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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 355 is a 1999 F1 spider. I

My 355 is a 1999 F1 spider. I am getting ready to put in another clutch. I had replaced it roughly 10,000 miles prior. I believe the rapid ware was due to the grease coming loose from within the flywheel and destroying the clutch material (is this correct?). This time around I will need to repack it. I have never performed this procedure before but have reviewed your January 2005 thread regarding the 355 flywheel and am ready to tackle it. I will open and clean the flywheel and pack it with 230 grams of grease; then reseal it with a do-it-yourself McMaster O-ring (is this correct? any other tips?). What kind of grease does the flywheel require?

My second issue, and main question, is a leak. I have an F1 fluid leak coming from, it seems, within the main clutch housing. It appears to be dripping through the bottom vent of this housing. It is a fast leak as a majority of the system's F1 fluid appears on the floor overnight. A few hours leaves a good 12 inch puddle. Is this as simple as replacing a seal or two – or is this a throw-out bearing problem – or something else? Seems serious. What will I need to prepare for and purchase (specific seals, tools) for this problem while I’m in there replacing the clutch?

My third set of questions returns to the clutch. My previous clutch kit included the pressure plate and cost over $800. Now that I have 2 worn clutch plates and 2 pressure plates, is there a store I may trade these parts in for 1 discounted new set? If not, where do you recommend I buy the new parts from? I was also interested in getting a different type of clutch. After doing some research and reviewing your threads I don’t have much hope; but are there any aftermarket clutches or otherwise that will perform better (more grippy, wares less, designed for longer periods of aggressive driving)? I also need a clutch alignment tool. I borrowed the last one and am not sure if I can get it again. Any cheaper solutions or tools than the one I found online for $100? Last thing! After everything is reassembled I remember needing to have the F1 system calibrated for the new clutch. Is there another solution rather than paying the dealer a quoted $390 for this task?

Sorry for the essay! I truly appreciate any of your help.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
"I believe the rapid ware

"I believe the rapid ware was due to the grease coming loose from within the flywheel and destroying the clutch material (is this correct?)."

I have had to have the Dual Mass FlyWheel rebuilt a couple of times. I never lost a clutch plate from this, but it is completely possible. And if any grease did get on the clutch plate, It is surely toast.

"What kind of grease does the flywheel require?"

This grease is a special kind of damping grease, JRV will know where to obtain some. I believe that there is a factory bulitin to add a little more grease than the original specification. JRV?

"I have an F1 fluid leak coming from, it seems, within the main clutch housing. <snip> Is this as simple as replacing a seal or two – or is this a throw-out bearing problem – or something else?"

I suspect the throwout bearing assembly is toast. Be sure to get the one from post 97 with the teflon seals; it seems to be smoother and lighter than the earlier TO throwout plunger.

"Now that I have 2 worn clutch plates and 2 pressure plates, is there a store I may trade these parts in for 1 discounted new set?"

I would check the thickness of the flywheel where the clutch plate and pressure plate mate. There is a spec in the shop manual, if this is too thin, the throwout setup will not fully disengage the clutch--leading to wear.

Aside: Even though I have eaten 2 DMFW rebuilds and a new throwout assembly, I have not eaten a clutch plate in 30K miles where 4K of these has taken place on race tracks. I can assure you that my driving on the track is agressive, but I always take the time to feel the clutch as I release the pedal--someting the F1 system cannot do as well as a human.

"After everything is reassembled I remember needing to have the F1 system calibrated for the new clutch. Is there another solution rather than paying the dealer a quoted $390 for this task?"

Don't know. JRV?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's possible to get greas

It's possible to get grease on the clutch , however it's very rare. Rapid wear is usually caused by the computer alipping the clutch to much or long slow takeoffs from lights and sometimes slow movement up hills like steep driveways.

You can buy the grease from Algar Ferrari, 1 can is required (the latest update stated 210 grams). You will also need a Universal O-Ring Kit from NAPA if you disassemble the flywheel or an injection tool if you decide to just fill it from the filler plugs. However if it's "leaking" I suggest you take it apart and replace the large outer o-ring, whuich Ferrari doesn't sell and where the Universal O-Ring Kit comes into play.

You can send your Clutches to www.clutchmasters.com to have them rebuilt & the disk linings upgraded.

Correct, there is no way around having the dealer reprogram the F1 Computer. And this is critical after the rest of the work is performed to keep the servo's from slipping the clutch excessively between shifts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you so much for your hel

Thank you so much for your help. I truly appreciate your prompt and thorough responses. I will be sending my clutches in to be rebuilt as well as purchasing the parts you recommended so I can get the 'rarri back on road!

One last thing. How many seals for the T/O bearing, clutch shaft, and input shaft will I need to replace in total? (so I know what to order and am ready for the project). Thanks again.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Lee at Algar will know for cer

Lee at Algar will know for certian, but as I recall there are 3 seals (maybe 4 total).
 
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