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·Of interest is my experience w
Of interest is my experience with the water pump. Prior to the major, the water pump worked fine with no leaks. I just decided to take it apart, for a general inspection. What I found was this: The inner-most seal, was dry and very hard, while the outer seal was covered with a white corrosive material. This material was due to the corrosion, started by the dissimilar matals......steel on the lip of the seal, and the aluminum casing it inserted into. The corrosion was accelerated by the coolant passing through the area. I used 120 grit sand paper to clean it off the front cover housing, prior to installing the new seal. I also doubt that the inner rubber seal would have lasted much longer.
I am glad I decided to inspect this, since, others have stated that they would not touch the water pump during a major, if it did not leak. I would recommend checking it at EVERY major.
Another problem was with a broken 10mm stud, that screwed into the engine block. This is one of the studs that go from the block into the trans case......which I had to separate, in order to remove the front engine cover. I was unable to get a box wrench around it, and ended up stripping the nut while trying an open ended wrench. I had to use a die grinder to grind off the nut, and some of the stud.
The engine block was sitting on a table, with about 1/2 inch of the stud protruding from the block. I drilled out a generic nut to slip over the end of the stud, then welded the nut to the stud. I used a socket and ratchet wrench.....VERY tight. I then used a 3 foot extension bar, and the stud started to come out, but it was getting harder. It finally broke, right at the block surface. I can't believe how hard the aluminum casing held that stud!!!!!!!
Using a die grinder, I hollowed out a small depression, trying to be in the center of the stud. I then proceeded to drill out the stud, with various bits.......going from smaller to larger. Finally I had the stud out, and ended up drilling, and inserting a Heli-Coil.
The hard part was doing this from the bottom, since I couldn't turn over the engine block, with heads. I lifted one side of the engine, off the table to get at this problem.
The cams are off on one side of the engine, since I am awaiting arrival of new shim buckets. So I proceeded to do the valve adjustment on the other side, with old timing belt in place. I noticed that ALL of the exhaust valves where 0.05mm too narrow, while all the intakes where fine. It seems that the exhaust valves wear faster......sounds normal, considering the heat involved.
My next step is to get the new shim buckets, and adjust the valves on that side.
So, I am moving along........sorry I can't show you some nice pictures, as Jeff has.
Of interest is my experience with the water pump. Prior to the major, the water pump worked fine with no leaks. I just decided to take it apart, for a general inspection. What I found was this: The inner-most seal, was dry and very hard, while the outer seal was covered with a white corrosive material. This material was due to the corrosion, started by the dissimilar matals......steel on the lip of the seal, and the aluminum casing it inserted into. The corrosion was accelerated by the coolant passing through the area. I used 120 grit sand paper to clean it off the front cover housing, prior to installing the new seal. I also doubt that the inner rubber seal would have lasted much longer.
I am glad I decided to inspect this, since, others have stated that they would not touch the water pump during a major, if it did not leak. I would recommend checking it at EVERY major.
Another problem was with a broken 10mm stud, that screwed into the engine block. This is one of the studs that go from the block into the trans case......which I had to separate, in order to remove the front engine cover. I was unable to get a box wrench around it, and ended up stripping the nut while trying an open ended wrench. I had to use a die grinder to grind off the nut, and some of the stud.
The engine block was sitting on a table, with about 1/2 inch of the stud protruding from the block. I drilled out a generic nut to slip over the end of the stud, then welded the nut to the stud. I used a socket and ratchet wrench.....VERY tight. I then used a 3 foot extension bar, and the stud started to come out, but it was getting harder. It finally broke, right at the block surface. I can't believe how hard the aluminum casing held that stud!!!!!!!
Using a die grinder, I hollowed out a small depression, trying to be in the center of the stud. I then proceeded to drill out the stud, with various bits.......going from smaller to larger. Finally I had the stud out, and ended up drilling, and inserting a Heli-Coil.
The hard part was doing this from the bottom, since I couldn't turn over the engine block, with heads. I lifted one side of the engine, off the table to get at this problem.
The cams are off on one side of the engine, since I am awaiting arrival of new shim buckets. So I proceeded to do the valve adjustment on the other side, with old timing belt in place. I noticed that ALL of the exhaust valves where 0.05mm too narrow, while all the intakes where fine. It seems that the exhaust valves wear faster......sounds normal, considering the heat involved.
My next step is to get the new shim buckets, and adjust the valves on that side.
So, I am moving along........sorry I can't show you some nice pictures, as Jeff has.
