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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I finally went for a test

Well I finally went for a test drive today after re-assembling the TR. So far no leaks from the water pump or the front main seal. But there are some nagging issues I'm not sure how to tackle. There is no facility close to me to tune the car, the closest being about 120 miles away. So I would like to get a "reasonable state of tune" prior to the long road trip to a facility.

Idle issues: The car seems to "hunt" for a stable idle speed, going up and down in rpm's with each peak high and low getting worse until the motor dies. But it doesn't do this all the time, and I can't find a common set of circumstances to predict when it will do it. Just sometimes yes and sometimes no. I did back out the air bypass screws a bit and that helped a little, they are now at about 1.5 to 2 turns out from closed. Sometimes idles rough and rich, and other times smooth as glass. Using 2 vacuum gages can I balance each side at this point or does the fuel mixture need to be set first?

Srange "growling or howling" from the front of the motor: I think it might be the alternator belt but not sure, it sounds more like a bad bearing. It only makes noise at a couple of rpm ranges, not all the time. I loosened the alternator belt tension just a bit thinking maybe I had it too tight....no change.

Noise like a "bad tire" on coasting in rear of the car. Or like a bowling ball going slowly down the alley rolling over the finer holes. The car didn't have this noise when last driven that I can recall. No pulling or pulsing when breaking. The noise goes away when slight acceleration/deceleration. Wheel bearing? Are these a pain to fix?

Installed plugs into the fuel dist. adjustment ports. These have been missing since I've owned the car. With the holes plugged performance is considerably better. I was also hoping for this to help the erratic idle....but it did not.

Lastly...what product out there is good for cleaning all electronic connectors and terminals? Also...I think I've heard that there is a connection "enhancer" product on the market?

Not feeling as good as I thought I would even though the car is running again. Kinda bummmed about these new issues, and wondering if this car will ever be problem-free. I welcome any and all opinions good or bad. And Thank You for taking the time for responding.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
How much you want for the car

How much you want for the car as is?
Just kidding!!

I feel your pain. Just keep a level head and things should go your way. The hunting issue seems to be a balance issue between the cylinder banks. I would also check the function of both air bypass valves to make sure they are both opening at the same rate.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think the hunting issue is o

I think the hunting issue is one of a vacuum leak somewhere. Spray some propane gas at connections and see if the RPMs change.

I would adjust the balance first, then do the CO A/F adjustment......then re-adjust the balance, if necessary. That is how I did mine.

How about the A/C belt for the howling?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would think any of the elect

I would think any of the electrical contact cleaners from CRC or Wurth would be fine. The contact enhancer that many use is Stabilant 22. The easiest and cheapest source seems to be the local VW dealer...that's where I picked some up, based on previous recommendations. It is also available at NAPA, though typically a bit more expensive. Neither is likely to stock it, so it will have to be ordered.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank You all....here's my

Thank You all....here's my latest findings:

The "bad tire" noise was in fact the right rear wheel not completely seated on the hub. Very slight (and I mean slight!) play or wobble, not much at all. I removed the wheel and cleaned all surfaces, applied copper anti-seize, and re-torqued the wheel. Sound is gone.

The alternator belt is fine, and my AC comp. is removed right now for eventual rebuilding, so that's not the "growling" sound. But I think it is coming from the gear box area....but very hard to tell. The car did not make this sound last year as I recall. I will check the fluid level but first gotta buy the appropriate wrench, it looks like a 12 or 13mm allan wrench for the plug. Now for my next question:

I am wondering if I have the shifter linkage adjusted correctly. I can go through all gears fine although a bit notchy. Is it possible for the shifter to be out of adjustment either rotationally or longitudinally and cause a slight meshing of gears, resulting in the noise?
If not....and a fluid fill/change does not help, then I have some serious problems down the road. Perhaps the dread TR gearbox debacle is rearing it's ugly head? If so then my Ferrari and I may be headed for a divorce. I will go play around a bit more and see if anything affects the noise.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATE: All the stores are cl

UPDATE: All the stores are closed so I couldn't get the appropriate allen wrench for the gearbox plug, so I took a bolt and ground down the head until it fit snug, and then jammed 3 nuts on the bolt, and used a wrench....worked good! Anyhoo....I took the plug out, and stuck my pinkie in there as best I could but couldn't get any oil on it. My car is not level right now, the front end is about 4 inches lower than the rear and this may be the cause? I think my next course of action is to change out the gearbox fluid. I'll start searching past posts on this subject. I also welcome any suggestions and tips if any on filling up the gearbox. Thanks all for your continued support.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Why change it........isn't

Why change it........isn't it new from the major? I would just level the car and add more, to the proper level.

Fill it through the top hole in the transfer gear case, behing the clutch. Fill slowly, to allow time for it to enter the crankcase.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Since I have had the car it ha

Since I have had the car it has not been changed. I would "assume" it was changed as per the paperwork history....but with as much trouble as I've had with this car, I skeptical. I did install new trunk shocks the other day, sure is nice to have that thing stay up by itself now. I'll level the car tomorrow and check again. If the oil looks and smells okay perhaps I will just top it off. Do you fill until it's just at the bottom of the sight hole? It's wierd that you look through one hole to check the oil level but fill oil through another hole?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Since it was not changed, then

Since it was not changed, then do it now........changing all fluids is part of the major service......you will now have a baseline for future changes.

You fill the transfer case, and wait till the oil seeps out the hole where you checked for the level. Let it come out till it stops, then wipe it up, and re-install the plug. Again, it takes time for the oil to go from the transfer case to the crankcase, so do it slowly, especially at the end.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Hank....will do. I rea

Thanks Hank....will do. I really hope this makes a difference.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The onwer's manual states

The onwer's manual states to fill the main gear case through the sight-hole, and then after that add 17 pints to the transfer gears. Does this sound correct?

Also...how much total oil is needed? My manual states 1 quart ?!?! I think they meant maybe 10 quarts?
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I believe the total is 9 liter

I believe the total is 9 liters, and 0.17 liters, of that, go into the transfer gear hole.....this is from dry, so you will add less. I think I used about 4-5 quarts total, to re-fill.

A liter is slightly less than a quart.

The oil in the transfer gear case connects to that of the gearcase, and sits higher then that of the crankcase. When one fills the transfer case, it will only take so much, and the rest will flow into the gearcase. I believe even Ferrari mechanics do it this way. Maybe someone else can verify this. I have done it this way to both cars, and had no problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Hank....I'll follow

Thanks Hank....I'll follow your advice, makes sense to me. I also see from past posts that you used Castrol "Hyoy C" 75W-90 in your gearbox. I think that's what I'm gonna do too. I appreciate your help.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Glad to help.

My concern is


Glad to help.

My concern is the "growling and howling" in the front of the engine. The only bearings I recall, from there, would be those of the water pump. Maybe it takes time for them to get "refilled" with oil........then it would go away in short order.......I sure hope so!!!!!!!

My first guess was the tensioner bearings, but they where replaced with new ones.

What other bearing are there?
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I still suspect it's the g

I still suspect it's the gear box. I have "felt" around the motor, and the water pump seems fine. You are correct in that the tensioner bearings are new. Again this noise isn't constant but occurs around 1500 to 2000 revs. I would think the water pump would be well oiled by now as I've test driven the car for maybe 10 miles. Could I have driven the inner seal in too far against the snap ring and be "squeezing" the bearings? I have no idea.

Well I ended up getting Royal Purple lube for the gear box...it was on sale at the local auto store! I couldn't believe it....but the guy said it's because nobody around here buys the good stuff and they have to move it. I now need to get the proper crush washers, unless I can re-use the old ones (?) and will refill it tomorrow. Once the car was level some fluid did drip out the sight plug. I removed both drain plugs, and cleaned the magnets up real good. That stuff sure is stinky in there!
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You can't drive the inner

You can't drive the inner seal "too far".......the inner seal "stop" stops that. The snap ring stops the bearing from going too far out. Besides, the bearings, as I had mine off where sealed.....I just took a guess in saying that they need to be filled with oil.

The good news is that: you didn't have this problem before, and you really didn't do anything to disturb the trans. Maybe you just need new gear oil.......as you now have. Let's hope so.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi Jeff,

I too, had a nasty


Hi Jeff,

I too, had a nasty noise in my fresh BB engine towards the end of last year ...After a bit of head scratching, it turned out to be the worn, though looking good, Gates polyflex belts which drive the alternator. I'm not 100% sure yor TR uses these types of belts...

As to the potential transaxle problem...The failure typically occurs in the diff end, and sounds like really loud snow tires. FYI, I use RP in my gearbox...and it shifts better cold and hot than my new M3!

Noises can to tough to diagnose...A mechanics stethescope might be a helpful tool, in this case.

These cars are, at times, a bit finicky...and can be a royal PIA. And the and played on....

Best of luck,
David
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks David for your input.

Thanks David for your input. The alternator belt on my TR is ribbed, wide and flat. I'm fairly certain it is okay. The noise is towards the right side front of the motor. I'll keep everyone posted.
 
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