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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As this subject comes up from

As this subject comes up from time to time, I thought I'd post some information I've gathered through the years....

Virtually all Ferrari from the 246 Dino through the BBs use the same CV joint and boots. There is no need to replace an axle assembly if you have a bad joint. Usually, due to the heat of the exhaust headers, the inner joints fail first. Typically symptoms can be vibration from the rear of the car, noises on acceleration, clanking type noises on turns...or the obvious CV joint grease all over the headers.

Once you've got the axle out, it doesn't take much time to clean, disassemble and inspect both joints. The joints are the same as early Porsche 930 (1976-1986?), BMW 6-series...LOBRO PN-C. or BMW PN-33 21 1 205 840. Sorry, but I can't remember what the CV boot (kit) crosses to. I don't believe its the same as the BMW...

There a "C" clip which holds the joint on the axle. Once the clip is removed, the joint can be pounded off...

Although the joints can be sourced from most Porsche suppliers, I purchased mine from Rutlands.
Joints are typically less than $150 each, boot kits around $30....and far less than the $1100 or so Ferrari gets for an axle assembly. As axle balance is not an issue, there's no good reason not to replace individual joints..


Discussion Starter · #2 ·
If I remember correctly the a

If I remember correctly the axle boots cross over to Porsche 928's....however Lamborghini designed a High Temp Boot for the Countach/Diablo that also fits and might be the better way to go on the inners.

Regards, JRV

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
David: Thanks for the info...

David: Thanks for the info......just in time. My inner CV joint is bad on the TR......grease all over the place. As I removed the large end of the boot, I noticed that the rim is "bent" some. I will be taking it apart to investigate further.

Are the axles for the TR and Boxer the same?

While other boots may fit, my concern would be of their thickness, especially the large end fitting. ANY thicker, and one may not be able to get a socket onto the bolts that attach the axle shaft.

Discussion Starter · #4 ·

thickness of the boo


thickness of the boots are really not an issue.

The procedure for removing/installing is whats important to access the bolts properly and as easily as possible.

Starting with removing an inner joint:

1- CV is positioned with first bolt positioned at 2 or 10 o'clock, which angles the boot folds out of the way, lock tab bent back on models so equiped, screwdriver or simular tool slipped into a rotor slot near caliper to lock everything in place, appropriate socket inserted on fastner (*tip, it is reccomended to use 1/2 inch drive) with appropriate extension, then break loose first bolt, but don't remove entirely. Continue around until all inner bolts are loose but not removed and left with a few threads engaged.

2- proceed to outer joint, with fasteners positioned at 5 or 7, lock rotor and loosen all fasteners completely but leaving 2 bolts slightly engaged in the joint opposite each other, then turn rotor and release all inners, then the remaining outers and wiggle axle out.

3- install axle in vice using soft jaws, remove inner & outer boot clamps and slide down axle, now all bolts can be easily removed.

4- remove snap ring and drive off CV joint, being careful to note the concave spring washer on the inside and the position of the slightly raised lip on the inner CV race. It is extremely important this washer and lip are reinstalled in the position they come apart (concave out/race lip in) as this is how the CV is held on with pressure.

5- after CV joint is removed the boot slides off the axle. If both joints are not being replaced the other boot can be taken off and replaced with just one joint off also. If both joints are being replaced make sure axle inner & outer & R&L are marked for same replacement.

6- to replace boots grease lightly the inner lip and slide over axle tip, (sometimes a scewdriver inserted thru the small opening and rotated around the axle end helps the boot pop on easily), slide the boot down the axle, install all bolts and washers/flanges, grease CV in & out, then install boots & clamps.

7- axle installation is reverse of removal

*Note: it has been found helpful to leave the small end boot clamp off to allow release of pressure that builds up inside the boots as they are heated up during use.

Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Henry & others using my re

Henry & others using my removal/installation directions.

Note that I wasn't perfectly clear, but the fastners are rotated to the 10-2 & 5-7 respective positions while removing /installing and not left in a single position.

Best, JRV
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