Ferrari Forums banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1980 308 GTSi that wh

I have a 1980 308 GTSi that when it is warm if left sitting for over 20 minutes will have to crank the engine 3-4 x's 20 -30 seconds each time to get it to start. Once started it runs fine. When the engine is cold it will start up immediately. My mechanic feels that it is not holding the fuel pressure once warm but cannot determine why this is occuring. Switched valve between fuel pump and accumulator which did not help. Any assistance is very appreciated. Ed
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
If he already replaced the che

If he already replaced the check valve then the next item I would check would be the fuel accumulator. It is right next to the fuel pump. You can remove the vent line from the rear of the accum. and see if gas comes out. If it does then the accum. is bad.
I would also pull the clue connector on the cold start injector which is on the passenger side, in the plenum when the car is warm to make sure it isn't the culprit of leakdown. It can be other items to such as leaky injectors or a bad warm up regulator but most of the time it is in the check valve or fuel accumulator.
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is a very comprehensive

There is a very comprehensive diagnosis procedure for CIS in almost any shop manual, your mechanic may just have shot for the obvious. The pressure valve in the distribution head can leak off pressure as well. I would concur that the possible culprit order might be
1 check valve on pump
2 fuel accumulator
3 pressure relief
4 warm up regulator
time to follow procedure or throw parts at it IMO.

Regards, Brian
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My QV had the same problem- al

My QV had the same problem- althought it would not take as long to start when warm as your description. We checked all the "cheaper" stuff first (accumulator, check valve etc.) but it failed a fuel pressure test and turned out to be the warm-up regulator. Now, all is well.

That little box is <font color="ff0000">painfully</font> expensive. I think like $650 or so for my euro 308.
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
John,

Can't the WUR


John,

Can't the WUR be rebuilt? I thought I remember someone talking about it.

JL
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, but sometimes they just a

Yes, but sometimes they just aren't correct. Many have had problems with pressure differences between the rebuilt unit and the stock unit. I experimented with one on a car I had and played with moving the pin up and down. This changing pressures slightly. Well just a slight movement made a large difference in pressure.
I saw one instance where a rebuilt WUR was causing the car to run rich constantly. It was fouling plugs after plugs. It was letting the plunger in the FD rise higher than it should causing it to run too rich even when control pressure was at its highest.
Anyway, it seems like it could be a crap shoot but maybe if there is a consistant rebuilder it would work. There really isn't a lot to them. The ones I have been inside have 2 large resistors and the bi-metallic strip as well as a spring mechanism with a rod in it that pushes up the diaphram as the bi-metallic strip rises.
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks to everyone for the adv

Thanks to everyone for the advise I will share it with my mechanic. I love driving this car even more so when it starts well. Once the problems is fixed I'll get back on with the result. with my schedule that will probably be a month. Thanks Again. Ed
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
John,

Frank at AW has t


John,

Frank at AW has the WUR's for $369.00 if you ever need another one. Check the sponsor secton of the site. Frank is a great guy.

JL
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jeremy,
The car was at a shop


Jeremy,
The car was at a shop at the time- so they bought the WUR. Being a german 308, the first one they ordered was wrong, and we had to wait for another.
The one on my car was wrong, not broken, so it was difficult to find the correct part # for it.
Someone must have replaced in the past with the wrong one. There were not enough vacumm connections.

So, now I have an extra working WUR that's not right for my car. It worked, it just made starting when warm difficult, and my pressures were wrong.

Also- Frank is a great guy at AW- I bought all my clutch parts and some other bits from him.

Thanks- John
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I, too, had a warm engine star

I, too, had a warm engine starting problem on my '81 308GTBi. Engine started fine when cold. After warming up, it took forever to start or just wore the battery down and didn't start at all. Replaced the fuel system accumulator ($145 from GT Auto Parts in Phoenix). That solved the problem and it starts just fine when the engine is warm/hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Having a similar though intermittent problem with my 83 Mondial QV. The symptoms are very similar to described, however mine will sometimes do it from cold.

Have assumed up until now that the after market immobiliser may be at fault.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I had the same problem on my 308 drove me crazy.Just changed the fuel accumulater,fixxed the problem.It sits beside the fuel pump under the car took mechanic 15 minutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
ferrari starting problems

I have a 81 308 same thing checked and changed my wur did not work.changed my fuel accumalater fixxed the problem hope this helps
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top