How much does my engine weigh

Hi Jeremy,

This past Summer

Hi Jeremy,

This past Summer, I finnished an engine and gearbox overhaul in my 365BB, so I can answer all of your questions pertaining to engine removal and service concerns....

Removal is fairly straight forward...

If you haven't done so already, here's the sequence of parts to be removed to facilitate easy engine removal.

1-Remove rear bumper
2-Remove rear deck lid (pull hingle pins, not mounting bolts)
3-Remove mufflers
4-Remove bellhousing and transmission input shaft
4a-Disconnect clutch cable/hydraulics
5-Remove distributor assembly, noting position of ignition rotor
6-Remove front headers
7-Remove rear headers
8-Remove LHS axle assembly
9-Disconnect RHS axle from gearbox (No need to remove unless servicing joints)
10-Remove the 4 large motor mount bolts (note: The front ones may not clear the heads while the motor is in the car...OK to leave in place, but must be unbolted)
11-Disconnect shifter rod, alternator wiring, speedo sensor wiring, oil pressure aand oil temp wiring.
12-Disconnect large water tubes at top of engine/thermostat housing, etc.
13-Disconnect brake booster vacuum hose at RHS intake manifold
14-Disconnect throttle cable from linkage and bracket
15-Disconnect water temp sender wiring in front of coolant overflow tank.

Lifting and lift points...
There are several ways to do this. As I have had my BB now over 20 years, the engine has been out a few time for service...and I have found that this method works the best out of all of them. First, the engine is nicely balance side to side...though quite tail heavy. Secondly, it is best to completely remove the AC compressor for two reasons. First, that (the AC bracket) will be your front lifting point. Secondly, the engine fits under the rear window shelf...and without the AC compressor attached, it's alot easier to remove the engine. I estimate the engine weight at about 700 lbs.

Typically, I'll drop a chain through the casting along the sides of the bellhousing for the rear mounting points. For the front, I'll use the heaviest wire rope I can find....and loop it through the holes on the AC mounting bracket. Be sure that the AC bracket is securely tightened to the block before lifting. There are three bolts...two adjuster bolts, and one large diameter pivot bolt. Once the chains and wore rope are attached, I use an engine leveler bar to secure the engine to a cherry picker.

Lift the engine abut an inch or so....ensuring that it is level on both axises. If not, lower the engine back on to the mounts and adjust the chain or leveler to achieve balance. It's pretty important that you can lift the engine level. Once level, lift again...about 6-10", or so. Now, pull back on the engine assembly, until the rear motor mounts are just about hitting the rear chassis upper support braces. You'll need the engine this far back, as the front crank pulley just clears the rear window lower lip. It's best to protect the rear window and sheet metal, as a small slip can be costly. Once the crank pulley has cleared the window lip, continue lifting until the rear motor mounts clear the rear part of the frame....

Although I do this without help, the first time around it's best to have a helper watch the front of the motor, while you watch the rear. The fit is reasonably tight, but the engine can be removed without any damage to the chassis...

I'll look for the pictures I took of my engine R&R, and will post them later today.

Regards,
David

David,

Thanks very much - g

David,

Thanks very much - great info. I've got some follow-up questions:

I've removed the distributor cap but left the distributor in place. Is it really necessary to remove it at this stage?

What do you mean by "headers"? - this might be one of those Anglo/American differences in English.

Any tips on removing the water pipe that attaches to the front of the engine? - it looks impossible to get at.

I've detached both axles from the gearbox but found that whilst the RHS axle moves out of the way quite easily, the LHS axle is still in the way. Is this why you suggest removing it all together?

The AC unit attachment bolts also seem pretty tricky. I was planning to leave this in place, but as you've no doubt discovered it's a bit difficult to see an obvious way to wrap chains around the front of the engine.

I might have screwed up with the rear deck - I took the hinge bolts off. It didn't occur to me to remove the pins, so I guess I'm in for some fun when it comes to lining it up again!

I don't think my crane will handle 700lbs. It's rated to 3300 lbs but can only handle 550 at full extension so I guess I'll have to get a bigger one. Anyway, all that's left are the pipes to the oil tank, the front water hose and the AC unit so hopefully it won't be long now.

Jermy,

Removal of the compl

Jermy,

Removal of the complete distributor is up to you, but I find that (with it out), there's just a bit more clearance to work with...

Headers->Exhaust manifolds??

Water pipes...Oh, what joy! I leave the alu pipes in the car, but cut the rubber hoses off. No need to remove those pipes...Remember that there are two hoses, at minimum that you'll need to remove. Sometimes, it is easier to cut the rubber hoses underneath, and in front of the engine...instead of at the top of the engine.

As the LHS axle is somewhat recessed into the transaxle, complete removal gives you "wiggle" room to pull the engine. As you've found, the RHS can stay in the car.

Yes...getting the AC compressor off is a rear pain, as those (3) bolts underneath the plate can be tough to get to. If you loosen the two adjuster bolts and the large pivot bolt, the AC bracket can be angled upwards which "might" make it a bit easier to remove the compressor.

Ahhhh yes...Aligning the deck lid. I learned my lesson the first time around. Not too big of a deal! Just a bit of patience, and she'll line up just fine.

I find that if I raise the car slightly on a lift, I can use the cherry picker at it's middle extention (1500 lb capacity) without a problem. It's important to have the car securely supported on the lift, as she'll get real light in the rear once that motor is lifted. I've never worried (OK, maybe a little bit) about her falling, nose first off the lift...though one can easily lift the rear end up without the engine in the car.

The alternative to not removing the AC...is to sling the heads with webbing. I've done it this way, as well. Other than removing all the carbs and accessories on top of the engine, balance was always a real problem...

Once you're ready to lift, watch carefully the rear most motor mounts...as thet can get very close to the alu trim pieces along the wheel wells.

Great fun, really!

Regards,
David

Details of lift points...

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Details of lift points...





Thanks Jeff...We all know, far to well by now, that the factory documentation to work on these cars is nil, or near useless. I actually enjoy working on these cars, particulary since, of late, I've been spending time on "Project Lotus...from Hell". Dinner...in the Spring sounds good to me!

Regards,
David