[Guest]

Car started fine, ran it, and

Car started fine, ran it, and got 5 miles before it slowly sputtered out of life.......had it towed home.........that was 3 weeks ago.

When home, I found a bad fuel pump fuse, replaced it, and it started right up.......all in the garage. I had the radiator recored in the mean time......installed it this week. So I went out to start the car and it won't start..........starter cranks well. My ignition tester shows about 30KV at the coil wire, while cranking.....yet no start!

I can hear the fuel pumps are working.

Confused!!!!!!!!!

 

[Guest]

Pull a plug wire & check f

Pull a plug wire & check for spark to the plugs.

If you have spark to the plugs, pull a plug or two to see if they are wet.

 

[Guest]

JRV: Unable to check for dire

JRV: Unable to check for direct spark........am by myself. I did use the spark tester, and got 8-15KV on a plug wire.

Removed some plugs: right bank is DRY, while the left bank is WET.

It was the right bank fuel pump fuse that blew, earlier. I did install new fuses.

 

[Guest]

I proceeded to put an ammeter,

I proceeded to put an ammeter, in series, across the right fuel pump fuse. With the safety circuit disconnected, and the ignition on, I got 9 amps while the pump was running.

 

[Guest]

I'm a total idiot about el

I'm a total idiot about electrical stuff, but is it something in the "safety circuit" that won't let the right pump run?

 

[Guest]

Jeff: The safety circuit prev

Jeff: The safety circuit prevents the pumps from running when the ignition is in the "ON" position. The pump will only run while cranking, and engine running. Disconnecting the circuit allows the pump(s) to run when in the "ON" position. This is so that one can check the pressures, on a cold, non-running engine.

JRV: I think it is time to check the pressures. I would like to check the fuel pump pressures first, as it exits the pump. I have a fuel pressure gauge, but I don't have all the necessary connectors. Can you recommend a pressure test kit that would be good for CSI, with ALL the proper connectors (that will work on Ferraris).......the best, please.

Thanks

 

[Guest]

Henry,

it's really only

Henry,

it's really only neccesary to check pressures at the Aux Press. Reg. & FD in the standard FS Test...as system pressure portion of the test is the pressure the pump is making.

I got my kit from Baum Tools (years & years ago), but several others here got nice kits somewhere else...can't remeber where but maybe there is a lnk at the bottom in resources? Baum Tools has any adapters you may need.

 

[Guest]

Snap-On seems to have a comple

Snap-On seems to have a complete FI testing kit.......including for CSI........will contact rep on Monday. I couldn't find a kit on the Baum site.

I am curious about one thing. A few years ago, a fuel pump stopped working on my TR (connector issue), BUT, the car ran on the other 6 cylinders.

Since the FI is actually 2 separate sub-systems, why then is the Boxer not able to run on 6 cyl?

 

[Guest]

Acually Henry they will run on

Acually Henry they will run on 6 cylinders...

now IF your system still has the Aux. Pressure Regulator equalizer/crossover line still attached (like in the recent 400i thread) and one system has low or no pressure then the good side may not want to run...

there are likely other inexplicable reasons one side would be difficult to start from cold.

Regards, JRV

 

[Guest]

JRV: I am trying to get the B

JRV: I am trying to get the Boxer ready for fuel pressure testing, etc. It seems that everything I want to get at lies beneath the top intake manifolds.........WURs and thermotime switch. Should I remove these?

 

[Guest]

yes it might be easier to loos

yes it might be easier to loosen the WUR's and get them into an easier to get at spot...I don't take them all the way out... I just loosen the hold down brackets...

 

[Guest]

I see........thanks. I was ac

I see........thanks. I was actually referring to removing the top of the intake manifolds.