BBiignition

Henry,

I use a remote start

Henry,

I use a remote starter button, frequently...for testing on many cars. The one I use, made by Mac Tools, has an LED on it, so I know when it's hooked up correctly.

Set-up:
-Disconnect fuel pumps
-Ensure car is in neutral
-Unplug the "signal" wire from solenoid (This is the wire that comes from the ignition "START" position of the key, and engages the solenoid when the key is turned). Connect one lead of your remote starter to the solenoid, where the "trigger" wire was connected.

-Connect the other wire from your remote starter to the large diameter wire post, on the starter, that is always "hot". You can verify this with a voltmeter, with the key in the "off" position. One wire is always "hot" at the starter. Don't disconnect it...just attach your remote starter there.

You shoud be ready to engage the starter now...


Regards,
David

I put everything of the FI sys

I put everything of the FI system back.....installed new plugs. The car then started.......had to tighten some of the FD banjo unions slightly.

It soon idled at 1000 RPM, and ran smooth, as long as I didn't give it gas. When I did it backfired, and sputtered, but still ran.

I let it warm up.....idle was still OK. However, when I gave it gas, it backfired ever so slightly, and sputtered much less (than when cold). It revs freely to the upper ranges. It seems that the light backfire and sputter, only occurs at the start of the revving.......there is no backfire and sputter when the revs are up.

Does this sound like timing?

When the car died, a few weeks back, it wasn't all of a sudden, but after a few miles, it did backfire, and sputter, when I gave it gas........then finally died. This happened over a 10-15 minute period.

BTW: All last year the car ran fine. When I had it towed a few weeks ago, it was the first time I took the car out for the year. It started right up, and ran fine. I let it warm up, still fine...........drove it about 3 miles and started noticing something wrong.......made it 10 miles before the tow.......should have gone back home! It would seem the problem was caused by the sitting of the car, over winter!!

Henry,

yes Low pressure wou

Henry,

yes Low pressure would lead to rich running condition...

could be retarded timing....

but one symptom of lean condition on CIS is backfiring thru the intakes when the throttle is rapidly depressed.

In many of these cases there is more than one thing or combination of things that can cause simular syptoms. Timing is certianly a basic that needs to checked & verified periodically.

Henry:
I'm sure the Pros

Henry:
I'm sure the Pros have better methods, but for myself, would try to enrichen the mixture to see if the problem goes away.
Does the BBi have a Bosch Kjetronic system (w/Lambda sensor like the 328)?
If so then:
To verify an overall lean system condition (verses a single cylinder) you might want to hook your CSI up to 12V source thru a momentary contact switch. BTW on mine the polarity of the CSI input does not matter--CSI will fire either way) Pulsing the CSI will richen the mixture. If the problem goes away--there was a lean condition.
Also, you could disconnect the O2 sensor this would tell the computer that the system was running lean and bleed more control pressure off thru the frequency valve (enrichening the mixture). If this was too rich, you could put a half-dead AA battery in the circuit (towards the ECU only--O2 sensor does not like any voltage) to indicate a slightly richer condition (1.5 Volts would be max rich simulation).
The Probst book covers this well in Chap 5.2 Lambda control (Pg 22).

Good Luck (many times more important then skill!!)
Mark

JRV - I preface my comments by

JRV - I preface my comments by offering that your knowledge of things Ferrari is exceeded only by your willingness to share it. That said, I have a slight disagreement with your comment concerning bad gas. First, the only bad gas is gas containing water. Age will not effect your gas. Anecdotally, I have started vehicles up years after their last gas refill. No problem. Scientifically, other than evaporation, there is little that will degrade. Finally, octane is more a measure of "flash point", the temperature at which it will ignite, and achieved by creative impurities added to the petrol. I do not believe that octane will "degrade" (read decrease) with time. And even if it does, the consequence would be pre-ignition.

Look to things that man made or had his/her hands on. Nature did a good job with the petrol. The Celestial Design Committee worked a long time on this.

Jim S.

Past experience with fuel chec

Past experience with fuel checks in race cars has shown that fuel does change with age, and can do so very quickly. The lighter volatile,s evaporate out. Anyone ever had to clean the jets in a carburator that were full of gum? We have had legal race gas fail the electrolic test after sitting over night in the fuel cell. It gained just enought water vapor through the cell vent to fail the test. New reformulated gas does degrade and can also attack older fuel lines and other gaskets. My main thought in the "bad gas" comment was water in the gas. One of our trucks got a tank of gas/water and it ran like the Ferrari. And last year, we just about rebuilt everthing on my friends boat,Ignition,Carb's,wiring,Vacuum leakes and removed the intake manifold to see if it had sucked the gasket inside the port. Then, after running it out of gas testing it, we added new gas and no more problem. we were real proud of that deal Just trying to help,, Bob