Tips on TR waterpump rebuild

1937 Views 6 Replies 0 Participants Last post by Jeff Green, Mar 30, 2004

Discussion Starter · Mar 29, 2004

My parts arrived today for fix

My parts arrived today for fixing my TR's oil leak, and while I'm at it I decided to get the waterpump rebuild kit. I welcome any helpful tips and hints as to the procedure for doing the waterpump. The shop manual isn't much help. Thank You in advance for your advice.

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Discussion Starter · #2 · Mar 29, 2004

Hi Jeff: There are 2 seals.

Hi Jeff: There are 2 seals. The outer one goes against the brass impeller.......rather easy to change, except for the end facing the engine. It is pressed into the front cover......little room to pry it out. The second seal is even deeper, and it is one of those rubber seals, with "spring". Since I had the front cover off, I was able to do this easily. The spring side goes towards the engine, and it bottoms out on an e-clip. Don't take out the bearing........too hard with the cover on. Have the new seals in front of you so you have a better understanding of how the out seal goes in.

Good luck.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 30, 2004

Thanks Henry...I seem to have

Thanks Henry...I seem to have a lot of parts, like inner and outer bearings and all kinds of stuff. I will lay it all out on an exploded view of the water pump assembly from the shop manual. Is removing the water pump from the motor simply unbolting it and sliding it forward? Is there any issues with the chain drive?

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Discussion Starter · #4 · Mar 30, 2004

Jeff,

Although I'm not

Jeff,

Although I'm not familar with the TR chain drive set-up...the Parts Manual, if you have one, is very helpful in determining assembly order. I suspect the guts are similar to the BB...in which case I can provide guidance.

BTW, I have a new TR parts manual, if you need one for reference.

Regards,
David

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Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 30, 2004

Jeff: No problem with the cha

Jeff: No problem with the chain drive. Even with the front cover off, I did not have to fool around with the chain drive..........even though it was very visible. Remove the front water pump cover (two 13mm nuts), and pull it off. This exposes the impeller, which you will want to remove also. Then, you will have access to the outer, and inner seals.

There are "two" types of outer seals.....that go against the impeller.........an early one, and a later one.........my 88,5 TR used the later one. Yours may be the early one?????????? The early one is one piece, while the later is two piece.

Don't forget to get a new O-ring for the outer cover.

BTW: The bearings, both inner and outer, where fine, on my car. It seems that they are constantly bathed in oil, so it is hard to see them go bad..........both of mine where fine.

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Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 30, 2004

Jeff: If you want to replace

Jeff: If you want to replace the bearings, then you will have to seperate the block from the trans, so that you could remove the front cover.........do you really want to do this?

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Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 30, 2004

Thanks Henry for the run down

Thanks Henry for the run down on this. I'm not gonna split the motor/trans. So basically I will be replacing the seals, doesn't sound so bad. Oh....my new front main seal does have the garter spring in it, just like you said it should. I would have sent it back otherwise. So it looks like I have a couple of water pump bearings as paper weights...oh well they may come in handy some day. I have heard horror stories of mechanics taking water pumps that didn't leak, replacing the seals, and then having them leak. Are there any special sealers to use during this job? It doesn't seem like it. Quite straight forward and simple. (I hope)

David....Thank You as always for offering to help. I do have a cheapie reprint parts manual. Your right, they are great for showing order of assembly.

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