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Discussion Starter #1
Well........what do I do with

Well........what do I do with this?????? Do I disassemble it, clean it, and paint it, or just leave it alone? The car ran fine with this in it, but it is filthy!!!!!!

It seems a shame to clean and paint the engine, and not do the same to this.

Any thoughts?

 
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Discussion Starter #2
Henry,

I thouroghly clean e


Henry,

I thouroghly clean everything with spray Brake Clean and shop towels and anything simular can be used. I would be very careful to avoid taking anything apart that dirt could get into while cleaning (like FD & FD Lines).
 
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Discussion Starter #3
You and I are on the same page

You and I are on the same page Henry...I removed my system "whole" too. It's going to be a tedious job getting this system looking good again, without disassembly or screwing something up.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Kind of makes one want to seri

Kind of makes one want to seriously consider a Pulsed Injection System........
 
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Discussion Starter #5
>>Kind of makes one wa

>>Kind of makes one want to seriously consider a Pulsed Injection System........<<

Well.....that and a redesigned intake runner system is all that gave the 512TR's 50 more ponies...{
}
 
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Discussion Starter #6
JRV: If I should remove the f

JRV: If I should remove the fuel lines, from the distributor......to individually clean the surface rust, must I use new gaskets. If so, where can I get them, without paying $4 each to the dealer.

BTW: I already took off the throttle bodies, and cleaned them......I have a solvent tank......BIG difference! I left all the screws intact. I will rince them again in "clean" solvent prior to assembly.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Henry, just be careful, the po

Henry, just be careful, the ports and orifices are tiny and any ingress of dirt could cause a perplexing problem later down the road.

I always use new sealing rings...both Wurth & Winzer and maybe places like Napa and certianly all MB, Porsche, VW parts suppliers sell the SR's in quantity. I think general cost for 25-50-100 qty. is in the 0.25c-0.35c ea. range.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
OK, I'm using a lot of the

OK, I'm using a lot of these threads to learn and keep my hobby of learning cars alive...so here's a stupid question.

What's an FD or FD line? (Mentioned in JR's initial response)

I can guess but won't risk sounding like a moron, so I'll just cheat and ask.

Cheers
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I removed, and cleaned, the ba

I removed, and cleaned, the base cover......and placed the top portion upside down on the bench, so the weight doesn't push on the air flow valve. So far, I haven't gotten to the "tiny" ports, yet......it seems that they are in the distributor body itself. The air and fuel channels appear to be completely separate. I have NO intention of taking the fuel distributor apart....NONE at all.

I will take the distributors off, as shown in the manual.

The gaskets are all intact.....no cracks. Should I use a sealer when assemblying them?

It appears that ALL the grime is coming from the oil vapor bypass system. Are there any alternatives?
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Taek: FD means fuel distribut

Taek: FD means fuel distributor, and the FD lines that come off it, and go the individual injectors.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
>>Should I use a seale

>>Should I use a sealer when assemblying them?<<

Henry,

I use sealer, permatex no.2? (the brown goop), reason is the Factory had the distinct advantage of using perfectly flat, non heat cyclced or stressed 'brand new parts', we unfortunately don't have that advantage.. And history has proven that not all heat cycled, stressed parts stay perfectly flat forever.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Jeff: The fact that JRV uses

Jeff: The fact that JRV uses sealer, due to "used stressed" parts, convinces me that I am doing the right thing by taking the FI apart.

Watch out for the two bolts underneath......must turn the FI unit upside down to see them.

The tricky part was removing the 4mm Allen head screws.......soak them first in degreaser, then clean them out. That way the Allen wrench will go further into the hole. I almost stripped one due to the debris.

Also, soak, clean and loosen the air/fuel mixture screws. These are VERY important should you want to adjust the A/F ratio later on. NOW is the time to make sure these can be removed when necessary. Use the widest screw driver that will fit into the opening.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Henry & JRV: I must admit

Henry & JRV: I must admit I'm scared to death to mess with this mass of spagetti and meatballs! I'm thinking when I have a free day with nothing to do (yeah..right!) I may just sit down with various brushes and cleaners and try to nit-pick everything clean again. I really don't want to disassemble any part of this system. Will spraying solvent down into the throttle plate area cause any problems? I guess I should at least remove that item from the FD's before cleaning.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I just removed, and cleaned th

I just removed, and cleaned the airflow meter from the FD.......this is starting to look NEW!!! I will clean the FD (body only) with the lines attached (will leave the fuel lines out of the solvent), and re-assemble everything......I've gone as far as I want to. I will leave the lines attached to the FD and NOT open it. I feel that I went far enough....I DON'T want to make this a restoration project.....any more is trouble.

Jeff: The FI system has fuel in only the lines and FD.......the rest just pass air, and oily by-pass vapors. The parts that come apart are only air passages, so why the fear? If you decide not to do this, then, at least, make sure that the A/F mixture aperture (the A/F mixture screws mentioned above) is accessable.....this is the 3mm screw. I am not referring to the adjusting screws found on the base of the unit. These where left undisturbed when I took it apart for cleaning......they don't turn by themselves.

JRV: On re-assembly I will use silicone sealer on the air components of the FI system.....couldn't find #2. The auto parts guy recommended a #1 (dries hard) for the paper gaskets that join the runners to the heads. This is the only sealer, he states, that is resistant to gasoline....and the package states so. What do you think?

He also stated that NO sealer should be used when assemblying parts with o-rings between them.....mixing O-rings with sealer is asking for a leak......just oil them. Yet people recommended using sealer on the O-rings of the bell housing. Your thoughts?
 
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Discussion Starter #15
JRV: Does it make sense to re

JRV: Does it make sense to replace the fuel pressure regulators. Mine work, but corroded on the outside. They seem to be hard to get to once everything is assembled. I would guess that they are the original ones. Sort of like replacing the thermostats, as long as one has the engine out? What do you think?
 
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Discussion Starter #16
If they are working fine then

If they are working fine then IMHO just leave them be. You know the old saying...If it ain't broke..don't fix it!!
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Tom: You are right.....I will

Tom: You are right.....I will just save my money for the things that DO break.

Can I assume that you would NOT replace the thermostats, in a TR major service, if they work?
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I do repalce the t-stats with

I do repalce the t-stats with every major I do. Coolant can come a metal eating acid, after a long period of time in a cooling system. This will affect anything that is metal or aluminum. Plus you are insureing that with the sudden change to new coolant your t-state won't hang up open or get stuck closed. when dealing with something as finicky as CIS injection components, you are best just to leave well enough alone as these items are not a wear item. They do fail but not with the same regularity of thermostats. Plus the t-stats on the TR are a pain in the but to change while the engine is in the car!! I just did one last week.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Henry: You make it seem so ea

Henry: You make it seem so easy, how can I NOT disassemble and clean the darn FDs now? If you get time, would you mind posting a pic?

Tom: What's a rough cost of the t-stats and gasket? Your advice makes sense to me about changing them.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Jeff: Here is pic of the &#34

Jeff: Here is pic of the "clean" FI system....left side, with the base for both sides. There was an electrical switch on the FD (is this the control switch?), but removing it exposed the internals of the FD. So I put the switch back and just bruched solvent over the FD......didn't want to get solvent into the FD.

BTW: I don't think the thermostats are cheap.....I will test them in water, and if OK, then I will re-use them. I will take my chances! Besides, next time will be a BREEZE!!!!
 
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