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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have removed the front engin

I have removed the front engine cover, and disassembled the water pump, up to the sprocket.

You will have to refer to Tav. 26, of the 1990 TR parts manual.

I removed the e-clip, #10, and pushed out the bearing.......out flew the bearing, #9, and the spring washer, #11. Since they just popped out, I thought that the spring washer was flat, per the diagram. In fact, it is concave (convex...depending on the view)....both edges are parallel, but NOT in the same plane.

My question is: Which side goes against the bearing #9? Is it the concave, or the convex side? Note: The convex side has the smaller diameter (ID of the spring washer) touching the bearing, while the concave side (OD of the spring washer) has the larger diameter touching the bearing.

I have the service manual, with a cut-out drawing, but it also shows the spring washer as being flat.

Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Henry,

post the picture fro


Henry,

post the picture from the parts book...it shouldn't be to hard to decipher from there.

Regards, JRV
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It 99% of the time does not ma

It 99% of the time does not matter. The spring washer is most likely to prevent the bearing from sloshing around axially between the clips. Either way you fase the spring it does not interefre with the bearing radial movement so it does not matter. If you have it one way the inner race hits the inner spring clip. The other way the outter race hits the outter part of the spring clip.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Henry,

The larger area of t


Henry,

The larger area of the spring washer rides against the outer section of the bearing...That's how the Factory orginally assembled the pumps.

Picture: "circlip" + "(" + bearing.....where "(" is the orienation of the spring washer

Regards,
David
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
David: Thanks. Could you ans

David: Thanks. Could you answer the question I had posted for you in the studs and nuts thread? It refers to using bolts, instead of studs and nuts, beneath the front engine cover.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Jeff: DO NOT rebuild your wat

Jeff: DO NOT rebuild your water pump yet, till you hear further from me. I started my water pump rebuild so I must finish. I ordered a new seal, and they sent the wrong one. There are 2 seals......one early version, and one later. They sent the later version, and I needed the earlier one. I called them to let them know....they will get the other seal. This was yesterday.

This afternoon, I receive a voice mail to call Rutlands.....I will call them tomorrow. I have a feeling that they will tell me of an "upgrade" water pump, which I will now have to buy, because the old seals are NOT available.....just a gut instinct!!!!!!!!

I believe the replacement to cost about $800. So hold off till I talk with them.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Henryk,

Before you get then


Henryk,

Before you get then new pump send your old pump to superior pump in arizona. They used to be superior pump gardena claifornia and if you do a 3105551212 they may be able to get you the forwarding #. I got parts from the to rebuild the 800.00 Maserati waterpump for 13 dollars!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bob: It is not like the pump

Bob: It is not like the pump is a separate unit. The "guts" of the pump are internal.....inside the front engine cover, attached to the front of the engine block. I wouldn't know what to send. I need the "old" version seals.

Is the 3105551212 a phone number? If so, I would call them and see what they say.

Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jeff: I just heard back from

Jeff: I just heard back from Rutland's.......There is NO update water pump. Therefore, the parts are available for either version.

Good news.
 
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