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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm currently doing a rebu

I'm currently doing a rebuild on my 2v 308. I just thought I'd share some pic's...









 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Great pictures! Any particular

Great pictures! Any particular reason for the rebuild? Is this coolant on the valves?

Regards
Harry
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The car was staring to use mor

The car was staring to use more oil then normal so I figured it's time for a rebuild. But then main reason was to get rid of the sodium filled exhaust valves that the 2 valve cars have. They are prone to breaking.

The coolant you see on the head was just a result of removing the head from the engine. The head gaskets did look like they were on there way out though.

The heads are getting all new stainless steel valves and guides from SIvalves.com. Great people to deal with. Talk to Lee if ever you need anything from them.

The cylinder liner's look almost perfect. So I'm still debating on whether to re-ring or just leave it alone.

I did a compression and leakdown before pulling the engine and the leak down was only 6% so I think the rings are fine. I also put varsol in the cylinders with the heads off to check for any leak down and nothing leaked past the rings.

Tom
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Tom,

not trying to cause


Hi Tom,

not trying to cause you extra expense, however, the excessive oil consumption found on early 2V FI cars WAS traced to improper ring issues from the factory.

And YES, one can see Head Gaskits going bad on these old 308 engines. I think more & more engine work is in the not to distant future for 2V cars.

A note on loading pics: After each pic has loaded, click the 'enter' key twice and load the next pic. This way they will line up striaght down the page.

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the pic loading tip

Thanks for the pic loading tip.

Well then maybe the ring's should be replaced..I would hate to have gone this far only to have the same problem. Thanks for advice.

Question regarding the rod bolts...are they a onetime use only or can they be reused. If they can't be what do you recommend for a replacement?

Who do recommend for rings?. Not sure if I want to use the Ferrari rings if they have not corrected the problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Tom,

I've heard seve


Hi Tom,

I've heard several versions of "the story" about why the early 2V's used excessive oil, from rings installed upside down, to rings were just plain wrong for the application. It is documented however that Ferrari replaced some (as few as they could get away with) early 2V motors under warranty for excessive oil consumption.

I always use new rod bolts, even though they are not stretch bolts like Porsche uses.

If you decide to go with rings Perfect Circle makes what you need I believe.

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Beauty..Thanks for the tips...

Beauty..Thanks for the tips...Greatly appreaciated. It's funny but this is the fisrt 308 engine I've had apart!! I've done 355,348,and a head job on a TR but none on the 3x8 seires cars! I think you're right about them starting to need overhauls.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Tom

I agree with the previo


Tom

I agree with the previous posts, GREAT PICS and GREAT WORK. Thanks for sharing. I hope I have enough pics etc. to do the same for my Testarossa rebuild which is almost complete.

One question though, what did you use to get the aluminium so clean? I have been scrubbing away with a rotary wire brush and steel wool for days and days, thinking to myself there MUST be a safe chemical cleaner for aluminium, any advice?

Steve
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Steve,
When I rebuilt my BB e


Steve,
When I rebuilt my BB engine last year, I cleaned the block with mag wheel cleaner...though I understand that NAPA has a product specifically designed for cleaning alu. When the block was finally cleaned, I lightly painted it with VHT high temp alu paint...



Regards,
David
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I notice Tom's 308 engine

I notice Tom's 308 engine is attached to one of those typical engine stands, but not the BB engine. Am I right in assuming that the normal stands are not suitable for the 12 cylinder engine?
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Steve U..Too get the aluminum

Steve U..Too get the aluminum clean I used engine degreaser to get the heavy stuff off,with a stiff bristel brush and a bunch of rags. After I used Super Clean to get in the nooks and crany's. I also power washed the entire engine while it was in the car before I removed it.

Thanks for the comments guys!!

Tom
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Guys,

the 12 cylinder block


Guys,

the 12 cylinder blocks will never look like the 308 blocks because they are cast different and the 308 blocks are of a different aluminum alloy. The 12's are sand cast and made with magnesium content leaving a somewhat rough outer appearance, while the 308 blocks are pressure cast aluminum leaving a smooth shiny outer appearance. That's why the 12's were painted from the factory & the 8's not.

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Upper Right Corner is the type

Upper Right Corner is the type stand I use for the Flat 12's, I have other simular 4-point set-ups I use for the V12's.
http://www.pinnaclemotorsports.com/refs.html


The common V8 Stands are not adequate to hold a 12 until it is fully stripped down with the heads off. 12's are long and heavy and it's very risky to try and support that much wieght from the bell housing studs alone.

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for all your advice guy

Thanks for all your advice guys, my engine is relatively clean, but has a few dark marks, like stains in the aluminium that I would like to remove.
David, I’ll give mag wheel cleaner a shot and if I’m lucky I’ll have a result as clean as yours. Tom, too late for me to power wash the engine, it’s already out and apart, but I will also check out Super Clean, can you tell me where it is available? I did an internet search and you can imagine how many things came up with super clean. JRV your point is taken on the differences in the casting and metals between the 3x8 and the 12’s, but I’d be happy with a block as clean as David’s.
Regards
Steve
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Steve.... Super Clean is made

Steve.... Super Clean is made by Castrol(same as the oil company.

I removed one piston today to have a look at the rings. The rings (on that piston anyway) don't look too bad..but the con rod bearings will need to be replaced


 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well it looks like I'm goi

Well it looks like I'm going all out on this rebuild. I going to replace all bearings and rings. I have priced out everything and will order all the parts on Monday.

I was pleasently surprized with the price of the parts...not bad at all!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi guys,
For getting the &#3


Hi guys,
For getting the 'open pore' aluminum clean on my 308 I used NAPA brand Aluminum Brightner, part number 765-1458. It consists of hydroflouric acid and sulfuric acid. It sizzles when it goes on and removes corrosion, oil and fuel stains. I use it last in the process of cleaning an engine before reassembly. Not recommended for polished aluminum. I use Mothers Mag Polish (cream).

This is the process I used,
http://www.ferrari-talk.com/discus/messages/30/756.html?1073693391

Don't forget to read the disclaimer in the last entry.

DJ
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
DJ,

when I started reading


DJ,

when I started reading your excellent cleaning tips I was about to come back and ask you to post it in the Tech Archives for easy reference later....then I saw your other post below the first one...LOL....yes ..glad it's there!!

 
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