disaster. Can't remember what it was called oh yeah " The infamous MERA "
I am thinking that the 348/t Delco 105 amp with a 3 wire or a three wire rebuild (like a sound shop mod) with a beef up of the existing unit would be the trick based on JR's pioneering work. Does anyone know if it is compatable with 3.2 brackets/belts? To simulate line loss, I'd take a long single third wire and run it the length of the car to the battery, perhaps with the diode (could you post a picture or something of how exactly to do this for us uneducated guys?)
maybe I post a personal opinion not anyone likes:
I don’t think upgrading the alternator is extremely necessary.
If you got a good working 65A unit, it should do the job. If it fails repeatedly, of course there may be a design fault.
(In fact I downgraded 65A units to 45A with 36AH batteries on some cars for without problems. Not Ferraris, but with identical power consumption. This of course was for saving weight and no huge stereos where installed.)
As long as the voltage drop problems are not sorted, there will be no help in more A from the alternator!
Not the source, but the way to the consumer seems the problem.
One problem lies in the rising resistance of connections in the car. This is a very common problem if cars age.
One are 1/2 dead oversized batteries that draw huge amounts of current.
For a start a really new, fully charged 44AH battery should be in place.
Then one should measure the voltage at different points.
Car at idle, no switch able devices on.
Directly at the + battery terminal, at B+ (the fat wire at the alternator) and at some main terminal in the fuse box for a start.
Write down what voltages you find!
Then repeat with headlamps on.
Same with the engine at 3000 rpm.
These values have to be analysed. I cant write down all possible combinations, so basic knowledge of car electrics is necessary for the analysis.
Just a short idea:
If the voltage stays nearly constant at the alternator and drops at the other points, there are unwanted resistances in the circuits. No help from a larger unit!
If the drop is at the alternator a stronger version or reconditioned unit might help. But always (!!!) increase the diameter of the wire from the alternator to the battery if you do so!
AC Delco CS130 alternators should have the 3. wire.
I cant tell you which regulator does the same on a Bosch or Hitachi unit I don’t see!
But sure there are some upgrades possible. If not it should be relatively easy to go for a newer version.
This requires some detective work to figure out what (dead cheap standard part borrowed from a bread an butter car) Ferrari put in our cars.
For the Mondial T and 348 the Delco came from a Eagle Tallon…
Then one can search for a stronger alterative or upgrade regulators and rectifiers that fit.
I usually need 3 hours of online catalogue research if I have taken the old alternator apart.
Please read the old thread an try the supplied links. It is all there!
Well, I do have two modest amps under the seats to run the speakers and sub, will start measuring! I always found it interesting that in the t, a car very near to the 3.2 in electrical systems, they went from an 84 to a 105 amp alternator. I cannot imagine the Motronic requiring 20 amps over the Microplex.
A typical 2x60 W RMS car amplifier draws 12-15A at full power output. You will not use this for more than 10 seconds...
...at idle and normal listening level it will use about 1A. So no use for chromed 165A monster alternators for you!
Jim on your diagram of the delco alt I've done many adaptions and I usually just run a jumper from the 1 to the 2 terminal. I have found that the current draw was insignificant. I also liked the delco alt because they would charge at low idle and it would be about 14.2 volts. I am also looking at some of the newer small size alts that put out 100-120 amps. So this is no rocket science and all you need to do is get a pully to fit and adjust the mounting brackets. Nice going on your work.
Hey steve, I'm Not sure if Jim's me, but I thought about hooking up both those terminals together as they are electrically identically for my needs.. well sort of. I really need that reference wire to reflect my accual working power down the line...say the tailights. I don't think I'm ever going to see if this works until I actually make it work and that's another 4 weeks for me.
As far as the 65A alt being enough I differ, I think in this particular situation it is underated. It has gotten to the point where my alarm will eventually drain a brand new battery and that is just no longer acceptable. I have a new battery, new connections and soon a new alternator. If it works I'll be a happy camper. if it doesn't well then it just gives me more to piddle around with. I don't have a thunderous stereo system either but a rather modest one that could use some help so I think I'll stick to what I'm doing. I just want to have bright lights, usuable and reliable power. Certainly achievable even by 1982 standards and if this was such an easy to fix problem then why are most 80's Ferrariasts having such a hard time fixing it? I think I need to keep at this till I get it right, Like I said in the previous post, electically it will work, thermachally it might not. It all depends on if the heat strap is really cut out ot do what it advertises... we'll see
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