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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After reading the BB tuner thr

After reading the BB tuner thread, and seeing "color-tune" mentioned as a method of determining the air/fuel mixture...I was wondering:

Could I use this method to get my TR "close" enough to drive the looooong distance to a service facility? If this question shows my ignorance please be gentle.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hi Jeff,

yes you can.

I


Hi Jeff,

yes you can.

I suspect your idle problem stems from the fact you plugged 2 critical intake leaks...throwing the mixture off to the rich side..the O2 sensors are fighting the overly rich CO...try unplugging your O2 sensors & see if the hunting stops.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks JRV I'll try discon

Thanks JRV I'll try disconnecting them and see what happens. That's very interesting about the color tune idea. I'll have to look into that one. Back to the 02 sensors being unplugged, will the computer go into some kind of limp mode due to lack of signal? Another thought I had is that the 02 sensors may be cross-connected. So I'll have check continuity from the wires to the specific connector pins, once I figure out which ones to check. One last question, are 02 sensors necessary for proper operation? It may be environmentally unethical, but I remember at a cruise night where a Porsche guy wanted to run slightly richer than the factory optimum. So he somehow rigged up a dummy signal to make the computer think everything was okay and therefor made no adjustments. Meanwhile he was able to richen up things to where he wanted, and removed the sensors completely.

And lastly thanks for listening to my ramblings.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Jeff,

contrary to popular p


Jeff,

contrary to popular porsche guy belief, simply making a motor run richer does not provide more power in sports cars like Ferrari, Lambo, Porsche, etc. Actually the most "power" is made running engines on the lean side. Now diring hard acceleration for a period more enrichment is neccesary...but these systems all have a built in enrichment circuit thru the throttle switch. The reality is a rich running motor washes protective lubricant from cylinder walls & intake valve guides which can cause premature wear, although different from the wear in the 355 thread caused by guides that are too short & too soft.

O2 sensors don't cause any harm or loss of power. When the throttle is depressed the TPS sends a signal that overides the O2 sensors..essentially running open loop until cruise is maintained again.

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jeff: Regarding the crossed O

Jeff: Regarding the crossed O2 sensor connections. The front FI ECU controls the left side of the engine, while the rear one controls the right side.

Unplug the connectors to the ECUs. Look at the connector going to the engine. Row 1-13 should be the bottom row, on both connectors.........the top row only has 12 pins. There should be a #1 next to the bottom row of pins, on the connector.

Pin #8 of the front ECU goes to the left O2 sensor........the brown plug to the sensor.

Pin #8 of the rear ECU goes to the right O2 sensor......the black plug to the sensor.

At least, this is how it is on my car. This was using my new 25-pin Ferrari tester!!!!!!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
LOL !! Hank your a life saver

LOL !! Hank your a life saver! You have just saved me valuable time having to look everything up. I truly appreciate it, as I'm gonna try and get the TR ready for our local car show this weekend. It's a 2 day event and gets 1500+ cars in the show field. I'm fairly certain I'll be the only Ferrari there. Sometimes an awesome Diablo comes down from Richland and creates a media event, really stirs the crowd up. Those cars have a lot of presence.


Thank You Again Henryk !!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Hank....well I check the re

Hi Hank....well I check the resistance from pin #8 and found that my O2 sensors are hooked up correctly. I expected there to be no resistance but I got 3k ohms? Both terminals at the sensor end of the wires seemed to tie in with the #8 pin connector, does this seem correct?

Oh and the new trans/diff fluid (Royal Purple) really did make a difference on the shifting quality of the car. It took 9 quarts of the stuff, and sticking my pinkie in the hole I was able to get fluid up to the first knuckle. I figured this was good enough and buttoned her up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
3K Ohms? Did you have the O2

3K Ohms? Did you have the O2 sensor completely disconnected, when you measured? This could be the resistance in the shielding that surrounds the wire, that goes to terminal #7, on both sides. They may be connected at the O2 sensor plug??????????????

Glad you noticed an improvement after the gear oil change.......did it get rid of the noise?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I completely disconnected the

I completely disconnected the sensors when checking the wires. But I was in a hurry to get back to work from lunch. So I will recheck the O2 sensor wires again tomorrow, just to be sure. The good thing is I at least know that the front ECU is hooked up to the sensor for the left bank, and the back ECU is hooked up to the sensor for the right bank.

As for the strange noise, it's still there, though now it seems less noisey. Maybe I'm making too much of an issue out of it. The car drove very well today, felt good, pulled strong on acceleration. Still has some idle issues, but they seem to be less erratic than before. I'm hoping that when I do the "color-tune" thing it will make an improvement. I'll keep you posted.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Check the resistance in pin #7

Check the resistance in pin #7.....going from the large connector, and the plug, with O2 disconnected. I wouldn't be surprised that this is where you are getting that 3K ohms, even though you are reading pin #8. If you do, no big deal.
 
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