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·In a previous thread I reporte
In a previous thread I reported an oil line failure approx 3-4 weeks ago. I've since installed OEM oil lines ( at great expense) and filled the crankcase with Castrol 10w40 ( vs. the usual 20x50 due extremely cold weather here--ie zero or below every night for the past month!). I've started the car twice since replacing the lines and here is what I've observed: upon start-up, the oil pressure light goes out w/i a couple of seconds as it always has. However, the needle on the gage doesn't move at all for at least 30 seconds. When it does, it radiply floats up to normal range and operates normally throughout warm up, giving totally normal readings while idling and revving. When shutting the engine off and restarting it works right away.
Q--Since the oil light goes right out and the engine sounds fine, is this indicative of just a gauge/sender malfunction? Could the extreme cold cause something like this to happen with the gauge/ sender ( it's typically around 30 degrees in the garage after I heat it for awhile). Could there be a mechanical problem in the lube system causing this which could have resulted from the ruptured oil line? The gauge worked fine before this--but the weather was much more moderate then also. Is there a way of testing the gauge/ sender itself? Are there a separate senders for the oil pressure light and needle gauge or do they bth operate off of one? Any input would be much appreciated
In a previous thread I reported an oil line failure approx 3-4 weeks ago. I've since installed OEM oil lines ( at great expense) and filled the crankcase with Castrol 10w40 ( vs. the usual 20x50 due extremely cold weather here--ie zero or below every night for the past month!). I've started the car twice since replacing the lines and here is what I've observed: upon start-up, the oil pressure light goes out w/i a couple of seconds as it always has. However, the needle on the gage doesn't move at all for at least 30 seconds. When it does, it radiply floats up to normal range and operates normally throughout warm up, giving totally normal readings while idling and revving. When shutting the engine off and restarting it works right away.
Q--Since the oil light goes right out and the engine sounds fine, is this indicative of just a gauge/sender malfunction? Could the extreme cold cause something like this to happen with the gauge/ sender ( it's typically around 30 degrees in the garage after I heat it for awhile). Could there be a mechanical problem in the lube system causing this which could have resulted from the ruptured oil line? The gauge worked fine before this--but the weather was much more moderate then also. Is there a way of testing the gauge/ sender itself? Are there a separate senders for the oil pressure light and needle gauge or do they bth operate off of one? Any input would be much appreciated
