G
Guest
·James & Coach,
post upd
James & Coach,
post updates here
Regards, JRV
post upd
James & Coach,
post updates here
Regards, JRV
Poor Running 512BBi
1 - 20 of 87 Posts
G
Guest
·Just to update...
I found t
Just to update...
I found the cover and removed the plate. I see the pointer, and found the scribe marks on the flywheel...but I can't tell if there is a degree index somwhere else? But, when we started the car, you can see a white mark on the flywheel around where the marks are etched, which seems to coincide with the timing pointer. We loosened the distributor bolts and rotated the cap, and it did retard the timing. The mark did change, however I'm not sure where to get my 10deg reading from?
Idle *did* lower, and we were able to achieve 1250 rpm when re-adjusting the banks with the 2 gauges/screws. While at 1250 RPM, it looks like the mark is about 1/2" to the right of the pointer (retarded) but want to get your direction on achieving 10deg (what is PMS?...I know TDC but not PMS, excuse the ignorance
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) static.
Thanks!
James
I found t
Just to update...
I found the cover and removed the plate. I see the pointer, and found the scribe marks on the flywheel...but I can't tell if there is a degree index somwhere else? But, when we started the car, you can see a white mark on the flywheel around where the marks are etched, which seems to coincide with the timing pointer. We loosened the distributor bolts and rotated the cap, and it did retard the timing. The mark did change, however I'm not sure where to get my 10deg reading from?
Idle *did* lower, and we were able to achieve 1250 rpm when re-adjusting the banks with the 2 gauges/screws. While at 1250 RPM, it looks like the mark is about 1/2" to the right of the pointer (retarded) but want to get your direction on achieving 10deg (what is PMS?...I know TDC but not PMS, excuse the ignorance
Thanks!
James
G
Guest
·Hi Guys,
PMS is TDC in Ferr
Hi Guys,
PMS is TDC in Ferrari speak (Italian).
The 10-12 degree mark is about a 1/2 inch to the left of TDC (PMS)
PMS is TDC in Ferr
Hi Guys,
PMS is TDC in Ferrari speak (Italian).
The 10-12 degree mark is about a 1/2 inch to the left of TDC (PMS)
G
Guest
·AH....
There is a PM1-5 mar
AH....
There is a PM1-5 mark on the flywheel that we can see. It's colored with a green dot. So, is that PM 1 thru 5 degrees? If so, we need to go to the left (advance) to get the mark on the pointer? Sorry, it's really hard to read the marks on the flywheel. Left as in I'm standing behind the car looking at the words PM on the flywheel...I turn the distributor, is PM10 listed on the wheel?
There is a PM1-5 mar
AH....
There is a PM1-5 mark on the flywheel that we can see. It's colored with a green dot. So, is that PM 1 thru 5 degrees? If so, we need to go to the left (advance) to get the mark on the pointer? Sorry, it's really hard to read the marks on the flywheel. Left as in I'm standing behind the car looking at the words PM on the flywheel...I turn the distributor, is PM10 listed on the wheel?
G
Guest
·Ok Guys,
Yes the PM 1-6 is
Ok Guys,
Yes the PM 1-6 is TDC...turn the motor off, then with a flashlight handy, turn the engine over with a screw driver until the PM 1-6 mark is in the hole, then put some paint directly on the mark, then turn a little more and mark the 10-12 degree mark with paint...then start the engine with easy marks to read and adjust as necc. to get the timing as close as possible (hopefully spot on).
JRV
Yes the PM 1-6 is
Ok Guys,
Yes the PM 1-6 is TDC...turn the motor off, then with a flashlight handy, turn the engine over with a screw driver until the PM 1-6 mark is in the hole, then put some paint directly on the mark, then turn a little more and mark the 10-12 degree mark with paint...then start the engine with easy marks to read and adjust as necc. to get the timing as close as possible (hopefully spot on).
JRV
G
Guest
·The marks are 1-5 and 7-12. I
The marks are 1-5 and 7-12. I really don't understand what these numbers stand for...and there is a green mark between the 7-12 (the dash) and the 1-5 (the dash). Anyhow tired of trying for one day...7 hours straight..where do I need my timing light to show the dash between 7-12???
Thanks for all of your help
The marks are 1-5 and 7-12. I really don't understand what these numbers stand for...and there is a green mark between the 7-12 (the dash) and the 1-5 (the dash). Anyhow tired of trying for one day...7 hours straight..where do I need my timing light to show the dash between 7-12???
Thanks for all of your help
G
Guest
·You must align the mark 1-6 &#
You must align the mark 1-6 (your 1-5) with the little pointer at idle (1000 rpms). The 7-12 mark shouldn't be in view of the timing light when he engine is running.
You must align the mark 1-6 (your 1-5) with the little pointer at idle (1000 rpms). The 7-12 mark shouldn't be in view of the timing light when he engine is running.
G
Guest
·It is important to get the tim
It is important to get the timing set correctly for the idle and mixture to ever be correct. All these adjustments play directly on how an engine runs. It is not possible to have a proper running ebgine unless all these systems are correct and working together.
Yes it takes awhile to learn the differences between what we are seeing and what we should be seeing. But once this portion of the learning curve is established you should be able to move ahead faster and easier.
Regards, JRV
It is important to get the timing set correctly for the idle and mixture to ever be correct. All these adjustments play directly on how an engine runs. It is not possible to have a proper running ebgine unless all these systems are correct and working together.
Yes it takes awhile to learn the differences between what we are seeing and what we should be seeing. But once this portion of the learning curve is established you should be able to move ahead faster and easier.
Regards, JRV
G
Guest
·Then we had it right. Coach, y
Then we had it right. Coach, you can check the timing again and re-tighten all the way, but it should still be dead on the green 1-5 mark.
Then use my gas tester after the static idle is set to get the FD's leaned up a bit.
We did make progress! Car ran better today than I have ever seen (not that I have ever seen it that much LOL)
James
Then we had it right. Coach, you can check the timing again and re-tighten all the way, but it should still be dead on the green 1-5 mark.
Then use my gas tester after the static idle is set to get the FD's leaned up a bit.
We did make progress! Car ran better today than I have ever seen (not that I have ever seen it that much LOL)
James
G
Guest
·James,
if possible you need
James,
if possible you need a little advance..the mark should be just slightly left of the PM 1-6 mark...another scribed line on the flywheel.
I'm sure even TDC (PM) is better than it was and it will allow for other adjustments although they will be a tad shy of dead nuts. But well within range to finish diagnoising the issues.
Regards, JRV
if possible you need
James,
if possible you need a little advance..the mark should be just slightly left of the PM 1-6 mark...another scribed line on the flywheel.
I'm sure even TDC (PM) is better than it was and it will allow for other adjustments although they will be a tad shy of dead nuts. But well within range to finish diagnoising the issues.
Regards, JRV
G
Guest
·I think it is best to work on
I think it is best to work on a problem, then stop and regroup. That is what I am doing now...got tired of smelling CO for 7 hours...hahaha. Of course we were quite well ventilated since we were working outdoors...but it was a ton of fun. I love working on cars when progress can be felt. Thanks JRV and James...you guys have been a lot of help. Tomorrow, I will attempt a small step forward...and I will post again if I make that step of progress
I think it is best to work on a problem, then stop and regroup. That is what I am doing now...got tired of smelling CO for 7 hours...hahaha. Of course we were quite well ventilated since we were working outdoors...but it was a ton of fun. I love working on cars when progress can be felt. Thanks JRV and James...you guys have been a lot of help. Tomorrow, I will attempt a small step forward...and I will post again if I make that step of progress
G
Guest
·Hi Coach,
does it still fir
Hi Coach,
does it still fire up after yesterdays fun and games?
Regards, JRV
does it still fir
Hi Coach,
does it still fire up after yesterdays fun and games?
Regards, JRV
G
Guest
·Oh yes, it fires up first time
Oh yes, it fires up first time every time...the timing was a bit advanced, we retarded it, and I think we have it almost right...I will test it again tonight. It is idling at 1050 right now...but the Hg is reading 14-14 pounds. If I boost it, it idles too fast. I will return to it this evening and readjust FD's...will post...one thing I noticed it does not backfire as bad any more...thanks for your continued help and interest
Oh yes, it fires up first time every time...the timing was a bit advanced, we retarded it, and I think we have it almost right...I will test it again tonight. It is idling at 1050 right now...but the Hg is reading 14-14 pounds. If I boost it, it idles too fast. I will return to it this evening and readjust FD's...will post...one thing I noticed it does not backfire as bad any more...thanks for your continued help and interest
G
Guest
·By the way JRV,m when we loose
By the way JRV,m when we loosened the distributor and twisted it back and forth, we noticed an oil drip right below it. When we tightened it back up, it stopped. What caused the oil leak?
By the way JRV,m when we loosened the distributor and twisted it back and forth, we noticed an oil drip right below it. When we tightened it back up, it stopped. What caused the oil leak?
G
Guest
·Hi Coach,
The Distrib splin
Hi Coach,
The Distrib splined drive shaft has a rubber oring that holds back the oil pressure from the rifle drilled oil pressure channel in the camshaft and the Distrib Base Plate has an Oil Seal in it, so when the Ditrib is loosened one or both of these sources can allow some oil to drain out.
Later on if the leak persists it will be neccesary to change them out.
BTW- it's was actually a lot of fun for me yesterday also using the internet to monitor a long distance job in more or less real time...interesting and fun experiment!! {
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}
Regards, JRV
The Distrib splin
Hi Coach,
The Distrib splined drive shaft has a rubber oring that holds back the oil pressure from the rifle drilled oil pressure channel in the camshaft and the Distrib Base Plate has an Oil Seal in it, so when the Ditrib is loosened one or both of these sources can allow some oil to drain out.
Later on if the leak persists it will be neccesary to change them out.
BTW- it's was actually a lot of fun for me yesterday also using the internet to monitor a long distance job in more or less real time...interesting and fun experiment!! {
Regards, JRV
G
Guest
·Longest running thread to date
Longest running thread to date, I am proud LOL
James
Longest running thread to date, I am proud LOL
James
G
Guest
·The results of my last effort:
The results of my last effort:
(1) I have timed this sucker a few mm to the left of TDC,but when I do that I cannot get the idle below 1700 RPM as indicated by the Ferrari tach. Fooling with the air screws (idle) don't seem to work to slow the engine down any further
(2) both left and right banks have about 16 lbs of vacuum; however the 1-6 bank has its air idle screw much further in (almost closed) compared to the 7-12 bank. Cannot screw them in any further without messing up the balance between the two banks
(3) The CO is as close to 1.2 as possible on both banks
(4) the car is idling too fast
(5) It is still backfiring
Could all this be caused by a faulty rebuilt FD? I bet is I took the plugs out, the 1-6 bank will have fouled brand new iridium plugs.
What to do next?
Send the FD back to be rebuilt?
Or retard the timing to get the idle down? If I go 1/2 cm to the right of TDC it seems the engine quiets down quite a bit.
Help!!!!!!!!!!
The results of my last effort:
(1) I have timed this sucker a few mm to the left of TDC,but when I do that I cannot get the idle below 1700 RPM as indicated by the Ferrari tach. Fooling with the air screws (idle) don't seem to work to slow the engine down any further
(2) both left and right banks have about 16 lbs of vacuum; however the 1-6 bank has its air idle screw much further in (almost closed) compared to the 7-12 bank. Cannot screw them in any further without messing up the balance between the two banks
(3) The CO is as close to 1.2 as possible on both banks
(4) the car is idling too fast
(5) It is still backfiring
Could all this be caused by a faulty rebuilt FD? I bet is I took the plugs out, the 1-6 bank will have fouled brand new iridium plugs.
What to do next?
Send the FD back to be rebuilt?
Or retard the timing to get the idle down? If I go 1/2 cm to the right of TDC it seems the engine quiets down quite a bit.
Help!!!!!!!!!!
G
Guest
·Coach,
Unfortunately it sou
Coach,
Unfortunately it sounds like all your adjustments are fouled up more than I was hoping.
For the idle we now have to digress, unfortunately.
With the engine off several basic checks will now have to be performed. This involves checking and resetting the linkage and the "throttle Butterfly screws". Follow the center linkages outward and you will find the throttle plate screws, one on each side, well under the maifolds. Two things must now be done, 1- the linkages must be free and the same lenght side to side, 2- the throttle stop screws must not be holding the butterflies open by more than 0.05mm. I suspect these screws have been turned, opening up the throttle plates to far and/or the linkages are holding the throttles open.
Check those and let me know what you find.
Regards, JRV
Unfortunately it sou
Coach,
Unfortunately it sounds like all your adjustments are fouled up more than I was hoping.
For the idle we now have to digress, unfortunately.
With the engine off several basic checks will now have to be performed. This involves checking and resetting the linkage and the "throttle Butterfly screws". Follow the center linkages outward and you will find the throttle plate screws, one on each side, well under the maifolds. Two things must now be done, 1- the linkages must be free and the same lenght side to side, 2- the throttle stop screws must not be holding the butterflies open by more than 0.05mm. I suspect these screws have been turned, opening up the throttle plates to far and/or the linkages are holding the throttles open.
Check those and let me know what you find.
Regards, JRV
G
Guest
·So strange JRV...this car has
So strange JRV...this car has only 9000 KM on it, and I have owned almost since day one. It ran great for a long time, it is just in the past 16 months that I discovered it had a problem as the FD got stuck, the fuel pump on one side died and I had to have FD rebuilt and a new fuel pump put in. Tests were performed by a qualified Ferrari mechanic and fuel pressures were right on.
I will check on the linkage to see if indeed that is the problem and will post tomorrow if I get it done.
Thanks again.
So strange JRV...this car has only 9000 KM on it, and I have owned almost since day one. It ran great for a long time, it is just in the past 16 months that I discovered it had a problem as the FD got stuck, the fuel pump on one side died and I had to have FD rebuilt and a new fuel pump put in. Tests were performed by a qualified Ferrari mechanic and fuel pressures were right on.
I will check on the linkage to see if indeed that is the problem and will post tomorrow if I get it done.
Thanks again.
G
Guest
·Coach,
Although I agree with
Coach,
Although I agree with you, as to the so strange comment...I remember years ago a TR coming into my shop with all sorts of running, driveability and backfiring issues. This car had too been recently serviced by a reputable shop. We went down the same road, thus far...as you have. Initially we felt that there was a major fuel injection problem with the car, based on the way it ran, even though the car had very low mileage. The short story, after spending considerable time with this car, with heavily qualified ASE Master Techs...was that "someone" had turned/messed with every single adjustment posssible, in a feeble attempt to "adjust the idle" speed.
I'm not saying that there's not an FI problem. What I am saying...and that I suspect JRV is thinking...is that "all" of the baseline settings must be checked and verified before going any further. Although somewhat of a PIA, it's very reassuring to know precisely what your baseline actually is, before possibly condeming expensive FI components. Simple things first, as I have learned working with these cars...
Your on the right path...and I'm confident that you'll/we'll get you car sorted out.
Regards,
David
Although I agree with
Coach,
Although I agree with you, as to the so strange comment...I remember years ago a TR coming into my shop with all sorts of running, driveability and backfiring issues. This car had too been recently serviced by a reputable shop. We went down the same road, thus far...as you have. Initially we felt that there was a major fuel injection problem with the car, based on the way it ran, even though the car had very low mileage. The short story, after spending considerable time with this car, with heavily qualified ASE Master Techs...was that "someone" had turned/messed with every single adjustment posssible, in a feeble attempt to "adjust the idle" speed.
I'm not saying that there's not an FI problem. What I am saying...and that I suspect JRV is thinking...is that "all" of the baseline settings must be checked and verified before going any further. Although somewhat of a PIA, it's very reassuring to know precisely what your baseline actually is, before possibly condeming expensive FI components. Simple things first, as I have learned working with these cars...
Your on the right path...and I'm confident that you'll/we'll get you car sorted out.
Regards,
David
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