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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ran the codes on my 91 348ts

I ran the codes on my 91 348ts. Both sides said "1121". That was all they had to say. I cleared everything out. Bad thing....the manual I bought on ebay is missing the meaning of this. Can anyone tell me what the code means? Thanks in advance JRV and Ernie!
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hot wire air flow meter 1111

Hot wire air flow meter 1111
Engine coolant temp sensor 1112
Throttle potentiometer 1113
Lambda sensor 1114
Lambda regulation Additive value for self adaption 1211
Lambda regulation multiplicative value for self adaption 1212
Lambda regulation intake manifold compensation 1212
Valve 4111
Injection valve 1 1411
Injection valve 2 1413
Injection valve 3 1414
Injection valve 4 1412
RPM sensor 1121
Stroke sensor 4112
Power module not used 4113
Battery voltage 1122
TDC control unit recognition 4114
Secondary air solenoid valve 1123
Purge valve 1124
Catalyzer temp ECU 4121
Catalyzer temp to high 4122
Speedometer signal 4123
Short circuit on idle regulator 1311
Open circuit on idle regulator 1312
No error detected 4444
M.I.L. 1444
Electronic control unit 1313
Compressor connection signal 4131
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is so funny! When I did m

That is so funny! When I did my 30k service a couple weeks ago, I really gave it a good cleaning. Well, those RPM sensor connectors were very brittle and fell apart. I tried to re-wire them and clean it up...but I guess I did not do a great job. I have 2 questions for you all....These are the RPM sensors at the crank, correct (not the one in the rear of the cam)? Also....the RPM sensor goes into the main wire harness....so what do I do? Splice it in? Thanks for your help!
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the manual states that the rpm

the manual states that the rpm sensor will throw a code when checking with the SD2, does it also show the code through on-board due to the motor not running?

Regards, Brian
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
good question....I am not sure

good question....I am not sure about that though. I think it should show either way. Maybe someone else knows.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You will always get the rpm se

You will always get the rpm sensor when checking the codes when the engine isn't running. The reason is because the engine isn't turning over and the ECU isn't recieving a signal from the sensors. So you will always get that signal with the engine off. Did you make sure that those were the only codes in the ecu's? Did you remember to go to the next code until you got nothing but long flashes?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, I went to the next codes

Yeah, I went to the next codes, and it indicated that it was done....so I guess that is a goood sign. Got a new battery...everything is runngin great. Thanks!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How does one check the codes o

How does one check the codes on a 348 TS? I have a problem with the car's engine shutting down. Sometimes I can start it some times I can not start it until I disconnect the battery. Any idea's what may be the problem?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i have a 1991 348ts,i,ve been

i have a 1991 348ts,i,ve been getting check engine 1/4 after 20/30 mints into driving,it comes and go,my most problem is she keeps dying on me when i stop. i pulled these codes1211,1212,4121,i don,t know what the real problem is?i thought it has to do with o2 sensor,does anybody have an idea?thanks bijan
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Most people think that 4121 me

Most people think that 4121 means that your Exhaust ECU has gone bad. They typically suggest swapping your left side exhaust ECU with your right side. If making that swap changes your problem from Check Engine 1/4 to Check Engine 5/8, then you know that you've found a bad component.

Sometimes, you can connect and extra ground wire to your O2 sensor ground to fix this problem. Othertimes you can connect an extra ground wire to your exhaust ECU ground to fix it. You can also disconnect both exhaust ECU's so that you can at least drive your car without the engine getting shut down when you stop.

Of course, replacing the exhaust ECU's is the other option.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Have a look at the connections

Have a look at the connections for the Mass Airflow Sensors. Make sure they are clean and connected properly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i like to thank ernie and no d

i like to thank ernie and no doubt,for their help.i got one of the universal o2 sensors for about 60 dollars from advance auto,and replaced it,the 1/4 light went out,and hasn,t died on me yet.thanks guys....bijan
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
[i]"i got one of the unive

"i got one of the universal o2 sensors for about 60 dollars from advance auto,and replaced it,the 1/4 light went out"

Just for reference, the local Chrysler dealership quoted me $220 to replace an O2 sensor on my wife's Jeep today (in the shop for an A/C charge). No thanks!

Like you, I'll be swapping it out for the $60 universal part. Easy fix. Heck, it's easier to change O2 sensors than spark plugs, and that's E A S Y!
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hi guys,can anybody tell me wh

hi guys,can anybody tell me where is the location of a/c to add freon to it.i have problem of finding it.it is for 1991 348ts.thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
hi ernie,thanks for all the ad

hi ernie,thanks for all the advise.my next question is i need to get oil tank plug assembly,it is loose dripping oil,and can,t get it out,do you know any ferrari spare part shop,who has reasonable prices?thanks in advance.p.s 1991 348.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If you are talking about the t

If you are talking about the tank in the right rear, you have a few options.

During your next oil change, look to see if the threads are stripped. If they are in good condition you probably need a new washer. If they are stripped you have a few options.

1) Take the bottom off and have a mchine shop tap a new hole. (this is what I did). You will have a different size plug though.

2) Have the same shop helicoil the plug hole. This will allow you to use the standard drain plug.

3) Get a brand new cover and drain plug.

With any of the above suggestions you will also need to get a new gasket for the bottom. It is only a few dollars. While to bottom is off you will want to take the opportunity to clean out the oil screen.

I suggest 1 or 2. When I had the shop tap a new hole, I think it was $20 or $25 with a new oil plug a nylon washer. No leaks to date.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
hi ernie,thanks again.yes it i

hi ernie,thanks again.yes it is oil reservoir.i was going to get the cover and drain plug,but they had to order it,for the cost,you can imagine.i am going to do,what you told me to do to get it fixed.thanks......bijan
 
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