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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After installing the engine, I

After installing the engine, I proceeded to replace a fuel return was split longitudinally at the engine end. Well, what a PITA, trying to remove this hose!!!!!!!! I ended up breaking the nipple off the fuel tank.

Enough of this!!!!!! I had the engine in with only a few bolts, so I removed it. I will replace ALL the hoses, and have the fuel tank fixed. I may as well remove the radiators (all 3), etc., and have them checked out. I plan on removing the oil tank, both fuel tanks, and all hoses.

The fuel tanks will be cleaned and tested, as well the radiators. I will also sand blast, prime and paint the whole area.

I feel this project will take the rest of the year. Oh well, I still have the Boxer.......hope to get it running in the next month.

Anyone know a source of metric fuel and water hoses?

Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I feel your pain brother. Whe

I feel your pain brother. When I had the engine out of my 348, I pulled the drivers side radiator. It looked like someone had jack the car up in the wrong spot, causing the radiator to be pushed up. The radiator was fine, but the bracket that holds it in place was bent. I fixxed it and push the bottom back down. It is just fine now.

A little tip. Get yourself a nice shop stool. It makes working in that area alot more comfortable.

Look at it this way Henry. It's better to do it right, or you'll just have to do it again.

Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Here the scoop on hos


Here the scoop on hoses:

For all water lines, I use only Gates Green Stripe hoses...with Zebra clamps from Wurth.

For fuel lines, other than the odd-ball sized ones, I get them from Wurth, as well. For smaller hoses, I use Norma clamps.

Here's my contact at Wurth...a long-time friend for over 20 years.

Jim Rosa
(800) 526-5228 x540 Voice Mail
(585) 752-0168 Cell
[email protected]

A couple of notes...
With Wurth, there's always a minimum quantity...
Jim was instrumental in procuring most of the hardware/hoses, etc. I have in my shop. Feel free to mention my name...A great guy to do business with!


Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Hank...the same thing happe

Hi Hank...the same thing happened to me on the right side gas tank. I ripped off both nipples for the vapor hoses going to the charcoal cannisters when trying to pull the tank to fix a leak on the front side. Those braided hoses are really tough to work with. Is it possible to use simply a high quality rubber fuel hose in place of the braided stuff?

Also...if you pull both aware that the air conditioning system goes through the right side tank, so you will lose charge. I found out the hard way. This little known fact doesn't show in the manuals.

Discussion Starter · #5 ·
David: Thanks for the hose so

David: Thanks for the hose source.

Jeff: The "braided" hose is only braided in cloth. It seems that it just got VERY hard, after all these years. I will use David's source for hoses. My plan is to use a scalpel knife, and cut through most of the hose along the fitting......I feel this should work.

The A/C didn't work before.....I figured it would be re-charged after the major. Did the fuel tank come out easy?

Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes...the tanks do come out ea

Yes...the tanks do come out easily. I don't know if you'll need new o-rings or not for the A.C. fuel tank fittings. I did replace mine at that time. Being the moron I am I ruined my AC pump by running the belt, but not having a charge in the system. So the pump received minimal lubrication and then started making a terrible racket. So off it comes for rebuilding or replacement....when ever I get around to it.

Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am taking a he

I am taking a here are some pics.


Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, the gas tank is fixed an

Well, the gas tank is fixed and are both the re-cored radiators.

While waiting to have things done, I separated the block from the trans case.......again. This time it was because I forgot to install the two rear nuts (attaching the block to the trans), by the crank. These must be installed while the block is being lowered to the trans, due to the length, and tight fit.......they cannot be installed once the block is sitting on the trans case!!!!! I thought of grinding the studs down, but decided not to. The whole job took about 2 hrs (of course, the headers are still off)........I am getting better at this!!!!!!!

With the axles already removed, I removed the axle support on the left differential side. This allowed easy installation of the long stud, going into the block, just above this support. Interestingly, there is supposed to be an O-ring at the base of this bolt........there was there is.

I installed the engine in the car last night. I have to order a few small gaskets, and get more copper washers. Today was spent hooking up the oil, water, coolant, etc. lines.

I still have to install the headers, axles, clutch and housing, etc.

Hopefully it will be ready in a couple of weeks.
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