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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With flywheel at TDC, all 4 ca

With flywheel at TDC, all 4 cams align, according to the marks on the cams and caps. I removed the valve covers, belts, and tensioners. I free spun the tensioners and they rotated very freely, with no leaks, binding or other movement......should I still go ahead and replace these?

I did remove the cam sprockets, to replace leaky cam seals.

It seems that this is when one fights with oneself about the problems of "shouldn't I replace this now...what if it breaks.....especially since the engine is now out?" From what I see one can replace a LOT of "what if" parts.

Due to the "spirited" driving a Ferrari receives, I can reluctantly agree that the belts don't last much over 30K miles and should be changed......I believe the manual states 52.5K miles Let's not argue this point any more..please!!!!!

We all know that Ferrari makes 'inferior' rubber seals. But does this carry on to items such as bearings, thermostats, etc......items that EVERY car has, and not unique to Ferrari.

Being rather a perfectionist, this is when I run into spending more than necessary. I am thinking.....in just a few years I will be doing this all over again, and whether the belts need it or not, SOME seals that require engine removal will!!!!

Just voicing my opinion!!!!! Heck, and I just started the major!!!hahaha

Jeff: Are you going through this also?
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hi Henry: Yeah...the "wha

Hi Henry: Yeah...the "what ifs" can get real expensive, and it's hard to know where to draw the line. My engine was only really leaking oil out the crank front main seal. The bottom of the cam covers were always slightly "damp" but no drips. The cam seals on my car look very good so I left those alone. I did replace the tensioner bearings because it looked like the passenger's side bearing was the original one while the other side was a newer one. So I bought new SKF bearings from "maseratisource" on ebay for a great price. I was quoted a price of something like $140 a peice for the bearings from a well known supplier, but bought both for $108 on ebay. I've heard that a tensioner bearing can go bad and cause the belt to break, so I'd consider replacing them for peace of mind. I'm still not sure about removing my fuel dist. lines....decisions...decisions!
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Morning Gents,

Glad to see


Morning Gents,

Glad to see you guys are having fun...
A couple of thoughts, if you will:

I always replace the tensioner bearings when I'm doing a belt service, even if they feel "good". Athough I've never seen a belt fail, I have come across seized, near seized tensions. Sorry to sad, but replacement is very cheap insurance.

As to the sealing rings on the FD, there are ultra-common copper washers. I can't rememer the place that sells them on-line, but there maybe 2-3 cents each in a quantity of 100...Memory serves me that there's a washer on top of, and beneath each banjo fitting at the FD.

Got a break in the weather this morning...just got back from a wild ride in the BB. Nothing like a Ferrari in the Fall!

Regards,
David
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Guys,

Do yourselves A BIG F


Guys,

Do yourselves A BIG FAVOR and replace every oil seal, hose and bearing you can while the engine is out and everything is accesible.

The purpose of the Engine Out Major is to enable full servicing and turn the clock back to zero.

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I, as David, just got back fro

I, as David, just got back from my morning Boxer cruise.......now back to the TR!!!!

Jeff: If I could buy those gaskets as David suggested, 100 at a time, I would buy them......If you find a source please let me know. If I saw a "slightly damp" seal, I would replace it. Remember, this has to last for the next 5 years.....and I don't think a slightly damp seal will.

JRV: I will do as you suggest....first give me your credit card number, OK? hahaha!!!!!!

I removed the belts, and now want to re-install them.....only to learn how to do it before I mess up the new belts. I pushed in the tensioner, and tightened the bolt, to keep it in. Just can't seem to get the belt back on.......any tricks????
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
To re-install the belt/belts r

To re-install the belt/belts requires the tensioner fully in & tightened as mentioned and the belt on the first gear with the teeth positioned in such a way as to allow all slack to be forwarded to second gear and then catching the very edge of the belt on the edge of the gear aligned with the grooves, then by tilting the belt down on the outer edge, push the belt up and onto the gear. Yes it very likely will take some practice to get the hang of this operation.

*Note that the first few attempts will result in the timing marks moving out of position either putting the belt on or when the tensioner is released....this is normal until one can anticipate the range of movement caused by taking out the slack towards the second gear and then the opposite movement when releasing tensioner...with some practice it should all become clear.

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Henry: You may recall I "

Henry: You may recall I "locked" my cams into place prior to removing the old belts. I also marked the cam and crank sprockets, and made a corresponding mark on the old belts. I then released the tension and removed the old belts. Then I transfered the marks I'd made on the old belts to the new ones. Then putting the new belts on I lined up the marks on the belts and sprockets. I also used binder clips to keep the belt engaged onto the teeth around the perimeter of the cam sprckets and not let them slacken as I routed it around the tensioner bearing and stuff. You gotta be inventive when you only have one set of hands at times. It was a very straight forward process. Everything lined up perfectly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got the belts back on and meas

Got the belts back on and measured the intake, and exhaust clearances. One intake and 4 exhaust valves are too tight.

I saw a shim "set" by Newco with 29mm diameter shims. Is this the one to get?....other source for a set? I would like a set because of the TR and Boxer taking the same(?) shims.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey guys: You've got the

Hey guys: You've got the engine out...just replace everything!! It's very cheap insurance...and very accessable right now. It will only take a little extra time and a few bucks...but look at all you are learning and all the labor $$ you are saving. When I did mine it took me about a month to get everything done...working an hour or two a day.

The next major I had done was done at Scottsdale Ferrari (I thought that I would treat myself to a 'dealer' service). They neglected the H20 pump among other things (charged me for the seal/bearings on the pump) and it failed within 100 miles of the service. They ducked and dodged and I ended up spending $13K fixing their screw up. Moral...do your own...do it right and stay away from Scottsdale Ferrari
 
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