[Guest]

Carbed BB decklid struts are o

Carbed BB decklid struts are over $300 each if you can find them, too much IMO considering BBi struts are $100.

Here's a solution I did, I purchased 2 Sachs Sg130006 struts from PepBoys for around $50 total, then take them to your favorite welder and have them cut off the rod end to match your old struts length, find some tubing the same diameter as the bolt on the decklid and have him weld it on the rod end my guy charged me $25, you can't weld on the end where the cylinder is as the heat will destroy the shock so I used 2 small plastic spacers from Lowes.


The rear clamshell now works as it should and stays up for under $75 total.

 

[Guest]

Good day Everyone,

Here is

Good day Everyone,

Here is another alternative to the excellent solution to the one posted by Jeff.

I have been working with LS Technologies (http://www.lstechnologies.ca/) on a strut solution for my 512BB. Sadly, the OEM ones are either very expensive or are unavailable. Consequently, LS Tech is a strut company that can recharge your old struts (for concours events, etc) or fabricate new ones. In my case, my strut seals were too old and brittle and so new ones were fabricated.

Anyway, I worked with Stephen and the results are fantastic and inexpensive ($80 each plus shipping).

The first pass of LS Tech struts worked fine, but were not very smooth upon starting and required the user (me) to exert a resonable amount of force to keep the deck moving until about 1/2 way open and then the struts would take over. Using these first pass struts and taking some force and distance measurements, Stephen then created another strut set with the following changes:

1. lower viscosity oil
2. Different internal seals to allow more fluid flow and
3. Increased the strut force (now 330 Newtons / approx 74 lb Force)

The results...Now, I simply engage the bonnet release and start the deck moving with a minimal amount of force (perhaps 5lbs or so). The deck starts lifting totally on its own and at about 80% of maximum opening, the struts decelerate in order to eliminate the deck "snapping" open.

Closing requires more effort, as one must overcome the strut force. However, I do not find it too much... perhaps 30 lbs or so. The deck slowly closes on its own and all that is required of me is to push down at the very end to engage the bonnet locks. In fact, the deck seems to seat itself much better now.

Also, I have attached some pics of these (512BB) LS Tech struts as well as the original BB 10mm strut mount shaft (Please forgive the odd pic resolutions).

Cheers,

Sam

 

[Guest]

Both good ideas, my only conce

Both good ideas, my only concern would be stress crack of some sort stemming from the preload the lid is now under. Mine still has the factory lifts and requires a good deal of lift to get it a foot or so open but after that it gets easy and once up requires a firm push to get it to move but I let it drop to latch it from about 6" to closed so I know there isnt much load on it when its closed.

 

[Guest]

Good day Paul,

From the use

Good day Paul,

From the use and testing I have done, no stress cracking is possible. The amount of force exerted on the strut's anchor points would not cause any undo stress on the mountings (74 lbs Force on a 10mm steel shaft). Further, upon full compression the struts have minimal mechanical advantage and so you do require an initial amount of lift in order to start the struts moving (extension).

These struts work so well, it is amazing. They start off, lift, and decelerate near the end of travel. There is minimal shock to the deck when it is fully open. Closing requires more effort than opening. However, the deck actually closes on its own once the deck is lowered to about 70 degrees, then a nice slow descent to the deck rests. Finally a firm push to engage the locks.

I am very happy with the results!

Cheers,

Sam

 

[Guest]

This is interesting. For me t

This is interesting. For me to have both rear deck locks engage, I need to drop the lid from a fairly high point. It won't lock if I push it from the stops - else risk bending something since the lid is so soft. Anyone else have to drop theirs to close it?

 

[Guest]

It's standard practice to

It's standard practice to drop the lid from about half way down to get both latches to lock, always has been. Same with the front, although that doesn't even always work on the front bonnet.

 

[Guest]

Thanks - that is exactly what

Thanks - that is exactly what I have to do. The front can be difficult and require an exta push, usually on the opposide side where it was dropped. How nice it would be if it just clicked in....if only the Germans designed the lids....

 

[Guest]

Good day Ted and JRV,

In my

Good day Ted and JRV,

In my case, I never liked dropping the bonnet...on any car not just a Ferrari. I always lower the bonnet and once seated, I press the area above the locks in order to engage them (confirmation click is heard).

I have to say though, with these "new" struts, the deck closes to the locks like it was German designed... a slow, deliberate, and engineered descent. However, I still need to press the deck in order to engage the locks, which is what I would always do anyway.

Cheers,

Sam

 

[Guest]

Sam,

Can they make them up

Sam,

Can they make them up for a BBi with the ball sockets on either end? I can leverage the R&D you have already done and get a set that I know will work

Thanks

 

[Guest]

Good day Ted,

You need to t

Good day Ted,

You need to talk to Stephen at LS Technologies (http://www.lstechnologies.ca/) to see what end attachments he has. He may ask you to send an original for him to match it up, however, if anyone can do it, it would be Stephen.

Also, if you wish, I can e-mail you a video of the rear deck opening and closing so that you can see the results.

Cheers,

Sam