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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I have a snapped main


Hello,
I have a snapped main engine release cable on my 88 TR, I have pulled the handle off, and all engine guides off, but it seem's stuck!! Will not pull free?? Any ideas??
Thank's..Robert
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Your going to have to partly r

Your going to have to partly remove the trim panel below the seat belt retractor. Pull the door weather strip off of the door frame and you will see the small trim piece that wraps around underneith it. It's glued on so you will have pull very gently as to not rip the leather. Once that piece is removed you will see the remaining screws,to get the panel just enough out of the way. You will also have to remove the parking brake console. Once these peices are out of the way use electrical tape and tape the new cable to the end of the old one starting from the inside of the car. Slowly pull the cable from the engine compartment and it should come through with the old one. It may get stuck in the engine compartment were it travels over the rad on the left side. Stick you hand in there and help it through.

Just keep trying you'll do it!!

Tom
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tom,
If it was easy, i


Thanks Tom,
If it was easy, it just would not be fun!! (I guess)...???
Take Care..Robert
 
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Discussion Starter #4
RBO: Are you removing the who

RBO: Are you removing the whole cable, WITH the sheathing? I am assuming that the sheathing is stuck. The sheathing doesn't have to come out.

My 88TR engine release cable broke last summer. I left the sheathing alone, and just ran a new wire through it........no problem. I had to re-machine the new cable into the eyelet that attaches to the handle.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Hey Henry,
I ordered the new


Hey Henry,
I ordered the new cable, I figured I would replace the whole cable, but it would be a lot easier to just run the wire!! How did you re-machine the new tip on??
 
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Discussion Starter #6
RBO: My cable broke near the

RBO: My cable broke near the handle. I clipped off what cable was left at the eyelet. Then I placed the eylet in a vise, and used a 1/16" end-mill cutter, in my vertical mill, to drill a hole in the eyelet where the wire ran(about 1/4" deep). One could have used a drill press........I don't need one, since the vertical mill can also be used a precision drill press.

I bought "aircraft" wire (1/16") at the local hardware store........it is multi-strand, limp wire......just like the original.

I slipped one end into the eyelet, and used the side of an Allen wrench, with pointed end down, and tapped it with a hammer. This was also done on the other side, slightly lower than the first dimple. This held the wire in place.

I then slipped the end into the tube, by the handle, and it cam out at the back.

Total time: About 1 hr

Total cost: About $2
 
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