[Guest]

I have a 1989 TR and have a fe

I have a 1989 TR and have a few question to start with the A/C didnot worked in my TR when I purchased it, I first started with the blower fan and I now have that working. The nest problem is my temp willl not chance from hot to cold and all I already have a new Power transistor and I also purchased a Potentiometer switch (temp selector). Can anyone give me some hint on what to check on next. I don't hear any motors or anything mechanical sound when I turn the temp switch from hot to cold. Everything else works in the TR . I do have the entire interior out of the TR including the dash for minor leather repair and I wanted to get it 100% before I put anything back. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Guest]

Ron,

do you have the servic

Ron,

do you have the service manuel?

Do you have any Freon in the AC system?

Have you confirmed that the wires to the circuit board are not burned or melted?

Have you updated the AC relays to the Bosch plastic 151's?

Regards, JRV

 

[Guest]

I do have a service manual the

I do have a service manual the wires look good going into the circuit board actually I had a loose one that caused the fan no to work. Yes there is Freon in the A/C system. As far as the A/C relays No ,where do I get Bosh platic 151's. Thanks for your help I appreciate it. I would think when I turned the dial to cool I would at least get a warm or cool air but all I get is HOT!! Let me know what you think.

 

[Guest]

Hi Ron,

on the circut board

Hi Ron,

on the circut board the AC & AC Fans relays will need to be upgrade to the black plastic 151 units...try AW a sponsor here...if Frank doesn't have them I do.

If you are getting only Hot air it sounds like the heater valve is staying on, check this condition by feeling/measuring Temp on both sides of the valve...and we need to know if the AC "ompressor" is actually turning on when you turn to cold settings. IF there s sufficient freon and the dryer mounter pressure switch is good you should hear the compressor clutch click when set to cold and you turn the key on & off..also yo should get 12V's at the compressor + wire. Usually in these circumstances the circuit board/wies at circuit board/relays are most suspect, but each part of the electrical path along the way must be checked to see where & how far the electricity is flowing.

 

[Guest]

I plan on getting into this A/

I plan on getting into this A/C problem tonight . First I wanted to thank you for your help. I just checked the Dryer element and the eye at the top is not green I take it that there actually is no freon in the system I checked it quickly on the actual compressor to see if it had pressure it did but I think it's just air. I will need to suck the old out and convert it to the 134A do you know where the low pressure side is so I can recharge the system. I will buy those relays off you you let me know where to send the $ my e-mail is [email protected] if you have pay pal I can directly send it to you. Last question where is the heater valve. The A/C compressor is NOT kicking on at all. I worked on A/C systems in all my other car but this ones a little different. By the way what color should the eye be on the dyer element. I was thinking green. Anyways tonight I'm working on this till it's fixed my leather pieces should be back this week so I can put the interior back in it's alot easier working on the A/C when the dash is out. I'm glad I had a good reason to remove the dash otherwise this would be a big pain to do again. Thanks again.

 

[Guest]

I found the heater valve how d

I found the heater valve how do I check it? I checked it with a test light and nothing. Also checked the A/C for pressure looks like it really is fully charged but I don't understand why the Dyer element isn't green or a blue color. As you know I have the dash out there is a switch at the to right corner where the heat blows out I pressed the switch and I think I hear the A/C compressor kick on. By the way I was checking those fueses I think I have a fuel relay fuse that's about to go bad so thanks for telling me to check them could be a possible problem later that I will resolve now. Next question there are 2 valves on the A/C compressor which one is the low pressure side I take it that the one that is easy to get to without taking the black heat vent off is the low and the high side one you must take the black vent off. Just wondering. Sorry for all the question I'm just trying to break this all down.

 

[Guest]

Hi Ron,

the sight glass wil

Hi Ron,

the sight glass will be clear until the AC copressor is running. On AC systems, the Large Lines are always the Low Side. Personally I wouldn't change to R134a unless absolutely neccesary, R12 is still quite plentiful..

> I pressed the switch and I think I hear the A/C compressor kick on.<

You should be able to click the compressor clutch on and off with the AC controls set to "on" the key on and jumping the 2 wires at the "pressure switch" on the top of the dryer. Before runnng the engine with the compressor on make sure there is freon in the system..the High Low Pressure switch is to protact the compress from to high or to low of pressure.

 

[Guest]

Ok here's some details
Th

Ok here's some details
The A/C system is 100% charged I checked it with a gauge so that's a great start The A/C compressor will kick on only when the windscreen button is pushed the first button(climitized air) and second button (ventilation air) will not kick the compressor on . Also when the A/C compressor does kick on with the windscreen button pushed it will only blow hot air even if the temp dial is turned to cold. The temp adjusting switch is new the power transistor is new. Do you think it's the relays. I plan on getting those new ones but I still think it's something else. Shouldn't you hear a motor turning the door when adjusting the temp dial? I guess the best things is that the A/C compressor works this is something simple it's just drving me crazy. Let me know what you think you were a great help so far . I figure the more info I give maybe someone out there had the same problem or has a idea of something else to look at. Thanks again.

 

[Guest]

Just had a idea, since I have

Just had a idea, since I have the dash out I forgot that the passenger side temp sensor is disconnected and still connected to the dash which is out of the car. Would this need connected to make the sytem work properly and possible be causing my heat issue. I won't be putting the dash in for about a week just wanted your thoughts. Thanks

 

[Guest]

Rin,

sorry for the delayed

Rin,

sorry for the delayed reply.

I had loaned out my TR SM, got it back today.

As the TR climate control systems can be a little complicated to diagnois compared to old fully manual systems, the WSM contains a lenghty & comprehensive section on diagnoising just about any and all faults, including testing values for every component of the system. If your WEM doesn't contain this AC chapter & the corresponding diagnostic chart the let me know and I'll brung the book home and go thru it step by step.

Regards, JRV

 

[Guest]

I just got it all back togethe

I just got it all back together last night I picked up my dash parts that look like new again and installed them also plugged everything back together ,I had a coupe loose wires got those taken care of through a long process of elimination. My A/C and heat now works I learned alot about how this system works. The heater valve was not stuck. The interior now looks flawless and I have A/C. I wanted to thank you VERY much for you help. Today I'm doing the drivers side valve cover it's leaking Bad. This is what you get when you buy a 8,000 mile Mint TR that sits too long . I'm still happy I bought it but trying to get through these issues so I can enjoy the TR. Thanks again

 

[Guest]

Hi Ron,

glad to hear things

Hi Ron,

glad to hear things are coming along well ! I'm sure you'll enjoy having a nice well sorted TR when you're done.

We can't always answer every question, but we're always here for moral support

Regards, JRV