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Discussion Starter #1
I have used 20W-50 in my 308 Q

I have used 20W-50 in my 308 QV since I have owned it year round and was wondering if that is still the best thing to do. My manuals all say 20-50 but I wasn't sure if there was a service bulletin or not. Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Rich,

normaly OM's give


Rich,

normaly OM's give a climate chart for oil Vis use.

Down here (TX) it's 20/50 yr round, but it could be different where you live.

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Anything below 45 degrees I pu

Anything below 45 degrees I put a foam plug in the oil cooler inlet to keep the oil temps up where they should be and run the same weight oil year round here in Seattle.

DJ
 
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Discussion Starter #4
The last service bulletin that

The last service bulletin that I can find (on-line) anywhere says that the recommended oil and weight is Agip Sint 2000 10w-40 which is a semi-synthetic oil. Ferrari of Seattle said at a tech session last summer that the current Shell Helix 5w-40 is recommended now. That is, it is completely backwards compatible as far back as the 308 series.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Has anyone ever installed an o

Has anyone ever installed an oil thermostat valve to bypass the oil cooler? Seems like a good idea.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I have used Castrol GTX 20/50

I have used Castrol GTX 20/50 in everything I have owned – year round (except the 2000 Expedition – Mobile 1 10-30). I have never been aware of issues with it – at the rate I go through it I should be buying stock in Castrol. I live in the foothills above Sacramento – we see 100+ for much of the summer and as cold as the 20s in winter.

I do not believe in long life oil, not because the oil breaks down, but because it gets dirty.
I have always believed that the black stuff in the oil – carbon – is an abrasive and as the abrasive content in the oil increased, the wear on the engine also increases. So I change the Mobile 1 out every 3000- 4000 miles as well as everything else. (The C4 holds 17 quarts.)

Aaron
 
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Discussion Starter #8
i have a '80 308 GTS carb

i have a '80 308 GTS carb with a cracked distributercap. Does anybody know wich options there are for replacement, for instance, i know the Alfa Montreal uses the same but comes as equaly rare. Here in Holland the F-dealer asks a
stonisching 500 euro's for it, wich is as much as the same amount in dollars. may be some one can help me out. Thanks from a Dutchman
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Marcel,
Best to start a new t


Marcel,
Best to start a new thread when making a change of subject. To answer you, there are only two choices for distributor caps for the 308. Reproductions or the original equipment cap. Reproductions sell for around $250 US dollars(and someone posted last year of having one prematurely fail over on the Ferrarilist), but recently, I have found that Ferrari UK is selling original OEM Marelli caps for very close to the same amount. Register on the Ferrari Owner's Site, and you will be able to order parts on-line from Ferrari UK.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I have been trying to figure o

I have been trying to figure out when the weight of the oil matters most. For example, when engine is cold, during start up, which weight is best

0W-30
5W-40
10W-30
10W-40
15W-50

All of the oils I researched seem to say:
"especially suitable for extreme conditions" So I do not worry about freezing or blistering heat as much.

I do want to have what is best for the engine during startup. Trying to figure that out between the hype and advertisements seems to be difficult :-(

--tony
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Tony,
Perhaps your question i


Tony,
Perhaps your question is the most difficult and controversal question ever posted on F-talk...as there is just so much hype, and self-proclaimed experts on this subject, as you have found.

When all else fails, let's look at what the factory recomends, and go from there...Also, what are the minimum ambient temperatures where the vehicle is located...

From your list, I use 15-50 Mobil One in my BB, year-round...though the car is only started and driven in the warmer months.

Extreme cold conditions might dictate a "thinner" oil, as most of the engine wear occurs during start-up. On the other hand, I totally disagree with running a 5-30, or 10-30 oil in a high-reving engine...as some have proclaimed to be "OK".

I do agree with the statements that thinner oils flow better, hence lower oil temperatures. Hoever, I feel that "thicker" oil provide better lubrication qualities (shear protection) at higher revs, and resulting engine temperatures.

So...a balance is in order to protect for all conditions...

Regardless of what oil is ultimately used, frequent changes are still the best protection against engine wear!

Regards,
David
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks David! My local mechan

Thanks David! My local mechanic happens to agree with your logic. When we put the tubi in my 355, I wanted to change the oil. Per JR's recommendation I tried to get Royal Purple but could not get any in time so the mechanic used Mobil 1 15-50. I was worried that it was too thick at low temperatures. (It does get into the 40's here in Monterey during winter.)

The car seems to be OK, at startup the oil pressure is around 105. Once it is fully warmed up the pressure drops to about 50 at idle and it is about 70 at 3000 RPMS. At 8000rpms it is around 105 again. Do these sound about right? I think the manual recommened 10W40 but Mobil 1 did not make that blend.

--tony
 
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Discussion Starter #13
I believe the current spec oil

I believe the current spec oil for the 355 is a 5w-40 (Shell Helix). Mobil 1 comes in a 0w-40, which would have been a closer match.
 
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