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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, it's out!!!!!!! Now

Well, it's out!!!!!!! Now I can sit on a stool, working on this thing.

Overall, it wasn't bad.......'A walk in the park'.

If anyone needs help with a TR engine removal, feel free to ask either Jeff Green, or myself....we are both willing to help.....of course, there are others, on this forum that will also help.

NOW........for the MAJOR!!!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Way-To-Go Henry !!!
Boy that


Way-To-Go Henry !!!
Boy that does look familiar! That sets on your dolly very well, good working height. Now you can remove that darn ol'e air pump and hardware too, just have to buy (or make as I did) block-off plates for the bottom of each cylinder head. I hope you've taken a picture of the front of your motor..I'm a bit fuzzy on how the brackets go for the alternator and air cond. pump and may have to pick your brain a bit. We'll see when I start assembling everything. Tonight is Fuel Injection Night in my house. I recently bought a book off ebay about Bosch systems and am going to read it on this lousy rainy cold (temps in the low 40s) night. And then work on the TRs air meters and fuel dist. lines to spiff them up a bit. And lastly repaint the air meter/fuel dist. base.

Removing a TR's engine is really a straight forward procedure, and well thought out. But it's still not for the faint of heart to try. You must have some mechanical skills and use common sense, and most of all be organized.

Good Job Henry!
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jeff: I took a number of pict

Jeff: I took a number of pictures of the front of the engine......this was due to all the wire routes I want to preserve upon instal. If you need help, just let me know. I do plan on removing the pump, and will machine some plates.

Are you taking the FD off the air sensor?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No...I'm leaving them toge

No...I'm leaving them together. I'll have to post a pic when I get done. Since you mentioned wiring routes around the engine, I may do some rerouting of some wires to clean up the appearance of the engine if possible. One thing I do not like is where the wire harness connects to the aux. air valves (I think it's them) , the wires go outward between two intake tubes and then makes a sharp 180 back to the aux. air valve, it's a very sharp bend. I wish there was a less stressful way to doing that. We'll see in time I guess.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Henry, CONGRATS !!!

That st


Henry, CONGRATS !!!

That stand looks like it worked out just right. Sure will make t easier to conduct engine service business.

Way To Go and Best of Success!

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now for the FUN stuff!!!! I s

Now for the FUN stuff!!!! I started by taking off the A/C compressor and the alternator. The 17 mm bolt holding the support brackets for the above two BROKE at the head.....the 19 mm bolt at the bottom of the compressor stripped the hole on coming out.....both due to corrosion. Now I will have to remove the water pump casing as I plan to use Heli-coil inserts. I haven't removed the belts yet.

Should I turn the engine over, to align the cam marks before I start taking the crank pulley, and water casing, off? I would plan to loosen the pulley bolt first.....then turn the engine over to align the cams. The cam belts will have to come off to remove the casing.

While facing the front of the engine I assume a clockwise rotation of the crank pulley.....am I correct?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
>>Should I turn the en

>>Should I turn the engine over, to align the cam marks before I start taking the crank pulley, and water casing, off?<<

Sure, line everything up to keep it simple and easy as possible..

Yes facing the engine pulley it turns clockwise.

Best, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Henry....the bolt securing the

Henry....the bolt securing the crank pulley is something like 35mm or so. I was not able to find a socket to fit and ended up slightly enlarging a 1-5/16 socket to work. You will probably need an impact to loosen it, or use my method of a LARGE breaker bar and a hammer. You can use the flywheel marks to get to top dead center, and then lock things into place. An idea that I had but did not try was to make a bracket that would bolt onto the bell housing where the flywheel inspection plate goes, that would engage the flywheel teeth and hold the engine at top dead center. But it's just an idea, not really necessary. You will have to lock the cams, and I'm sure you've done your research on the various methods. At the rate your progressing your going to blow by me in a few days as I only do a few hours a week on the car. I mostly just stare at all of "it" now that winter is just around the corner.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jeff: Initially I thought thi

Jeff: Initially I thought this would be an all Winter project.......it still may be. However, I would like to get as much done as quickly as possible. That way I don't have all these "systems" torn apart at one time......one system at a time. I feel that if I wait too long, I will forget how some of the things go back together!!!!!!..EVEN with pictures!
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jeff: When I removed my FD of

Jeff: When I removed my FD off the air sensor, I found that the corrosion has pitted the O-ring on one side.......that facing the air sensor....I recommend you replace yours also....cheap insurance against an air leak. I will lightly sand the corrosion off the air sensor in this area. It is very simple...just remove the 3 screws and it comes apart. There is nothing that can become out of alignment.

If you do so, then let me know first, so I can get the measurement I would like.

Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Henry: Are the 3 screws the o

Henry: Are the 3 screws the ones visible looking at the top of the fuel dist.?

I would like to remove them from the air sensor housings.....what measurement do you need? Let me know, I'll find other things to do in the meantime until I hear from you.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Jeff: Yes, there are 3 torx s

Jeff: Yes, there are 3 torx screws......they are not on very tight at all. I will send a picture of the part I would like measured. Do will need a depth gauge.

Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Jeff: Here is a pic. I need

Jeff: Here is a pic. I need the depth of the twin slotted nut (holding the plunger), from the edge of the wall that it inserts to. Measure to the "flat" part of the nut. A depth from the air flow sensor base down to the rod that moves the plunger would also be helpful......in the rest positions. You may want to keep these figures for yourself, for future reference.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Henry: So removing the fuel d

Henry: So removing the fuel distributors will not change any "settings" correct? Simply remove the screws and off it comes? I'm a bit concerned as the air sensor pivot arm and distributor plunger clearance can affect the air/fuel mixture. I just need to be clear that removing and replacing the distributors will not affect air/fuel ratio. I'll get the measurements tomorrow at work, as I don't have a depth gage at home.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Jeff: That is right. In the

Jeff: That is right. In the rest position the air flow sensor "plunger push" arm rests BELOW the plunger, not even touching it. The plunger justs rests in it's own stop within the FD....this stop is adjusted by the double slotted screw....it has to be in the right position. The air flow sensor plate won't even move when you remove the FD. The AF sensor is stopped by a pin within the AF housing.

That is the difference between the "rest" and "basic" positions.....check your new Bosch service manual. The rest position is that with the engine off, as you have it on the table. When you move the sensor plate down you will "feel" a touch.....this is the basic position, where the AF meter lever just touches the plunger. These are 2 VERY important measurements....and must be EXACT!!!!! The basic position is determined by how much the plunger protrudes downward.....regulated by the double slotted screw. Does this make sense?

The AF plate measurement is in the rest position. It is adjusted by punching on the pin. One then moves it downward to where it touches the plunger, and sees if the edge is where it should be. If not, then one adjusts the double slotted screw I am referring to. The AF mixture screw is for fine adjustments with a CO meter.

Remember when you told me that the "touch" was about 3/16 inch, while you moved the sensor plate? This was the distance between the rest and basic positions. That "touch" was when the plunger arm of the AF sensor just touched the FD plunger.

You and I will be experts on this in no time!!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay Henry, I've removed t

Okay Henry, I've removed the left side fuel dist. from the air sensor housing. Simply used a flat blade screwdriver, no torx head fasteners (?). Mine looks good with no corrosion or damage to the o-ring. I have contacted importtec to ask about the copper washers for the banjo fittings on the dist. but no reply as yet. I would imagine they have them, just need to get the bosch part number for them. I am going to remove each fuel line and polish them up a bit. Now I can also refinish the air sensor housings too. At this rate of disassembly on my TR, theoretically I could move the car from the shop into the house through a 24" by 36" window! I never thought in my wildest nightmares that I would tear apart a Ferrari like this. I'll get you those measurements on my lunch break tomorrow.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Jeff: Thanks a lot.....I real

Jeff: Thanks a lot.....I really need those measurements, to complete this project.

Post a picture of the refurbished FDs.

I will be ordering from Rutlands the things I need, tomorrow.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi Henry: I was not able to u

Hi Henry: I was not able to use a depth gage on the slotted nut because the gage had too big a diameter of the tip to fit between the Fuel Dist. Plunger and the edge of the rim. So I had to use a set of micrometers, the distance is somewhere around .016" to .019". The distance from the top of the air sensor housing to the roller contact for the plunger is .835". I hope this info. helps you out. Feel free to let me know if you need anything more.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Jeff: Thanks so much!

I ju


Jeff: Thanks so much!

I just ordered a bunch of parts from Rutlands. We started talking about the FD, etc. They have these in stock....rebuilt. Ted was nice enough to get me the same measurements, off these units.....he will compare several. I should get them tomorrow. I will post these so you and I both will know what these should be...hopefully, yours are the same. One Bosch book states that these are the two MOST important measurements on the FI system. If either is wrong, then every other adjustment will be wrong also!!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
BTW Jeff: I once mentioned th

BTW Jeff: I once mentioned that my throttle shaft "end arms" where not parallel, as stated in the WSM. After some thought, it turns out the WSM is either wrong, or referring to something else. It turns out that the FDs are offset, therefore one of the arms reached in more, relative to the other arm. Hence, they can NOT be parallel!!!!!
 
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