[Guest]

Started the first steps to rep

Started the first steps to replace the CV boots on our QV tonight. Here are some pics of the work so far (The easy part). Tomorrow night I will attack the bolts to release the shafts.

From what I have been told it is not fun. But as you can see, I don't have much choice as one of the boots has come off. With a little luck, and JR's Jedi mind tricks, maybe I will manage to get them off with little or no MAJOR issues (fingers crossed). Here are the pics so far. If anyone would like pics of something let me know and I will post them.


JL

 

[Guest]

Hi Mr. Lawrence,

Wonderful

Hi Mr. Lawrence,

Wonderful if you would write this procedure up - same for 308 & 328 folks.

Cheers,

Carl

 

[Guest]

I'll try to Carl. I am not

I'll try to Carl. I am not as precise in my verbal instructions as you are.

Maybe I will write it up and send to you for a critique first.

I was looking at how everything goes together and I am amazed at how they put it all in there. My fist thought when looking at the alternator is, "How do you get the alternator out should you have one go bad?" There is no room to get it out without pulling the engine, or removing 12 other parts first. WOW!!! I will learn to appreciate the engineering I am sure.

This is where JR's years of expierence, parience, and kung-fu training come in handy.

JL

 

[Guest]

Absolutely be glad to review f

Absolutely be glad to review for you.
Perspective I have adopted is that posted elsewhere of "Step 1: disassemble car." thus if not required one is already ahead!

Carl
[email protected]

 

[Guest]

Quick question for the experts

Quick question for the experts.


How do you keep the hub from spinning when you turn the bolts?

 

[Guest]

Jeremy,
That's an easy on

Jeremy,
That's an easy one...You need Ferrari special tool #11, a moderate sized screwdriver. Actually any screwdriver, or round drift inserted in the slotted brake rotor...pressing against the caliper, will prevent the axle from turning.

Regards,
David

 

[Guest]

Thank you David. I guess I was

Thank you David. I guess I was too tired last night to see that, now obvious, method.

I tried my best with a simple ratchet (with many extensions) to free the bolts. No luck yet. I am applying JR's teachings that brut force usually ends in something broken (bolt, tool, or bone).

I think I will try an impact wrench and see if the vibration will help shake them loose.

Any other ideas are welcome.


JL

 

[Guest]

Thank you David. I guess I was

Thank you David. I guess I was too tired last night to see that, now obvious, method.

I tried my best with a simple ratchet (with many extensions) to free the bolts. No luck yet. I am applying JR's teachings that brut force usually ends in something broken (bolt, tool, or bone).

I think I will try an impact wrench and see if the vibration will help shake them loose.

Any other ideas are welcome.



Pics of the screwdriver trick:

JL

 

[Guest]

Jeremy,

I find the safest,

Jeremy,

I find the safest, most effective tools to use are a very long handled 1/2" drive ratchet & the shortest possible extension (no extension on the outers) with 1/2 drive Allen Socket attached.

The bolts tend to be extremly tight. Too small of tools or to many extensions tend to allow the allen socket to lean as force is applied increasing the chance of rounding off. It is important to keep the tools and bolt aligned as striaght as possible. This keeps the rule of maximum surface area contact in play. Slowly take up all slack in the tools and keep striaght before applying force and continue to insure the tools are not leaning.

In scientific terms one must create enough twisting force at the bolt head to overcome the clamping force at the threads. With large enough tools the applied force on the head in a steady manner, increasing and being held at a level just below rounding off the bolt or tool will drive the force the lenght of the bolt and set up harmonics due to the twisting that helps in the loosening process.

HTH's

JRV

 

[Guest]

I just removed the axels on my

I just removed the axels on my 308 on Wednesday(removing the engine for a rebuild). I found the easiest way to loosen the bolts for the axel was useing 2 people and a large pry bar.
1. But all wheel bolts back in there spots(without the wheel of course)
2. Use the large pry bar to counter the loosening motion of the rachet on the axel bolts.
3. Or hold rachet and socket with both hands to ensure that the allen head socket stays straight,and have the helper turn the wheel hub with the pry bar in the proper direction to loosen the bolt.

I have also found the working under the car going between the muffler and rear header allows access to the axel bolts without the use of an extention.

Be sure to undo the bolts at the transmission first and then the out bolts at the wheel hub.

 

[Guest]

WOW!!! Excellent advice.

A

WOW!!! Excellent advice.

All I have is a 3/8 allen socket. I have a 1/2 ratchet but I don't think it is very long. Does Sears offer a frequent buyer discount?

Without using any extensions for the inside bolts, through which extremely narrow opening do you work through? The engine mounts are really in the way as is the exhaust header.

Are there any other items that you should remove to gain better access?


The narrow window:

JL

 

[Guest]

Jeremy,

you can use a pipe

Jeremy,

you can use a pipe on the short handle of the 1/2" ratchet to increase leverage.

Yes Sears has a Long Handled 1/2" as I have one, and a Snap-On long. One for each hand when going at it two handed

 

[Guest]

Hi Tom,

We must have pos

Hi Tom,

We must have posted at the same time. I'll look at attacking through the header/muffler. How long is the ratchet you are using? My 1/2" is 10-1/2" and I will need to get the 1/2" allen socket to use it.

JL

 

[Guest]

JR, Two handed huh. [IMG]http

JR, Two handed huh.

Already one step ahead of you. I was looking for a scrap piece of pipe.

There just isn't a whole lot of space to work in.

I can't find a section of pipe small enough to allow for wiggle room. The first step is to get the 1/2" allen socket so I will run to Sears. Woohooo more tools!!!!


JL

 

[Guest]

Hi Jeremy You should be using

Hi Jeremy You should be using an 8mm allen head socket instead of the 1/2. The 1/2 inch one is slightly to small and could round out the head. Well to gain access to the axel nuts at the trans is a bit of a trick. You have to sort of just find the best position for yourself that is comforatble(if thats possiable on a Ferrari

)
The bolts are tight!!
Once I had to remove the muffler and rear exhaust manifold to gain access to a stubburon bolt that would not budge. Hopefully this will nut happen to you.

One other thing you could try is to brace the handel of the reachet against somthing soild and the use the wheel studs and a pry bar to loosen the axel bolts.

 

[Guest]

Tom,

I am using the 8mm a

Tom,

I am using the 8mm allen socket. I was referring to the 1/2" drive. I thought about removing the muffler and exhaust for better access. Then I thought I was just being a big baby and should just stick with it.

I will look into the pry bar method. I want to be sure and keep the socket as level as possible so I don't round out the head as JR had warned. I'm not sure I would have as much control with the pry bar.

Thank you for the ideas. I will keep you posted.


JL

 

[Guest]

I just had a funny thought....

I just had a funny thought.... Pretty soon, my toolbox will be worth more than my car.

 

[Guest]

Ha!! Welcome to my world [IMG]

Ha!! Welcome to my world

 

[Guest]

Woooohooooo!!!!!! I got the in

Woooohooooo!!!!!! I got the inside bolts loose. I used a combination of JR's and Tom's tecniques. I used the 1/2" drive with the 8mm Allen socket and rested it against the engine block. Then, using a pry bar on the lug bolts I slowly started to apply force. I was extremely careful making sure the ratchet was not slipping or getting sideways. All six bolts are now loose.

I started on the outer six, but decided to let them soak in some PB Blaster overnight. Will continue in the morning.

One thing to note is ALL THE GREASE that had been slung all over the place. It will need a good cleaning when all is back together.



Thank you all for the help and coaching.


JL

 

[Guest]

The passenger side drive shaft

The passenger side drive shaft is out. After having to repair my tool (Husky 8mm Allen socket) The bolts came out pretty easily. PB Blaster really works well. Here is the final pic of the DS coming out.

I am off to the shop so JR can show me how to inspect the CV joint and to tear it all apart to install the new boot.

Then I move to the driver's side. Wooohoooo!!!!

JL