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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ferrari 328 Oil Change


Ferrari 328 Oil Change

Any enthusiast can change the oil in their Ferrari- this is not a mystical or difficult task, although more involved than many other cars I’ve done. Opinions differ as to frequency: every 2.5-5K for driven cars, every 6-12 months for garage furniture (280mi in past 6 months in this instance). Some also recommend changing oil after warming car to suspend any debris & make flush more thorough.
[Example car is late-88 but 328 series is identical]

Time: Approximately 2 hours (I would imagine less with repetition!)

Tools required:

17mm deep 6pt 3/8” socket
Torque wrench
Oil drain pan (sufficient to hold ~10 quarts)
Oil filter or strap wrench
Floor jack and stand
Wheel stop blocks
Oil pour funnel
Lots of paper towels

Parts required:

Oil filter #111782 (UFI#2316201/#191993 or Baldwin #B253 $10-15).

Comment: Concours requires UFI, many mechanics recommend Baldwin. Fram PH-2804-1 is also listed in OEM specifications but other two seem to be preferred. UFI filter typically is sourced from dealers or suppliers, while the Baldwin may be found locally at truck supply depots.
[Note: I understand there were problems with some of the early UFI filters (suffix
ending -00) rupturing the mounting gasket; ensure you use the later -01 version)

Oil (10 quarts of your favorite; AGIP SINT 10W-40 is factory specified)

Comment: Discussions of oil are akin to theological debate. AGIP SINT 2000 is a semi-synthetic blend sourced only at dealers ($8/liter) or direct from AGIP USA (800-832-8777; $5.60/liter w/shipping). Castrol now makes a similar “blend” in 20W-50 (good for warmer climates) for about $2.50/qt. For full synthetic Mobil 1 is the most popular choice (15W-50) for $4.50-5/qt.

Oil drain plug copper washer #10257060 ($1); NAPA part #704-1305 is
functional (16mm ID/22mm OD/1.3mm thick) & should work fine ($0.88).

Baldwin & UFI filters:

First, while you’re still clean, raise the decklid and drape the paintwork with thick soft towels & tape in place. I was unable to slide a large oil drain pan under the car without lifting car. Accordingly block the front wheels, then lift the left rear (jack on frame rail) slightly and set on stand. This will also improve drainage as plug is on right side of oil pan.

Engine oil drain plug is horizontally-oriented 17mm hex bolt and marked “OLIO MOTORE” on underside of pan [transmission oil drain plug is vertical allen-head plug]. Access from just in front of passenger rear wheel. Spread more newspaper down than you think you’d ever need. Loosen drain plug slightly (standard RH thread, mine had been installed very tight).

Set drain pan in place and remove plug. The oil drains quite quickly so you may want to regulate this with your finger to avoid splashing.

When flow from pan has slowed, remove oil cap to vent engine. Pack several paper towels around the oil filter and remove using filter wrench. Folks recommend punching a hole at the apex to drain the filter, but the previously installed Baldwin filter didn’t leak a drop during removal.

Wipe a bit of oil on the new filter rubber seal and install hand-tight. Tighten further using the filter wrench; I protected the nice white paint by covering the UFI filter with a Ziploc freezer baggie & lining inside of the filter wrench with masking tape. Not certain about a torque value; I went to “quite snug”.

Clean the drain plug. I purchased several drain plug copper washers in advance, but none turned out to be the proper size (removed washer: ID 0.631”, OD 0.825”, thickness 0.053”; which translates to metric: ID 16mm, OD 21mm, 1.4mm thick). I flipped sealing side over and re-used.

Thread this into the oil pan by hand then torque sequentially (couldn’t find torque value in any of the manuals so I used 25 ft-lbs). Don’t guesstimate - use a torque wrench. Stripping the oil pan threads would make this much more interesting.

Wipe the oil pan fins clean (Simple Green) and carefully remove full oil drain pan from under car. Lower car to ground and remove front wheel blocks. Most auto parts stores recycle used motor oil at no charge.

My Prestone radiator funnel fit perfectly in the fill spout. Fill with 9 quarts of your favorite oil. [pictures illustrate AGIP SINT 10W-40]:

Reinstall oil fill cap (clean off fingerprints!) and wipe up any spills

Start and check for leaks (both drain plug & filter seal). Run the car until warm then shut off. Recheck the oil level 10-15 minutes later and add as necessary. My car requires about 9 liters total to register “full” on dipstick.

Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Offering a correction for the

Offering a correction for the NAPA part number of the copper washer used on the oil pan drain plug. I asked for the #704-1305 at my local NAPA and they came up with a spring. We found a listing for copper washers measuring 22mm X 26mm X 1mm (7/8" X 1.050" X .050") #704-1364. If I remember correctly the OEM washers are 1.5mm thick as opposed to these 1mm thick washers. I have installed them on my '78 308 at all five locations required and they don't leak.
They cost .69 cents each.

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
NAPA # 704-1365 for the 16mm w

NAPA # 704-1365 for the 16mm washers previously mentioned in the article.

Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oops sorry everyone!


Oops sorry everyone!

Suspect I was reading the NAPA part # from the box washers were in when purchased. On the register reciept are the following two numbers:
#1242 "GASKET PK" Code T30R $0.67 each
#1243 "GASKET PK" Code T30R $0.44 each

I think the #1242 is washer referenced in article but it's been a few months so not certain.

My apologies!

40 Posts
Thanks for providing such an informative post, and looks like you have put a really good time in putting all this together, and is going to be a really good for all the newbies as well as pro's.
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