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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi , can amyone help me get my

Hi , can amyone help me get my 308gt4 started?!
I have replaced the cam belts. Also plugs, ht leads, points and condensors while i was at it. Now i cant get it to run. all marks on the cams lined up with the nothces perfectly with flywheel at pm1-4. set dizzy up with rotor lined up with red dot on body and with flywheel at +6deg. but it wont start just fluffs and back fires. Definately got fuel and spark. got mate to spin it without plugs in while i cheked timing with a strob, appeared to be advanced by about 16deg, reset it as best as i could but still no joy. Any ideas?
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Wayne,
did you adjust the poi


Wayne,
did you adjust the point gap to 0,3-0,35 mm? Do a static timing with a timing light (to see when the point contact opens) and set to the WSM specs, which is 6 deg advance for a single point arrangement. If you have a second set of points for idle, the value for them is 10 deg later (4 deg ATDC, hope to remember correctly, you need to look into the WSM).
Check that the rotor lines up roughly with the small notch on the distributor housing, then the rotor points to cyl 1 at TDC (check against the cyl 1 contact in the dist cap).
As a check, if you have two distributors, the leads coming out of the front one should point horizontally in driving direction, the leads of the rear should be oriented upwards.
If all this is set correctly, it should run good enough to make fine adjustments.

Regards
Harry
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Harry,
Thanks for the repl


Hi Harry,
Thanks for the reply.

When I fitted new points I gapped both sets to 0,35mm, It is a single distributor, two points set model, I didnt move the carrier plates so as to keeping the relationship between the two sets unchanged. But tonight I will remove and double check those gaps!

Can you clarify for me how to perform the static timing? Which contacts do I connect to so I am checking the correct points for example? I have got a strobe but this is only any use once the thing is running. ALso have a volt meter, can I use this to do the static timing check?

According to the WSM; for idle speed set flywheel to 6 deg advance mark (about 1 inch before the PM1-4 mark), did that, line rotor up with notch on distributor body, did that. it didnt start!

Also according to WSM, at 2000 rpm timing should advance from 6 deg BTDC to 16 deg BTDC, it was my understanding that this is carried out by the second set of points?

Cheers

Wayne
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For static timing, connect a t

For static timing, connect a test light (basically a simple bulb) to the R1 contact (where the capacitor is connected as well) and earth. When the points are closed, the bulb is bypassed by the points, when the points open, the bulb is on.

The R2 points are only active at idle and are insulated by a microswitch at more than idle throttle. They retard the ignition by 10 deg at idle due to emission reasons.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheers Harry,
will check it a


Cheers Harry,
will check it all out tonight, fingers crossed!
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dear Harry,
All fixed, hurra


Dear Harry,
All fixed, hurrah!! When I went to do the static timing test I noticed that I had connected the wires from the coils to the distributor the wrong way round, i'e the HT lead was going to one coil and the small wire was going to the other, literally had my wires crossed! Swopped them around, fired up straight away!

Now that the HT lead and wire are both going to the same coil it seems to run fine. I couldn't quite work out what the deal is with the 2 sets of points? It seemed to me that the second set of points is responsible for delivering the spark to the other 4 cylinders (8 leads, one cap) and not retarding the ignition? If not, then how does the one set of points deliver to 8 leads? I'm confused!

With this confusion in mind I am wondering; the distibutor body (next to condensors) and cap (by HT leads) are labled 'A' and 'B' but the coils dont seemed to be labled. Does it make a difference which coil is used as A and which as B? i.e if I swopped both sets of wires over would it still run the same? Is there an area where I could make a mistake and be running off the wrong set of points at idle?

Cheers
Wayne
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You are right, in a single dis

You are right, in a single distributor the second set of point is for the other 4 cylinders, not for retarding.
I am not familiar with the single distributor setup with 2 coils, cannot help you there.

Regards
Harry
 
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