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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those that are interested.

For those that are interested....here are some pics of the engine so far. Many little details to complete yet, but I'm getting there. It is very rewarding doing this work, I only hope she runs as good as she looks!



 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jeff,

outstanding job..Brav


Jeff,

outstanding job..Bravo on your patience, diligence and attention to detail. Your engine looks better than a Factory Promo Glamour Shot !!!

Are you going to enter your car in Concours events or show it?

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You guys are the greatest! No

You guys are the greatest! No concours for my car as the rest of it isn't up to standards. It's a nice car, but has a few chips here and there. But at least when I open the bonnet I won't have to give excuses for the grubby engine anymore.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Way to go Jeff. I was going t

Way to go Jeff. I was going to post pictures of my TR engine, after the major, but now I won't........they would be embarassing, compared to yours!!!!!! Since, I am not repainting everything, as you are.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Perfect! Just look at those li

Perfect! Just look at those little brass tubes (I don't know much about engines), just shining, and the way the Red Heads meet up with the, what, the cylinder bank? Is that the right term? Annyway it is a work of art, just like racing these cars is both a sport and a form of art...*sigh* just you wait, someday I will own one of these...
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Again I bow to your praise! T

Again I bow to your praise! Thanks Everyone!

The motor is nearly completed now, and I will post pics of it all together this week sometime - so stay tuned. Right now I'm wrestling with getting new plug wires and stuff. Sad thing is with everything else bolted up, most of the detail work is not visible anymore. But at lease I know it's perfect under all that crap anyway. I only hope she runs as good as she looks!
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Clean and detailed engines run

Clean and detailed engines run better. They also give more power. Its a scientific fact! Ever see a winning F1 or sportscar with a filthy engine bay?

Looks great, congrats!
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jeff,

Don't you just lo


Jeff,

Don't you just love Terry's statement...and agree? I must say that ever since I just "cleaned up" my BB engine, the car has never run so well!

You've got alot to look forward to...!
Really nice job, Jeff.

Regards,
David
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes I agree....I wonder how mu

Yes I agree....I wonder how much is mental and how much is real? I'm sure that cleaning things internally like the intakes and air meters may help improve the engine running, any external cleaning is just for our perceptions. Funny thing, a Bowtie friend of mine has a really mean '63 Nova with a 421" small block with a holley on it, and it's a total pig....but man does that thing run! The owner's an artist for engine building and tuning, but mentally challenged when it comes to appearances. I think the last time he had it at the track on skinny 8" street tires and lots of wheel spin he ran an easy 11.26 at over 128mph through mufflers. Big power but no traction. It sure makes for a lot of fun!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Jeff

If you don't mind


Jeff

If you don't mind divulging your secrets......What the heck are you using to get everything so amazingly clean? The brass tubes are incredible and the block and heads look better than fresh castings.

Your engine is gorgeous! Congratulations.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Steven...I was hoping t

Thanks Steven...I was hoping to have more pics of the finished motor up by now...but ran into a bit of a snag making new plug wires. I bought 8mm wires that will fit the original sleeves okay, but not into the plug boot, I tried everything but it's a no-go. So tomorrow I'll order some 7mm wire - darn! As far as cleanliness...it's painted. The factory painted the blocks kind of a dull or semi-gloss silver color. Can't seem to find it anywhere so I just used aluminum paint. I did have the block as clean as I could get it prior to painting, but even then it just didn't look all that good. I believe you can also use some type of aluminum "brightener" to get a nice appearance. But as time goes on aluminum gets dull and oxidized, so I elected to use paint. The brass tubes are in fact steel fuel lines that used to be zinc plated. I would have simply got new lines if they weren't so expensive - like $900. No way are they worth it....so I looked all around to find a paint that matched zinc plating...nothing out there. But I did find some yellow anodizing spray that was close but not gold enough. Finally a combination of yellow anodize and gold paint resulted in what you see. I had to polish (many hours)the lines up first or the dark blotches would just show right through the paint. I'm surprised it turned out so well, but I wouldn't want to do this job again. I also purchased all new nuts, bolts, and washers were feasible. This ended up being quite pricey too, but the results are worth it. The bottom line is it just takes hours of work, good preparation, and patience. When I get the motor complete and ready to install I'll post more pics and descriptions. Till then if you have any questions please just let me know and I'll be happy to answer them if I can.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Excellent job Jeff. Your atten

Excellent job Jeff. Your attention to detail is remarkable. Can't wait for more pics.


Jeremy
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey,

How did you remove the


Hey,

How did you remove the entire subframe? Just wondering on your home proceedure.

Thanks
James
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hello James....removing the wh

Hello James....removing the whole subframe is how the TR engine-out service is done, so it's that way by design. Actually it's a pretty well thought out system. Since I have no lift I use floor jacks and a dolly to roll the motor around on. You must be cautious using jacks and stands, but if you exercise good safety precautions things will be okay. Getting the rear of the car high enough to roll the motor out is a challenge. I jack the rear as high as I can get it and then lower the nose of the car slowly until there is clearance for the motor....it takes about 40 to 42 inches from the floor to the frame rail that runs across the rear of the car. I should have taken a pic when I had my car "nosediving" at a 30 degree angle...really scary looking.
 
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