[Guest]

Hi Jrv, and all
On FC you men

Hi Jrv, and all
On FC you mentioned a supplier you use for clutches, AW Imports, but did not include all the digits for the phone number. Would you mind posting that # again. Thanks-

If I do this job myself, I hope you don't mind me bugging you through this site as I progress? It doesn't look like the most difficult job, and I'm looking forward to learning more about my car. I just plan on going very slow and stopping when I reach a point I can't figure out.

Thanks again.

John

 

[Guest]

Hi John,

opps missed a digi

Hi John,

opps missed a digit.

AW Parts - 800-631-5589

ask for Frank, tell him AJ (yea I know but that's what he calls me {

} reffered you.

Get the latest 4V/328 Clutch Kit. There was a Factory TSB in the mid 80's to use 4V PP's going forward in the older cars to reduce pedal pressure. Those older PP's being sold are from V12 Ferraris and "V12 Jags" and require heavy foot pressure.

BTW: people asking questions doesn't bother me at all. In fact that's what these resourses are all about. I like helping keep the cost down so that the enjoyment level will go up. The Old Saying goes, Ferraris in the Shop are NOT good advertisment, Ferraris Driving Around Are. {

}

 

[Guest]

Hi JR,
Are you saying the lat

Hi JR,
Are you saying the later 4V 328 clutch will work on the early 308's like my '78?
Thanks, DJ

 

[Guest]

DJ,

yes they are exactly th

DJ,

yes they are exactly the same size.

The difference lies with the Fulcrum point. The Fulcrum was changed on the PP Spring to allow the same clamping force on the disc side, while requireing less pressure on the foot/cable side.

This update is 20 yrs old at this point, so it's a little surprising to me it's not more widely known. Guess some secrets are better kept than others.

Regards, JRV

 

[Guest]

Dang! Mine was replaced in the

Dang! Mine was replaced in the fall of 2001 but still retains the stiffness. My knee should wear out about the same time the clutch does. Guess I'll make the switch then.
Thanks, DJ

 

[Guest]

I bought the parts from Frank

I bought the parts from Frank today, and hope to get started soon. He was a really nice guy. Very helpful.
Anyway- I was wondering if I need to buy that socket for the lower trans gear ($60)? I would hate to buy it for a single use. I've seen folks make then with a grinder- seems like a lot of touque to be put through a cut socket.
Are there other ways to get that nut off, or just buy the socket and forget about it?

Also- what sealant should be used on the transfer case mating? Does the bell-housing need sealant?
Any other areas need sealant, like the o-rings?
Thanks again.

 

[Guest]

John,

I have the tool, it d

John,

I have the tool, it does make it easier.

As far as sealant. I use High-Temp Copper Silicone on the Transfer Cover and also on the O-Rings as Lubricant so they don't get pinched and as insurance. Those are the only surfaces requiring any sealing.

Glad you liked Frank. He is very helpful imo. Not the worlds best expert, but honest and very reliable.

 

[Guest]

DJ,
Here's another way to

DJ,
Here's another way to lighten your clutch....
http://www.modena-motors.com/308%20Heavy%20Clutch.htm

 

[Guest]

David,

that's a nice up

David,

that's a nice update and I have complete respect for Tony, hope he'll visit here and chime in from time to time. I do however have a reason for not wholesalely reccomending that Mod. When Ferrari switched over to the contact vs freeplay system coincides with clutches lasting 10K miles. The reason is, because of the reverse levers, as the clutch wears it causes the TO to contact the PP in ever increasing amounts, essentialy like riding with ones foot on the clutch constantly. This constant pressure led/leads to premature wear on the disk. Of course the solution to this is simple "periodic adjusting", however "most" drivers wait until the overheating/damage to the disk has already been done before bringing it in for the adjustment to relieve the pressure and realign the pedals.

Of course if guys are aware of the additional service needed and are willing to have timely adjustments done, then it's a worth while update.

Regards, JRV

 

[Guest]

That's right, forgot your

That's right, forgot your post on that over on Chat. Do you know which change makes the most differece? Sounds like the 328 clutch may be the way to go for the less "fastidious" owner.

 

[Guest]

I've started the replaceme

I've started the replacement. So far, I've removed the transfer cover and cleaned it. There was little to no sealant on the mating surfaces. No leaks. The socket for the gear nut is coming in today. Is it worth replacing the bearing that stays in the middle pocket of the tranfer cover? How can I check the bearing? Or the other one on the other side of the same gear?

Also, if it's only the throw-out bearing making noise and the clutch friction surface has plenty of material, should I just replace the t/o bearing and hold onto the new clutch/pp for later? I guess it depends on how difficult it is to get to the bearing. I will soon find out. The cluch feels perfect and is very strong. The new T/O spins smoothly but stiff. Is this normal for this bearing. I assume so. Should the old one feel the same way?

Two studs came out when removing the tranfer gear case- can I just clean them and lock-tite them in?(doubling up the nuts)
I sprayed with PB earlier, but it did not help.
They are the two middle studs on the right of the case (rear).

Thanks all

 

[Guest]

Hello John,

I'll try an

Hello John,

I'll try and help here.

you asked:
>>Is it worth replacing the bearing that stays in the middle pocket of the tranfer cover? How can I check the bearing?<<
I'd say if the bearing spins without noise or grinding it's probably ok. Plus, if the bearing goes out later it isn't as big a deal to just pop off the transfer case cover again just for that (it's been awhile, but that's what I think anyways)

>>should I just replace the t/o bearing and hold onto the new clutch/pp for later? <<
I wouldn't. I'd replace the disc and pp now no matter how they look. If you own the car long enough you'll be glad you did later. No sense in doing it twice. Get it perfect now.

>>The new T/O spins smoothly but stiff. Is this normal for this bearing.<<
Yes

>>Should the old one feel the same way? <<
More than likely not.


>>Two studs came out when removing the tranfer gear case- can I just clean them and lock-tite them in?(doubling up the nuts) <<
Yes

Joe

ps. JR will be by soon to add or clarify

 

[Guest]

Thanks Joe. I should know mor

Thanks Joe. I should know more by the end of the day tomorrow(Satrday). I'll post then.
The bearing on the transfer case does make a little noise when spinning it, but you're right- if it still makes noise after replacing the clutch, t/o etc., it's not tough to replace that bearing later. I would really cry if the lower gear was damaged- it costs about $1600 from ferrari UK. WOW! I'll post some pictures later if anyone is interested. I'm taking some at every step.
Thanks again folks.

 

[Guest]

Hello- I decided to pull every

Hello- I decided to pull everything out and replace.
Well, I know I said I took pictures at every step- but..I forgot one very important one. I forgot to take a picture before I took off the flywheel so I could replace the pilot bearing. There were marks on the flywheel from previous work, and I'm 95% sure those marks are pointed in the same direction when I went to test fit the flywheel. Are the bolt holes in the flywheel slightly off-center and it can only go on one way? When fitting the bolts, I could snug them by hand.
If the flywheel is tightened down, could I just start the car and if it idles like normal- all is well?- Or am I asking for big trouble if the flywheel is off a bolt and I try to fire it up? This would obviously mess up the ignition something fierce and it would spark at all the wrong times.
When the engine (#1) is at TDC, where will the timing pointer be pointed to on the flywheel? If the ignition rotor is pointed to the #1 cyl. contact point in the distributor, is this TDC for this car?

The flywheel looks good (few little black hot spots, and a little groove around the whole thing in the middle of where the clutch would be, that barely catchs on a fingernail), and there was alot of material left on the clutch. Oh well- there is no other way to replace the pilot beariong I guess. I'm going to get it (flywheel) cleaned up at a machine shop. He asked me if I had specs on the flywheel. He said some flywheels have two angles or something. What numbers is he looking for?

Also- to lock the flywheel while torquing the bolts, a friend suggested making a simple peice of metal with a couple holes to bolt together a hole in the flywhel to a flywheel housing bolt hole. This makes sense to me- any other suggestions?

 

[Guest]

Hi John,

The flywheel holes

Hi John,

The flywheel holes are off centered and will only go on one way.

You can't easily start an engine with no flywheel ring gear for the starterto catch on/drive.

Is your car injected? If so the flywheel pick-up sensors would have nothing to read disableing the ignition even if you could find a way to spin the engine without the starter.

For a flywheel/transfer gears lock I use a shop towel wedged in anywhere you can get a compression fit.

Ferrari flywheels have only a flat surface, no angles, can't remember min thickness maybe Henry does from his recent flywheel resurface job? If no reply I'll look it up later.

What else?

 

[Guest]

Hi JRV-
I was thinking of ru

Hi JRV-
I was thinking of running the car with the flywheel attached- not without the flywheel. Would there be a problem with that?
But- as you said- the flywheel can only go on one way- so there should be no need to start the car to test that the timing is correct before attaching the bell housing, transfer gears etc..
Thanks for the info on machining the flywheel.

 

[Guest]

Flywheel is machined and looks

Flywheel is machined and looks grreat- $42. After machining- the thicknes was about .635 inches.
I installed it by checking every bolt hole alignment and only one worked- so it's on correctly? The main seal behind the flywheel looked dry- so I thought it might do more harm than good to replace it.

I was doing a test install of the bell housing after aligning the clutch/pp and it would stop about 1/2" from seating. I figure the clutch is not aligned with the new pilot and now I have to loosen the pp and realign- correct?

As a general question- where should I be putting grease during this entire procedure- all splines, throw/out bearing shaft, t/o bearing forks, clutch cable guides, pivot arm (clutch cable).
Also- where should I NOT put grease aside fron the friction surfaces? Any bearings need grease or does the trans oil take care of thet? How about on the contact surface between t/o bearing and pp? I would think you would want as little amount of grease as possible in there.

I've read somwhere that there is a spring inside the bell housing that is connected to the t/o bearing sleeve or something. My bell housing had no spring anywhere- am I missing something, or is this on older 308's?

One last thing- a spacer on the tranmission shaft (lower gear of tranfer case) fell out when I pulled off the bell housing, but there is still a snap ring on the shaft. Does this spacer sit around this snap ring? I assume it does- i can't seee any other way. Does it need any grease?

Thanks

 

[Guest]

In regards to Tony's mod,

In regards to Tony's mod, it doesn't appear my car applies as the chassis number is 26581. A little to early for the mod according to his numbers.
I'll live.

DJ

 

[Guest]

DJ, you reminded me, early car

DJ, you reminded me, early cars required a bell housing change. Very Pricey mod.

John,

the bell housings don't always just slip all the way on. Sometimes some taps on the upper shaft end with a lead hammer is neccesary Did you use an alignment spline tool?

I use graphite grease sparingly but adequate on the TO sleeve, on theTO Fork Contact Points,, tip of the Output Shaft and very sparinly on the splines. To allow everything nice smooth movement.

The spring you ask about is probably the TO Bearing Keeper Spring that clips the TO to the TO Fork...(could be missing?)...if it is it will still work without it because the PP will push the TO back when the peddle is released.

The spacer slips on the shaft with the cutout side (groove) towards the snap ring and fits over the snap ring holding it secured to the shaft groove..it's a trap collar and inner bearing race keeper..

HTH's

Regards, JRV

 

[Guest]

JRV, Thanks for the help
Yea-

JRV, Thanks for the help
Yea- I used a GM plastic alignment tool the second try- and it worked perfectly and all slid together.
I put it all together last night except for the transfer gears and transfer housing. I put a blanket under the cluth pedal so it sat at the same level as the brake pedal and then tightened the clutch adjuster until it had just a little slack. I hope that's good enough for now until I can drive it to see how the clutch operates. Would there be any reason to change the adjuster at the end of the clutch cable? I only changed the one with the turning nut in the middle. I see in the WSM that there is a distance (40-45 mm) horizontally between pivot points. Would this be checked by changing the adjuster on the end of the cable?
The clutch pedal is much smoother and a little lighter now. I lubed everything you mentioned including the removal, cleaning, and greasing of the pulley the cable rides in. It was so jammed up with greasy gunk that it did not spin. The cable had one or two loose strands at this area. I will watch it.

Tonight- install the trans gears, cover, add trans fluid in transfer case, and test drive!
...I hope.