308 Timing Belt Change

3057 Views 4 Replies 0 Participants Last post by Mark Foley (Sparky), May 3, 2004

Discussion Starter · May 1, 2004

I'm preparing to change th

I'm preparing to change the belts and hoses on the 308, it's an 84 QV. I have a receipt that shows it was done by the previous owner about 10K miles ago, but it wasn't at a dealer and the receipt say's the parts were customer supplied. The car is doing fine, but for piece of mind I want to change them, besides I have an oil leak around a cam seal on the pully side. Along with this I plan to replace all the hoses, pull the radiator and have it flushed, replace the clutch, and replace the fuel pump. Obviously the last two items can be done after the belt change (don't want to take too much apart at once).

Step 1 is purchasing all the parts. Some suppliers quote belt & bearing, while others quote tensioner assembly. What are the risks for only replacing the pulley on the existing tensioner? Also, the cam will have to come out due to the leaky seal. Should I change all cam seals at the same time (even the ones that aren't giving me problems, if not is it required to change the seal on the nonleaking side of the cam I have to pull?

Thanks for any info. I'll be asking other stupid questions as the project progresses. If anyone's interested I include some photos.

Donny

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Discussion Starter · #2 · May 1, 2004

Donny: I am just completing a

Donny: I am just completing a major service on my TR. I replaced the belts, tensioner bearings, and all cam seals.

If the tensioner assembly still has spring action in it, then there is no need to replace it.......just the bearings. Compare both sides......they should be equally stiff.....if not, then replace them.

I replaced all cam seals, even though only one leaked. When I got the new one, I noticed that the 3 "non-leaking" cam seals where very hard, in comparison to the new seal. While they may not leak, they should NOT be hard.......I doubt that they will last another 30K miles. If your's are harder than the new one.....replace them.

Are the clutch and fuel pump bad.......If not, why not just leave them alone?

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Discussion Starter · #3 · May 1, 2004

Hi Donnie!!!

I just pur

Hi Donnie!!!

I just purchase my 60k parts from AW Auto Parts, one of the board sponsors. I received the parts in 4 days from NJ. Excellent service and prices. Please post some pics!! I will be doing my major this winter and can use the help.

Henryk had some great advice. I also bought only the Tensioner bearings. And while you have the engine semi apart, change all four cam seals. I bought all four. The last thing you will want is for another one to leak a few months from now and have to go through the whole process again. Cheap insurance IMHO.

Call Frank Baker (AW Auto Parts) on Monday. He will take care of you.

Jeremy

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Discussion Starter · #4 · May 1, 2004

I suspect the fuel pump is not

I suspect the fuel pump is not delivering proper fuel pressure. Upon wide open throttle, the car will lose power, back off a little and it pulls hard again. After being checked out by my mechanic he says most likely failing fuel pump. I have a set of fuel pressure gauges. I will take readings before replacing. As far as the clutch, it isn't slipping but does engage at the very top. These projects will definitely be last on my list.

Thanks for info Henery.

Jeremy, if you don't mind, PM me the prices for your parts so I can compare them with the quotes I already have.

Thanks again

Donny

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Discussion Starter · #5 · May 3, 2004

Donny:

It is my "unders

Donny:

It is my "understanding" that a worn clutch will disengage near the bottom--more of the pedal travel is required to disengage because the plate is thinner. Your clutch may be good

.

Personnaly I have not done it this way, but as far as the cam seals, you may want to check with others regarding the possibility of changing the seals without removing the cams.

Mark

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